# 350 or 383 sbc **URL:** \ **Category:** PittSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [February 5, 2007, 8:58pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/350-or-383-sbc/187866 "2007-02-05T20:58:46Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 53
**Author:** ![JackdUp](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/jackdup/32/6015_2.png) [@JackdUp](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JackdUp)\ **Post date:** [February 6, 2007, 4:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/350-or-383-sbc/187866/53 "2007-02-06T16:45:34Z")
> [@funny take on song](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/funny-take-on-song/27677/7): > > But the one problem i see with GM’s 383’s is that they use a 3.80 inch stroke…forged crank so its strong but it also costs near 1100 bucks… thats why that crate motor is so expensive. it has extra 1000 bucks in a crank that you dont need. you can get a forged crank for 600-700 bucks that will handle as much power, and use common sized pistons and rods designed for a 3.75 inch stroke instead of the 3.80. but the motor doesnt have forged rods or pistons…so those will go way before the crank ever does. i always hear ppl breakin rods/pistons but never cranks…even on cast cranks. they should knock off 500-700 bucks off that crate motor. Actually, if you put in a set of forged H beam 3.75 rods in with blower pistons, you have a good forged rotating assy. That’s what angle I was thinking of mostly. A stout all motor setup, then you can go with like a 144ci blower and some forged pistons and rods after a while for only a few thousand more. And then it’s a whole new ballgame…would 700 hp not be out of the question on that setup due to the extremely low non-boost compression and potential for massive drive pulley size reduction? --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/350-or-383-sbc/187866)._