# ARP vs. Golden Eagle **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [November 11, 2008, 7:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990 "2008-11-11T19:31:08Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 10\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Birdman](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/birdman/32/5186_2.png) [@Birdman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Birdman)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/1 "2008-11-11T19:31:08Z")
Whats ur opinion on which main and head studs to use on my b series. I understand that ARP torque are higher than oem which can possibly warp the head, and Golden eagle have the same torque as oem. But i know alot of people use ARP. They are pretty much the same price, just wondering what you guys think are the better quality studs. ``` Thanks, Steve ``` ---
**Author:** ![turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/turbo_ls1_ss/32/7303_2.png) [@turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/turbo_ls1_ss)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/2 "2008-11-11T19:33:03Z")
ARP makes good hardware. just be sure to follow the manufacturer’s (ARP or GE) torque specs and sequence. always a good idea to re-tq the heads after a heat-cycle ---
**Author:** ![lsvtechatch](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e5b9ba/32.png) [@lsvtechatch](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/lsvtechatch)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/3 "2008-11-11T19:37:31Z")
ARP ftw. ---
**Author:** ![Birdman](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/birdman/32/5186_2.png) [@Birdman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Birdman)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:40pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/4 "2008-11-11T19:40:35Z")
^ so thats a no to ARP?? lol ---
**Author:** ![95d16turbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/977dab/32.png) [@95d16turbo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95d16turbo)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/5 "2008-11-11T19:41:54Z")
ARP studs are only threaded into the block hand tight and the nuts are tightened to 85 ft/lbs. go with arp. ---
**Author:** ![95d16turbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/977dab/32.png) [@95d16turbo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95d16turbo)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/6 "2008-11-11T19:42:20Z")
ftw=for the win ---
**Author:** ![Firehawk853](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/firehawk853/32/7607_2.png) [@Firehawk853](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Firehawk853)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/7 "2008-11-11T19:43:05Z")
Torque all depends on the material of the fastener. ARP might need more torque to properly stretch the fastener because they are made from a stronger material usually 8740 CrMoly, ARP2000 or L-19. I wouldn’t worry about ARP head studs warping a stock B series cylinder head ---
**Author:** ![Birdman](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/birdman/32/5186_2.png) [@Birdman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Birdman)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/8 "2008-11-11T19:43:28Z")
oo my bad lol miss understanding. ok thanks brotha ---
**Author:** ![Birdman](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/birdman/32/5186_2.png) [@Birdman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Birdman)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/9 "2008-11-11T19:44:53Z")
> [@Firehawk853](#): > > Torque all depends on the material of the fastener. ARP might need more torque to properly stretch the fastener because they are made from a stronger material usually 8740 CrMoly, ARP2000 or L-19. I wouldn’t worry about ARP head studs warping a stock B series cylinder head yes that makes sense, thank you ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [November 11, 2008, 7:51pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/arp-vs-golden-eagle/57990/10 "2008-11-11T19:51:46Z")
aebs has some of the best headstuds for B series IMO the bottom threads are made so they dont bottom out and possibly ruin the threads/block i would not recommend main studs unless you do an alignbore/hone on the crank mains oem honda main bolts are not known to fail also the recommendation is good to retoqrue the head studs but i personally dont do it on B-series vtec blocks, i have installed head studs on over 100+ engines and as long as you tq the nuts , loosen, then re-tq them properly you will not have any problems i can guarantee it