# 1/8 mile

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187
**Category:** NYSpeed Automotive
**Created:** [July 10, 2007, 8:53pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187 "2007-07-10T20:53:24Z")
**Posts on this page:** 11
**Page:** 2

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### Author: ![Inn-Tune](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/inn-tune/32/7588_2.png) [@Inn-Tune](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Inn-Tune)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 7:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/21 "2007-07-11T07:41:53Z")

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[quote=“neonglh,post:20,topic:32187"”]

Even with slicks, I don’t think a stock STi has enough power to cut a 1.4.

[/quote]

AMS and Buschur’s 8 second Evos cut 1.4s on slicks. My friend’s galant cuts 1.4’s and he hasn’t run a 9 yet, but he trapped 149 so far. It takes a ton of power to cut a 1.4 in a 2500+ lb awd car.

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### Author: ![Firehawk853](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/firehawk853/32/7607_2.png) [@Firehawk853](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Firehawk853)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 8:19am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/22 "2007-07-11T08:19:32Z")

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RT means nothing unless your trying to race the dude next to you. Focus on the 60ft time and try to improve there first 🙂

time doesn’t start til you cross the start line.

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### Author: ![Shifty](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/shifty/32/4959_2.png) [@Shifty](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Shifty)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 8:26am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/23 "2007-07-11T08:26:27Z")

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Depending on your 60ft… your 8.6’s would might be a high 13’s  
(if that…there would be alot of varibles involved)

other than that 8.6’s…mmmm ok.

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### Author: ![rdandy5875](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/rdandy5875/32/7511_2.png) [@rdandy5875](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/rdandy5875)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 9:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/24 "2007-07-11T09:28:56Z")

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OK help a noob time. I’ve never drag raced, but with that reaction time, does that mean he went .663 seconds after the green light, or .163 seconds?

What is the “base” that bracketracer was talking about? Why would they start with .5 seconds?

TY

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### Author: ![bracketracer](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bracketracer/32/15592_2.png) [@bracketracer](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bracketracer)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 9:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/25 "2007-07-11T09:42:57Z")

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.663 and .163 could be the exact same reaction time depending on the particular track’s timing setup.

On a sportsman tree, each amber (3 of them) lights up exactly .500 seconds apart, on a pro tree, all ambers light up, then green exactly .400 seconds after.  
We’ll stick with the sportsman tree, since that’s what most people are used to. Some tracks use the last amber as their base time to start the timer, so a perfect reaction time would be a .500. Most nowadays are starting with .000 to keep things less confusing for n00bs and others.

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### Author: ![rdandy5875](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/rdandy5875/32/7511_2.png) [@rdandy5875](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/rdandy5875)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 9:46am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/26 "2007-07-11T09:46:09Z")

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thanks

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### Author: ![woody](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/woody/32/7191_2.png) [@woody](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/woody)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 2:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/27 "2007-07-11T14:42:06Z")

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:gotme:

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### Author: ![Justin](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/justin/32/7459_2.png) [@Justin](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Justin)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 7:27pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/28 "2007-07-11T19:27:45Z")

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FWIW your times are identical to mine for the most part.

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### Author: ![13005TEDGP](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/1/edb3f5/32.png) [@13005TEDGP](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/13005TEDGP)
#### Post date: [July 11, 2007, 9:03pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/29 "2007-07-11T21:03:42Z")

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Were you at NYI the opening day? I got a video of my car lined up with a dark blue Audi :gotme: just curious.

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### Author: ![dpm90iroc](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dpm90iroc/32/4966_2.png) [@dpm90iroc](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/dpm90iroc)
#### Post date: [July 12, 2007, 3:50am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/30 "2007-07-12T03:50:52Z")

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Very Good ET for that MPH, MPH is an indication of how much hp ur making. A good ET is predicated on a good 60’. U will see ur best 60’ by shallow staging(just turning on the bottom stage bulb), this will slow down ur reaction time. ur et starts when u cross a beam 14" from where ur staged, by shallow staging u r gaining momentum b/4 u trip the et clocks.  
W/the old incandescent bulbs, good racers could adjust their reaction times by leaving when a bulb was coming on or off, can’t do that w/LED’s-they’re either on or off.  
I shallow stage during tt’s for best et’s, if my reaction times r slow, I will move an inch or 2 forward during eliminations to “Cut a Light”(this will slow ur 60’ & et slightly)

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### Author: ![neonglh](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/neonglh/32/4951_2.png) [@neonglh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/neonglh)
#### Post date: [July 12, 2007, 5:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/1-8-mile/32187/31 "2007-07-12T05:30:37Z")

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With my mods, going 12.6 @ 108 in the 1/4, I went 8.108 @ 86 in the 1/8th, just for what its worth.

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