# Car Audio Question/Amp Advice **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [July 6, 2009, 10:49am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132 "2009-07-06T10:49:47Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 12\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![kenmxz13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/kenmxz13/32/5288_2.png) [@kenmxz13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kenmxz13)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 10:49am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/1 "2009-07-06T10:49:47Z")
Hey, I’m looking into getting my first system put together. I just got 2 420 watt subs (12 in) from my uncle that he had laying around. I’ve got a good pioneer head unit already along with decent polk speakers. So…all i still need is the amp, and I’ve been looking to see how much power I need. I’ve been looking and comparing and noticed that Power Acoustik are much cheaper than some of the other stuff out there. Does anyone know how much of a difference I’d notice buying those compared to something like Sony or rockford? Just looking for advice/recommendations, I’m not trying to go crazy with power, or winning base-off contests haha. Just want the music to sound crisp with a good thump in the car. ---
**Author:** ![yamba6](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/yamba6/32/5161_2.png) [@yamba6](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/yamba6)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 10:54am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/2 "2009-07-06T10:54:31Z")
you need to take all the rms of each item your using, add them up and get a matching amp that has the same or higher rms. Im guessing your probably going to want to upgrade at one point, so i suggest to get something with more rms than what your subs are at now so that you dont need to get all new stuff but just subs. max power is never the proper number to go with, rms is actual power of each company product. youll find pioneer for example has a sub out there that is 600 watts, but actual 150rms. this exact sub, but different color and a little older, was set at 400 watts, it was also 150rms, just to give you an idea. ---
**Author:** ![newman](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/newman/32/7569_2.png) [@newman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/newman)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:10am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/3 "2009-07-06T11:10:52Z")
POT SUBS! ---
**Author:** ![Treads4Heads](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/treads4heads/32/7416_2.png) [@Treads4Heads](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Treads4Heads)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/4 "2009-07-06T11:29:26Z")
If you can, find the pre-out voltage of your headunit. It will make it much easier to match with the gain of your amp so you have the cleanest sound you can get. People tend to get an amp and just max pot it and think thats the way you get the best bang. I would suggest something that has a brand name to it rather than a cheap chinese knock off. They tend to be more efficient and have a better sound than something cheap with cheap internals. Obviously look for the RMS rating and not just “100000 WATTS OF BASS PUMPING POWER” ---
**Author:** ![Nikuk](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/nikuk/32/7254_2.png) [@Nikuk](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nikuk)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/5 "2009-07-06T11:29:28Z")
a watt is a watt. Any amp will work. What you’re paying for when you buy Pioneer, Rockford, JBL is three things: extra processing (better qual filters etc); reliability (better quality control & assembly); marketing. Pick up a “D” or digital (not AB) mono or 2ch amp that’ll put 400-600 wrms into 2ohms, wire your subs in parrellel (to 2 ohms), and pick up an 8ga amp wire kit and make sure you make a good ground connection to bare metal on the chassis. ---
**Author:** ![Treads4Heads](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/treads4heads/32/7416_2.png) [@Treads4Heads](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Treads4Heads)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/6 "2009-07-06T11:30:57Z")
> [@Nikuk](#): > > a watt is a watt. Any amp will work. What you’re paying for when you buy Pioneer, Rockford, JBL is three things: extra processing (better qual filters etc); reliability (better quality control & assembly); marketing. > > Pick up a “D” or digital (not AB) mono or 2ch amp that’ll put 400-600 wrms into 2ohms, wire your subs in parrellel (to 2 ohms), and pick up an 8ga amp wire kit and make sure you make a good ground connection to bare metal on the chassis. Oh, and listen to anything this man says on the topic. He has some sick write-ups on other forums ---
**Author:** ![dirtye30](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirtye30/32/7333_2.png) [@dirtye30](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/dirtye30)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:35am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/7 "2009-07-06T11:35:50Z")
> [@Nikuk](#): > > a watt is a watt. Any amp will work. What you’re paying for when you buy Pioneer, Rockford, JBL is three things: extra processing (better qual filters etc); reliability (better quality control & assembly); marketing. > > Pick up a “D” or digital (not AB) mono or 2ch amp that’ll put 400-600 wrms into 2ohms, wire your subs in parrellel (to 2 ohms), and pick up an 8ga amp wire kit and make sure you make a good ground connection to bare metal on the chassis. this is true assuming the subs are single 4 ohm coils, or dual 2’s. and a watt is a watt only when its CES certified 😛 ---
**Author:** ![Nikuk](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/nikuk/32/7254_2.png) [@Nikuk](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nikuk)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/8 "2009-07-06T11:36:09Z")
hahah, those are still around? :tup: ---
**Author:** ![Nikuk](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/nikuk/32/7254_2.png) [@Nikuk](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nikuk)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/9 "2009-07-06T11:38:16Z")
> [@dirtye30](#): > > assuming the subs are single 4 ohm coils, or dual 2’s. B I’ll bet you $5 that they’re going to read less then 3.5z once parrellellellled, and that the effective z is going to be way high anyways 😛 ---
**Author:** ![dirtye30](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirtye30/32/7333_2.png) [@dirtye30](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/dirtye30)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/10 "2009-07-06T11:38:36Z")
> [@Nikuk](#): > > hahah, those are still around? > > :tup: just because rome got old it didnt make it right to tear it down :mamoru: ---
**Author:** ![Treads4Heads](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/treads4heads/32/7416_2.png) [@Treads4Heads](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Treads4Heads)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 11:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/11 "2009-07-06T11:38:54Z")
I saved em as documents, not sure if the forums still have them. Its not information I use all the time, but has always been a great reference ---
**Author:** ![KuntryQuestTSi](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/kuntryquesttsi/32/5010_2.png) [@KuntryQuestTSi](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KuntryQuestTSi)\ **Post date:** [July 6, 2009, 5:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-audio-question-amp-advice/70132/12 "2009-07-06T17:47:25Z")
I have a Kicker ZX1500.1 (1500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm )pushing some little 250w rms kenwoods :shrug: