# Break-in method **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [July 24, 2008, 11:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095 "2008-07-24T11:34:08Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![chino](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/bcef8e/32.png) [@chino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/chino)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/1 "2008-07-24T11:34:08Z")
I’m planning on going with hard break in method on the new sti… for those of you that have bought a couple new cars which route did you go and what were the results? ---
**Author:** ![Joe](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/joe/32/7219_2.png) [@Joe](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Joe)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/2 "2008-07-24T11:43:09Z")
Hard break in method on my SS, 9000 miles and 30 lbs of spray through a stock motor and it hasnt been in for service yet… ---
**Author:** ![BluBalls](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bluballs/32/7212_2.png) [@BluBalls](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BluBalls)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:46am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/3 "2008-07-24T11:46:02Z")
I say drive it how you normally but don’t keep the same RPM for too long(while hwy driving) ---
**Author:** ![Geoff](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/geoff/32/6104_2.png) [@Geoff](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Geoff)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:48am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/4 "2008-07-24T11:48:31Z")
I think it’s called a progressive break-in? Do a series of a few moderate 3rd gear pulls to high rpms, then let the throttle snap shut, and have it coast down to lower rpms again and do another pull. Introduce some boost. Let the rings seat. Do a few cycles for the first 500 miles, then change oil. I did my oil at 500, 1000, 1500. Overkill? Maybe, but oil is cheap, why not. Don can elaborate. ---
**Author:** ![dozr](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/41988e/32.png) [@dozr](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/dozr)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:51am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/5 "2008-07-24T11:51:39Z")
The “Drive it sideways out of the lot, & Beat the piss out of it” method works for me. ---
**Author:** ![Nikuk](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/nikuk/32/7254_2.png) [@Nikuk](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nikuk)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:54am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/6 "2008-07-24T11:54:51Z")
break in is overrated unless there is a specific reason to think otherwise for your application. ---
**Author:** ![9ONA3OOZX](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/9ona3oozx/32/7242_2.png) [@9ONA3OOZX](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/9ONA3OOZX)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/7 "2008-07-24T11:56:50Z")
kinda ot and no intent for thread hijack…but does this also apply to rebuilt motors? ---
**Author:** ![Nikuk](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/nikuk/32/7254_2.png) [@Nikuk](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nikuk)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:58am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/8 "2008-07-24T11:58:56Z")
I (among a whole lot of other people on this site alone) have rebuilt motors and ran them full tilt out of the box. No problems yet ---
**Author:** ![OfficerK](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/4da419/32.png) [@OfficerK](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/OfficerK)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 11:59am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/9 "2008-07-24T11:59:00Z")
I like to take it easy on the clutch for the first 1000…but the engine eh whatever… let her rip ---
**Author:** ![chino](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/bcef8e/32.png) [@chino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/chino)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:14pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/10 "2008-07-24T12:14:31Z")
> [@Geoff](#): > > I think it’s called a progressive break-in? > > Do a series of a few moderate 3rd gear pulls to high rpms, then let the throttle snap shut, and have it coast down to lower rpms again and do another pull. Introduce some boost. Let the rings seat. Do a few cycles for the first 500 miles, then change oil. > > I did my oil at 500, 1000, 1500. Overkill? Maybe, but oil is cheap, why not. > > Don can elaborate. that is pretty much what I was planning… rev it out and let it coast - from what I understand that’s the best way to get the rings to seat… was going to do that for about 500 miles and hopefully I can get that done before next weeks autocross 😛 ---
**Author:** ![Zong](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/zong/32/7580_2.png) [@Zong](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Zong)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:16pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/11 "2008-07-24T12:16:47Z")
+1 for the progressive break in do that ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:18pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/12 "2008-07-24T12:18:25Z")
just let it idle in the driveway for a half-hour or so before the auto-x, that oughta do it. lol def. do the progressive method ---
**Author:** ![chino](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/bcef8e/32.png) [@chino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/chino)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:24pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/13 "2008-07-24T12:24:26Z")
lol, i know you’re not serious but idling is the worst thing to do, since its tech figure we’d point that out so no one reads it and thinks its a good idea 😛 ---
**Author:** ![sweet89s13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/87869e/32.png) [@sweet89s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/sweet89s13)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:28pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/14 "2008-07-24T12:28:21Z")
motor or clutch drive it how you are going to drive it. that is what ive done for all my rebuilds and clutch installs. the progressive method is prolly smarter, but then ive never said im smart… ---
**Author:** ![Harvey](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/harvey/32/5069_2.png) [@Harvey](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Harvey)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:34pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/15 "2008-07-24T12:34:05Z")
I changed the diff and tranny fluids at 500 miles also. ---
**Author:** ![chino](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/bcef8e/32.png) [@chino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/chino)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/16 "2008-07-24T12:41:16Z")
> [@eesti](#): > > I changed the diff and tranny fluids at 500 miles also. hmm really? didn’t think about that at all ---
**Author:** ![Geoff](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/geoff/32/6104_2.png) [@Geoff](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Geoff)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/17 "2008-07-24T12:43:39Z")
> [@eesti](#): > > I changed the diff and tranny fluids at 500 miles also. Wow, never heard of that. I go by the 15K rule for tranny, diff, TC. ---
**Author:** ![Carnut](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/carnut/32/7590_2.png) [@Carnut](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Carnut)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:57pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/18 "2008-07-24T12:57:24Z")
There is no such thing as break in anymore on OEM engines. The approach given that Geoff speaks of is for a performance engine with forged pistons and slightly looser than factory tolerances. The tolerances are soo tight and the machine processes soo precise in this day and age that the rings seat on initial startup. Which means that before you purchase the car odds are it has been driven. Ring seal has been completed. Clutch and brake bedding is the normal drive it normal to transfer friction materials. Change the oil at 1000 for reassurance. Enjoy car. 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![Harvey](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/harvey/32/5069_2.png) [@Harvey](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Harvey)\ **Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 12:58pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/19 "2008-07-24T12:58:48Z")
I don’t think it’s common, but I don’t like the debris from the initial wear in of the gears floating around. Maybe overkill, but no more so than engine break in:jam: ---
**Author:** ![chino](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/bcef8e/32.png) [@chino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/chino)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2008, 3:59am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095/20 "2008-07-25T03:59:22Z")
well, my gas mileage so far is 10mpg… lol. [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/break-in-method/52095.md?page=2)