# Aw, not again(Brakes content ITT)

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/aw-not-again-brakes-content-itt/242224>\
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive\
**Created:** [February 18, 2009, 12:06pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/aw-not-again-brakes-content-itt/242224 "2009-02-18T12:06:07Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 73

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**Author:** ![Wayne64SS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/wayne64ss/32/6365_2.png) [@Wayne64SS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Wayne64SS)\
**Post date:** [February 20, 2009, 8:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/aw-not-again-brakes-content-itt/242224/73 "2009-02-20T08:29:28Z")

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> [@Quick WRX question](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/quick-wrx-question/13009/28):
>
> most likely a control arm causin the clunk there a common failure on them ,or a loose pad isnt all to uncommonin the saddle

definitely… if it was a caliper you’d know it.

i just put rear brakes / rotors on my car last night? 🙂 mine is perfect? :thumbup :hug

all the caliper slides were frozen as fuck though, so i had to pull em all grind em, and relube. also it’s imperative to pull the metal plates the pads slide in off the bracket that holds the caliper. Grind smooth with die grinder and cookie or get new ones. Then you must grind down the area behind those metal plates that they attach to / rest against. Otherwise the pad will be too tight and won’t be able to move properly and it will hang up. Possibly causing your warping. Make sure to use loob where the pad slides as well, but don’t get any on the pad face or rotor like a n00b. I also like to put a tiny bit of lube on the back of the pads where caliper touches to help prevent squeal.

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