# Best B-Series all motor combo **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [May 31, 2009, 9:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540 "2009-05-31T09:44:47Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 3
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 9:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/41 "2009-05-31T21:45:40Z")
> [@lsvtechatch](#): > > and as far as the flat face valves go, it is not a gimmick. Combustion\_Contraption(on honda-tech, i forgot his real name) flow tested a set of FF vs. regular from the same manufacturer, and they actually had better flow along with the extra compression. > > My reasons for going this route are simple. I need 12.5:1 to run the Skunk2 Pro2 cams. I already did the calculation for compression and thought I was going to be fine but I didnt factor in the porting that was done on the head, yes it was minor but it factors in. So not knowing the exact cc’s of my chambers I opted to get the FF valves over the Regular. I was already buying new valves so the extra cost was minimal. > > And the reason for decking the head was to clean it up, it had minor pitting on the surface. Im running an extra thick head gasket to make up the difference though. how would flat faced valves effect flow when flow tests have to do with the flow out the valves and the valve stem/back of valve is the exact same? ---
**Author:** ![lsvtechatch](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/e5b9ba/32.png) [@lsvtechatch](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/lsvtechatch)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 10:01pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/42 "2009-05-31T22:01:10Z")
> [@alpha earl](#): > > how would flat faced valves effect flow when flow tests have to do with the flow out the valves and the valve stem/back of valve is the exact same? I honestly dont know I read the post awhile ago and I cant find it on Honda-tech. Im apparently remembering it wrong or some part of it wrong. I really wish I could find the post with it. There was a huge debate about it. It might have had something to do with evening out the velocity in the chamber. Consistent Velocity = More uniform airflow = Better overall airflow. Maybe? Its a long shot but possible I guess. This is going to bug me now. But he had some diagrams and numbers to back up the claim. And he doesnt sell them so idk why he would fake the information. Either way they still bumped my compression up. ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2009, 10:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/43 "2009-05-31T22:33:18Z")
ya, good headwork goes a long way in the n/a world, which is why someone should buy my gsr head that was done by portflow 😉 ---
**Author:** ![Toda\_Party](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/toda_party/32/7354_2.png) [@Toda\_Party](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Toda_Party)\ **Post date:** [June 1, 2009, 7:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/44 "2009-06-01T07:45:45Z")
I’m not bickering with you, just pointing out facts. I love the B series lol, I hate to talk down on it, but its just the truth. The guy wanted to build an All Motor B, and I told him I think its a waste of money, and still do. **[91DA my suggestion to u is, do a stock GSR swap, maybe do some cams and engine management…then leave it alone. All motor B’s are just NOT worth it anymore these days. Don’t focus on a number like " i want 200 whp" cuz honestly, u prob dont even know what 200 whp feels like, how fast it is, if you’ll be satisifed with “just” 200 whp, etc. Establish a budget, then move forward from there.** Yes, flat faced valves will raise compression, that’s a given since they are flat faced and ur eliminating 4 small dishes from OEM valves. This inc in comp is negligible. Flow is determined by intake mani/ports/throats/valve job angles/and the valve tulip itself, not the face of the valve. Some aftermarket valves like Ferrera etc do flow well(better than OEM), but OEM Honda valves flow just FINE, and all that carbonization etc can be bead blasted off…its just aesthetics. Yeah if ur changing valves anyway, then fine pick up Flat faced but its not worth the money just to change out perfectly good valves to replace them w/ FF. Use that money on 13+:1 compression pistsons, cuz thats what the B will need to make good power. Most of these HT results being posted are miniscule differences where you’ll only notice the diff if ur a pro driver in the 9’s, 8’s, etc. Deebo - if I didn’t get the GSR longblock as a trade for my old motor, i’d not be doing a swap now, but I had a tranny and all this Bshit left over, it was stupid NOT to do the swap at that point. ---
**Author:** ![Zer0DazE](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/zer0daze/32/7624_2.png) [@Zer0DazE](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Zer0DazE)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 5:13am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/45 "2009-06-02T05:13:20Z")
> [@Toda Party](#): > > RPM = ruins peoples’ motors… I can’t believe you stole that from me but its ok, I stole it from TOO over at Endyn Toda is right. The cost of building a reliable B series is going to be really close to the cost of a properly done K swap; however, you have tapped the B series out, where as the K series engine still has room for improvement. ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 8:20am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/46 "2009-06-02T08:20:33Z")
have you guys checked the prices on the wiring harness, kpro, mounts, fuel system etc that it takes to put in a K series although it can be done with used parts for cheaper it still wont be nearly as cheap as the b series ---
**Author:** ![Zer0DazE](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/zer0daze/32/7624_2.png) [@Zer0DazE](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Zer0DazE)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 8:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/47 "2009-06-02T08:34:54Z")
Yes, and I am assuming either build with be done correctly, and not ghetto fab… I guess that is where I was mistaken. Have you looked at the cost of good cams, good head work, and proper engine management? You will nickle and dime yourself to death on a B series build and still have less area under the curve than a K series with bolt ons. ---
**Author:** ![Toda\_Party](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/toda_party/32/7354_2.png) [@Toda\_Party](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Toda_Party)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 8:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/48 "2009-06-02T08:36:29Z")
> [@Zer0DazE](#): > > I can’t believe you stole that from me > > but its ok, I stole it from TOO over at Endyn > > Toda is right. The cost of building a reliable B series is going to be really close to the cost of a properly done K swap; however, you have tapped the B series out, where as the K series engine still has room for improvement. i stole it from krit, who stole it from TOO too lol ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 9:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/49 "2009-06-02T09:00:32Z")
> [@Zer0DazE](#): > > Yes, and I am assuming either build with be done correctly, and not ghetto fab… I guess that is where I was mistaken. > > Have you looked at the cost of good cams, good head work, and proper engine management? > > You will nickle and dime yourself to death on a B series build and still have less area under the curve than a K series with bolt ons. for 200whp and slowly built i would do: gsr block (you already have) ls crank (89mm stroke) **100** eagle ls rods (no sense in trying to push ls rods to their limits with arp rod bolts) **250-300** acl’s-100 wiseco/cp 11.5:1 pistons (81.5mm bore) **450** gsr head-500 skunk2 springs/retainers-300 skunk2 pro1 cams-350-500 cam gears- 150 hytech replica header-400 sk2 intake manifold-200 tuning-400 assembly/machine work-500 total-3,900 should be really reliable easy 200whp car ---
**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 2:09pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/50 "2009-06-02T14:09:31Z")
f the forged pistons. You can Get inline-pro CTR pistons @ 81.5mm , w/ skirt coating/honda oem rings/pins for 300$ ---
**Author:** ![Toda\_Party](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/toda_party/32/7354_2.png) [@Toda\_Party](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Toda_Party)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 2:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/51 "2009-06-02T14:23:01Z")
they dropped the price of RS machines pistons to 100 from 180 when i bought them :\*( ---
**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 2:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/52 "2009-06-02T14:31:00Z")
i was retarded and bought oem honda itr pistons instead of the RS ones because i didnt see them and paid like an extra 150bucks lol :picard: ---
**Author:** ![Toda\_Party](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/toda_party/32/7354_2.png) [@Toda\_Party](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Toda_Party)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 3:14pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/53 "2009-06-02T15:14:31Z")
i would’ve went oem but i went 82.0 so ---
**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 3:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/54 "2009-06-02T15:23:10Z")
are you going to be coming up here anytime soon again? still have that 4.9 ITR tranny? ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [June 2, 2009, 7:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/55 "2009-06-02T19:45:22Z")
> [@deebo](#): > > f the forged pistons. > > You can Get inline-pro CTR pistons @ 81.5mm , w/ skirt coating/honda oem rings/pins for 300$ ctr pistons are junk, p30 pistons are known to make more power and are alot easier to tune and forged pistons with eagle rods give the option to use nitrous if the power isn’t enough, let alone they are safer and an overall better design ---
**Author:** ![\_91DA](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/_91da/32/5332_2.png) [@\_91DA](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/_91DA)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2009, 5:20am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/56 "2009-06-03T05:20:50Z")
> [@alpha earl](#): > > ctr pistons are junk, p30 pistons are known to make more power and are alot easier to tune > > and forged pistons with eagle rods give the option to use nitrous if the power isn’t enough, let alone they are safer and an overall better design now, im still not really familiar with all the codes or whatever for the pistons and such. so could you enlighten me as to what p30 pistons are for example? ---
**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2009, 5:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/57 "2009-06-03T05:44:10Z")
b16a pistons ---
**Author:** ![King](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/king/32/7329_2.png) [@King](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/King)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2009, 7:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/58 "2009-06-03T07:42:51Z")
friend used to have kseries in a 2000 teg…felt super quick for 220/230ish ---
**Author:** ![Saxon](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/59ef9b/32.png) [@Saxon](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Saxon)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2009, 7:50am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/59 "2009-06-03T07:50:41Z")
> [@'91DA](#): > > now, im still not really familiar with all the codes or whatever for the pistons and such. so could you enlighten me as to what p30 pistons are for example? pct pistons (ctr) are pistons from a civic type R they raise compression drastically in most motors (13+:1 in an ls vtec) are the heaviest stock pistons, the dome is ridiculously huge, and they make tuning with pump gas a pain in the ass p30 pistons are from a jdm b16 and will give compression in the 11:1 area, are known for having great potential for an na build while not breaking the bank here is a site that shows you compression, displacement, bore etc and may help you out some > **[c-speedracing.com](http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php)** > > Check Engine Codes,Honda Engines,Engine Timing Marks,Auto Repair Manual,JDM Engine,How to Repair a Car Engine,Honda Auto Repair,Timing Belt Repair ---
**Author:** ![Toda\_Party](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/toda_party/32/7354_2.png) [@Toda\_Party](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Toda_Party)\ **Post date:** [June 3, 2009, 1:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540/60 "2009-06-03T13:23:06Z")
> [@alpha earl](#): > > ctr pistons are junk, p30 pistons are known to make more power and are alot easier to tune > [@alpha earl](#): > > pct pistons (ctr) are pistons from a civic type R > they raise compression drastically in most motors (13+:1 in an ls vtec) are the heaviest stock pistons, the dome is ridiculously huge, and they make tuning with pump gas a pain in the ass > > p30 pistons are from a jdm b16 and will give compression in the 11:1 area, are known for having great potential for an na build while not breaking the bank :banghead::meh: CTR = JUNK? Cmon now. Pick the piston depending on the cam you plan on using. Anything bigger than 12.0mm lift and more than 250 duration will require higher compression to make power due to overlap. For a milder cam (ITR/CTR, any “stage 1” cam, etc) you can use a lower comp JDM ITR or b16 piston since u dont lose as much compression to overlap. So, no CTR pistons are not JUNK…and they are only “easier” to tune if your tuner fails. Compression is KING for an all motor build. [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540.md?page=2) [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/best-b-series-all-motor-combo/68540.md?page=4)