# 110 MIGs? **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [January 11, 2016, 5:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482 "2016-01-11T05:56:19Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 5:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/1 "2016-01-11T05:56:19Z")
Any suggestions currently looking at a few options. Hobart 140 Eastwood 135 Lincoln 140 Mostly for sheet metal and random bs at some point @cougarspeed will talk me into getting into a nice TIG setup but in the mean time need something to screw with for this Camaro build. ---
**Author:** ![POOPRA](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/poopra/32/7188_2.png) [@POOPRA](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/POOPRA)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 6:22am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/2 "2016-01-11T06:22:54Z")
I have had good luck with my Hobart Handler 140, and you can pick them up for a decent price at Tractor Supply. ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 6:26am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/3 "2016-01-11T06:26:35Z")
I learned how to weld with a Millermatic machine that was awesome. Mine was a 220v model, but looks like they do have a model that will run off a 110v. Millermatic 125. Mine always ran well for me and had all the adjustments and settings needed for working on automotive stuff. Could run Argon tank or flux-cored wire. ---
**Author:** ![tpgsr](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tpgsr/32/7374_2.png) [@tpgsr](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/tpgsr)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 6:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/4 "2016-01-11T06:38:42Z")
Can’t I just come drop a 240V line in and you can start proper? ---
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 6:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/5 "2016-01-11T06:47:35Z")
> [@tpgsr](#): > > Can’t I just come drop a 240V line in and you can start proper? That has nothing to do with this honestly. I don’t need an expensive MIG as what I will be doing is limited to pretty much sheet metal and small projects, I want something portable 110 helps with that, and I already have access to 240v lines at the shop space I rent. ---
**Author:** ![LUC1F3R](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/luc1f3r/32/7299_2.png) [@LUC1F3R](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LUC1F3R)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 7:15am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/6 "2016-01-11T07:15:03Z")
I dont think you can go wrong when it comes to cheap migs nowadays. ive been using a cheap craftsman for small mild and ss projects around the house for years with no issues. ---
**Author:** ![LXIFLYBY](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lxiflyby/32/7399_2.png) [@LXIFLYBY](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LXIFLYBY)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 8:20am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/7 "2016-01-11T08:20:28Z")
I have a Hobart 140, using C25 gas and the smaller wire I’ve had great results with it as long as you have it set up right and don’t use extension cords etc. FWIW Hobart and miller are made by the same company. You probably couldn’t go wrong with a Hobart/Lincoln/Miller unit. ---
**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 8:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/8 "2016-01-11T08:33:28Z")
I’d take the eastwood right out of the list. and to be honest, there’s one thing I dislike about both the hobart and the lincoln 140’s…the position switches for the heat ranges. for sheet metal, you’ll often find that you’ll either be too hot and have to move fast to compensate, or you’ll be too cold and have to preheat to compensate or start too-hot on purpose and switch down a notch. I’ve been using a “Real Gear” from praxair that has a dial from 1-10 and prefer it over my lincoln 140 for thin material. that said, between the hobart and the lincoln, I’d grab whatever is cheaper…both will be pretty equal in capability and quality. Edit: for a little more money, I’d consider bumping up to the lincoln 180 K3018-2 That way it’s possible to use on both 110/220, and it has far more heat range options…and still pretty portable. ---
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 9:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/9 "2016-01-11T09:42:18Z")
> [@focusinprogress](#): > > I’d take the eastwood right out of the list. > > and to be honest, there’s one thing I dislike about both the hobart and the lincoln 140’s…the position switches for the heat ranges. > > for sheet metal, you’ll often find that you’ll either be too hot and have to move fast to compensate, or you’ll be too cold and have to preheat to compensate or start too-hot on purpose and switch down a notch. > > I’ve been using a “Real Gear” from praxair that has a dial from 1-10 and prefer it over my lincoln 140 for thin material. > > that said, between the hobart and the lincoln, I’d grab whatever is cheaper…both will be pretty equal in capability and quality. > > Edit: > > for a little more money, I’d consider bumping up to the lincoln 180 K3018-2 > That way it’s possible to use on both 110/220, and it has far more heat range options…and still pretty portable. It’s weird you don’t Eastwood when its the one that is infinitely selectable for heat… That Lincoln 180 is nice but don’t need a $800-900 MIG I will probably invest in a nice TIG at some point if I keep screwing with car stuff. is it worth looking into the real gear? ---
**Author:** ![travisn](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/travisn/32/5046_2.png) [@travisn](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/travisn)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 9:50am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/10 "2016-01-11T09:50:04Z")
Get a miller with “auto-set”. The automatic setting works wonderfully. ---
**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 10:02am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/11 "2016-01-11T10:02:26Z")
> [@LZ](#): > > It’s weird you don’t Eastwood when its the one that is infinitely selectable for heat… > > That Lincoln 180 is nice but don’t need a $800-900 MIG I will probably invest in a nice TIG at some point if I keep screwing with car stuff. > > is it worth looking into the real gear? the real gear was $300 out the door when checko got it. it’s a pretty decent machine for the price…the eastwood you have a good chance of arriving damaged and if it breaks down you’ll be waiting on parts for 3wks. it has a 3yr warranty but being without a welder for a month + isn’t really appealing to me. apparently, miller parts fit the real gear…a miller spool gun is compatible when we looked into possibly grabbing one for small aluminum stuff. ---
**Author:** ![OriginalSterm](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/originalsterm/32/4964_2.png) [@OriginalSterm](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/OriginalSterm)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 10:10am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/12 "2016-01-11T10:10:27Z")
Anyone know anything about a Snap-On FM-140A? I bought one used off of Craigslist and I cannot for the life of me figure out why is will only flash a tiny spark and then nothing. ---
**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 11:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/13 "2016-01-11T11:34:55Z")
> [@OriginalSterm](#): > > Anyone know anything about a Snap-On FM-140A? I bought one used off of Craigslist and I cannot for the life of me figure out why is will only flash a tiny spark and then nothing. have you checked to make sure the feeder is working properly? if the wire speed is too slow it will do as you say, or if the feeder doesn’t have enough tension on the wire to push it…or if the feeder just plain isn’t working. ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 11:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/14 "2016-01-11T11:38:16Z")
> [@focusinprogress](#): > > have you checked to make sure the feeder is working properly? if the wire speed is too slow it will do as you say, or if the feeder doesn’t have enough tension on the wire to push it…or if the feeder just plain isn’t working. Right, without touching it to anything metal, you should be able to hold the trigger and have it constantly feed wire out. If wire isn’t coming out as you’re holding down the trigger than something is wrong there. If wire is coming out, but it’s not welding, then you should check that you’re clamped wire is secure and has a good solid connection. ---
**Author:** ![OriginalSterm](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/originalsterm/32/4964_2.png) [@OriginalSterm](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/OriginalSterm)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 12:03pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/15 "2016-01-11T12:03:25Z")
Wire feeds just fine, I’ve checked the ground clamp for continuity but that doesn’t tell me the quality of the connection. I’ll check that next… ---
**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 1:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/16 "2016-01-11T13:23:22Z")
we should have a weld-meet lol. Someone teach me TIG! ---
**Author:** ![OriginalSterm](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/originalsterm/32/4964_2.png) [@OriginalSterm](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/OriginalSterm)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 1:25pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/17 "2016-01-11T13:25:39Z")
I’d LOVE for someone to teach me how to weld. ---
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 1:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/18 "2016-01-11T13:47:59Z")
> [@focusinprogress](#): > > we should have a weld-meet lol. Someone teach me TIG! I would be in that for that 🙂 I’m mostly getting a MIG for mini tubs, filling some sheet metal holes, and various other things I will have someone else TIG in the cage. ---
**Author:** ![LXIFLYBY](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lxiflyby/32/7399_2.png) [@LXIFLYBY](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LXIFLYBY)\ **Post date:** [January 11, 2016, 3:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/19 "2016-01-11T15:11:22Z")
Tig is def where it’s at for aluminum ---
**Author:** ![lorge1989](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lorge1989/32/6153_2.png) [@lorge1989](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/lorge1989)\ **Post date:** [January 12, 2016, 5:22am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482/20 "2016-01-12T05:22:56Z")
I have a Hobart 140, have run a lot of wire with it and it never skips a beat. IMO the infinitely selectable heat range is not important when you only have 110 to work with. 5 settings with that amount of power is plenty of adjustability. [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/110-migs/273482.md?page=2)