# 4wd won't engage, 2000 silverado

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/4wd-wont-engage-2000-silverado/267979>\
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive\
**Created:** [November 25, 2013, 9:53am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/4wd-wont-engage-2000-silverado/267979 "2013-11-25T09:53:44Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 9

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**Author:** ![toomanycamaros](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/7993a0/32.png) [@toomanycamaros](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/toomanycamaros)\
**Post date:** [November 25, 2013, 4:52pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/4wd-wont-engage-2000-silverado/267979/9 "2013-11-25T16:52:25Z")

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> [@It's Friday and I'm leaving @ noon Crew](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/its-friday-and-im-leaving-noon-crew/53682/18):
>
> why do I need to remove the driveshaft to do this?

I like to remove the driveshaft from the yoke on the front diff so I can spin the yoke by hand and feel what the backlash is like. It’s personal preference, but like I said in your other thread weeks ago it needs an actuator. The front diffs in 1/2 ton GMs really are craptastic and very proned to failure at higher milage intervals. I work at a dealership and it looks bad if I sell a customer an actuator in November and then something fails internally halfway through the winter. So I tend to air on the side of caution and check the units out probably a little more then need be.

> [@New Metallica: The Day That Never Comes](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-metallica-the-day-that-never-comes/53644/23):
>
> I heard you have to remove the entire transfer case to do that.

I hope your making some kind of retarded joke like normal. Otherwise you really are brain dead.

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