# Building an SR20DET... **URL:** \ **Category:** SON240sx Automotive\ **Created:** [September 1, 2008, 3:34pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136 "2008-09-01T15:34:20Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 5\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![simplemind7](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/0ea827/32.png) [@simplemind7](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/simplemind7)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2008, 7:05pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136/21 "2008-09-02T19:05:44Z")
okay, scott, you’re a good guy but i have to say something. > [@Gun Control](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gun-control/18174/42): > > #1 make an oil cooler yourself, theres a DIY here somewhere;) ghetto. > [@Gun Control](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gun-control/18174/42): > > #2 get SOLID mounts… will be loud and “rickity” but your gona get used to it and you will never experiance a blown mount which will make you think everything is broken but the mount… solid mounts, while functional, are shitty. unless you’re hardcore and don’t have other people ride in your car ever then you shouldn’t have them. > [@Gun Control](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gun-control/18174/42): > > #3 Dont rebuild the Rear subframe… find a used **JDM** rustless subframe, pay to powdercoat it and replace your stock one(might aswell do a 2way dif when your at it) what’s wrong with rebuilding a subframe? if you’re going to powdercoat it what difference does it make if it’s JDM? and if you’re going to powdercoat it then you’ll have to replace the subframe bushings (the oven will ruin them) powdercoating a subframe always turns into a bigger job that just “powdercoating a subframe”. and you make putting a 2 way diff in seem like it’s free… it’s not exactly a cheap item to install. > [@Gun Control](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gun-control/18174/42): > > and for parts… go to intense… if youve never installed a clutch have them do it for you… not something you wanna play around with, may cost you your motor and tranny. completely disagree. don’t just go to one shop, shop around to see who actually treats you well and who has the best prices. as for a clutch install… you’re going to tell him to pay someone to install a clutch for him, but he can make his own oil cooler? IMO it’s way easier to change a clutch. and how can you damage a transmission by not installing a clutch correctly? other than forgetting to tighten the pressure plate bolts or something ridiculous that no one has ever done… for that matter how do you even install a clutch incorrectly? lol. as long as you tighten all of the bolts and the transmission fits back on it’s correct. nothing against you, that post just soured me a bit. ---
**Author:** ![Zman86](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/zman86/32/5694_2.png) [@Zman86](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Zman86)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2008, 7:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136/22 "2008-09-02T19:23:02Z")
Rear subframe is JDM S14 from what I’ve been told. Installed complete rear subframe for 5-bolt swap. Subframe bushings are toast, but I thought I’d pull it out and re-do everything anyways, and install a Bings multilink setup/solid aluminum bushings. Clutch is no problem, I’m a 3rd year automotive service technician apprentice with 6 years experience in the trade, changing a clutch is a no-brainer. Probably going to eventually do a remote mount oil filter since changing it now is a complete pain in the ass, and the adaptor that attaches to the block gives you the holes to install a cooler properly does it not? I half ass things on my beater cars, but there will be no half-assing on this car i.e ghetto fabbing my own oil cooler. I wont be going solid engine/tranny mounts, my cars not going to be that serious. I want something thats going to be “decent” on the street, but am also going to be able to occasionally track. 2 way diff may be in the future, but the VLSD is working fine for now, when it explodes, I’ll upgrade. Thanks again for the opinions/suggestions thus far. ---
**Author:** ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2008, 9:32pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136/23 "2008-09-02T21:32:22Z")
well enjuku now runs a different engine, i m going on information from a couple years back, and yeah they did run stock bottom ends i know guys that work for them that told me so, but yeah, not anymore apparently, and stock block for the win. ---
**Author:** ![Dominik](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/ee7513/32.png) [@Dominik](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Dominik)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2008, 11:36pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136/24 "2008-09-02T23:36:06Z")
If I were you I’d just re-work the stock block. Next to the 4G63 the SR20’s are some of the strongest 4 bangers made. again up there with the 4g63, bank for buck with these motors is fantastic. If you’re only looking for 300whp, I’d just get a good tune, 650cc’s, efficent FMIC, Big28 and some sort of equal length header/manifold so it can breath. Since it’s already apart, clean up the ports, work the valvetrain. Even though you’re only aiming for 300, i’d build it to handle 400, JUST in case you feel the need to crank up the jam later on. Which you will. Your options/possibilities are endless. There has been some very good advice so far. I’d consider what everyone has to say. Personally. My new motor is just a stock black top S14, 650’s, megan header, jim wolfe tune, nothing special. tuned to 285hp at 1 bar. With a GT2871R it will make much more and the set-up will be able to handle it. Simplicity is the most sophisitacted solution. ---
**Author:** ![Tarz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/43a26b/32.png) [@Tarz](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tarz)\ **Post date:** [March 25, 2009, 7:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136/25 "2009-03-25T07:30:44Z")
> [@FS: FEELER :1996 Honda Civic Coupe DX 5-Speed](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-feeler-1996-honda-civic-coupe-dx-5-speed/17520/14): > > even you guys at intense the sr20 specialists should vouch for the stock internals on ruffly 300WHP > rebuilding the head with solid valve train will help with high revving tolerance but who the hell revvs past 7grand when you lose powerband after 6grand on most turbo setups. im pretty sure you rev past 7grand so that when u shift its lands in power band or to make the stretch to the next corner with out having to up shift to immediately down shifting. and when ur out difting havent u hit rev limiter? [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/building-an-sr20det/118136.md?page=1)