# Any good machine shops?

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/any-good-machine-shops/260820
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive
**Created:** [October 11, 2011, 6:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/any-good-machine-shops/260820 "2011-10-11T06:38:02Z")
**Posts on this page:** 1
**Showing post:** 19

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### Author: ![Phate](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/e0b2c6/32.png) [@Phate](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Phate)
#### Post date: [October 11, 2011, 7:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/any-good-machine-shops/260820/19 "2011-10-11T19:19:03Z")

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> [@WTH: Someone to remove the tint from my back window](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wth-someone-to-remove-the-tint-from-my-back-window/45828/15):
>
> lol. done right with appropriate radii and measurements, cetting centric, etc would take longer than an hour to do these.
> 
> Most wheels have a taper going to the hubcentric of ~3-5mm, then the actual hubcentric diameter. to machine these down and have enough of a lip(~10mm) that’s actually going to act as a hubcentric, the 20’s will be cut down in half and the 10’s, well you can figure that out.
> 
> that’s why they start with a billet ~20mm thicker than what the actual spacer will end up as.
> 
> I would buy new ones. I can tell you that If i were to do them it would be expensive.

Yeah, I kinda derped looking at the picture and thought he wanted to get rid of the lip, not put a new one back on. Starting with a 20mm spacer and having to create a lip in the middle, you wouldn’t have a whole lot of spacer left.

You are right, putting a lip back on would be a lot harder, and was not aware of the taper. Things like this could be “made to work” cheaply and fairly easily, but that isn’t the “right way” of doing things.

Buying new spacers or just saying screw it and using the lugs to center the wheel are probably better options.

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