# clocking a turbo **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [October 29, 2006, 1:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416 "2006-10-29T13:44:59Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 15\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 1:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/1 "2006-10-29T13:44:59Z")
got a question here. i need to clock the housing on my turbo so that it points down(180\* turn) I just dont see how it would work. the turbo is internally gated and the one piece(dont know what its called) is bolted to the housing(see pic) how would i relocated the bracket that needs to be bolted?? ![http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/%7Etmaniaci/14bpic.JPG](http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/%7Etmaniaci/14bpic.JPG) RED- part which needs to be relocated i guess my other question is, what bolts do i need to loosen in order to adjust it?? ---
**Author:** ![turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/turbo_ls1_ss/32/7303_2.png) [@turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/turbo_ls1_ss)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 4:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/2 "2006-10-29T16:02:09Z")
u just need to make a bracket, for the bracket. to clock the housing, first u need to specify which housing. then u need to loosen that housing from the centersection and spin it. it looks like a clamp in your case. ---
**Author:** ![layzie](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/layzie/32/7599_2.png) [@layzie](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/layzie)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 4:04pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/3 "2006-10-29T16:04:33Z")
i didnt look but maybe check [www.atpturbo.com](http://www.atpturbo.com) they got alot of shit for turbos ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 4:21pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/4 "2006-10-29T16:21:08Z")
> [@turbo ls1 ss](#): > > …first u need to specify which housing. then u need to loosen that housing from the centersection and spin it. it looks like a clamp in your case. forgot to mention its a 14b dsm turbo(td04 i guess) ---
**Author:** ![turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/turbo_ls1_ss/32/7303_2.png) [@turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/turbo_ls1_ss)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 4:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/5 "2006-10-29T16:29:17Z")
no, i meant compressor or exhuast housing…not that it really matters. ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 4:38pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/6 "2006-10-29T16:38:38Z")
oh, silly me i meant the compressor housing needs to be clocked any dissadvantages to leaving it the way it is and having it point straight up?? ---
**Author:** ![seefour](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/9e8a1a/32.png) [@seefour](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/seefour)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2006, 7:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/7 "2006-10-29T19:43:42Z")
I don’t see any dissadvantages to leaving it pointed up besides the extra 6 inches of plumbing you would need. It’s also a TD05 14b. A TD04 is much smaller and doesn’t come with a 14b compressor wheel. ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 6:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/8 "2006-10-30T06:45:57Z")
> [@seefour](#): > > I don’t see any dissadvantages to leaving it pointed up besides the extra 6 inches of plumbing you would need. > > It’s also a TD05 14b. A TD04 is much smaller and doesn’t come with a 14b compressor wheel. thanks. yeah i have a retarded memory, what can i say?? yeah i think ill just leave it pointing up and bust my ass on the piping. I could use the welding practice anyways ---
**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 7:32pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/9 "2006-10-30T19:32:16Z")
well, its not only extra piping, but an extra bend the air has to travel around. the less bends the air has to make, the more efficient the system will be. clock it and fab up a little bracket for the actuator. ---
**Author:** ![zwarbyt](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/zwarbyt/32/7623_2.png) [@zwarbyt](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zwarbyt)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 7:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/10 "2006-10-30T19:42:47Z")
if your not spending 500+ on your turbo you shouldnt give a fuck how many bends there are ---
**Author:** ![BuickGN](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/buickgn/32/7200_2.png) [@BuickGN](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BuickGN)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 8:15pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/11 "2006-10-30T20:15:37Z")
that turbo is cute 😛 ---
**Author:** ![tnick24](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/f05b48/32.png) [@tnick24](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/tnick24)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 8:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/12 "2006-10-30T20:20:13Z")
> [@zwarbyt](#): > > if your not spending 500+ on your turbo you shouldnt give a fuck how many bends there are exactly, sounds like a home brew turbo kit your throwing together, just leave it the way it is, it will work for what you need. ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [October 30, 2006, 8:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/13 "2006-10-30T20:33:37Z")
werd. thanks for the conformation fellas hopefully within the next few weeks it will be up and running ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [November 4, 2006, 10:35am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/14 "2006-11-04T10:35:59Z")
ok, so fabing up the bends in that tight of a space would have taken WAY too much time, so i ditched that idea and went ahead and clocked it. now i will only need one small 180\* section, yay. now the way it is setup is that the oil feed is on the bottom and the drain is on the top. is that gonna cause a problem that the drain is pointing up?? ---
**Author:** ![Protonus](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/protonus/32/7382_2.png) [@Protonus](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Protonus)\ **Post date:** [November 5, 2006, 3:54am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clocking-a-turbo/19416/15 "2006-11-05T03:54:31Z")
> [@boardjnky4](#): > > now the way it is setup is that the oil feed is on the bottom and the drain is on the top. is that gonna cause a problem that the drain is pointing up?? I’m going to hope you’re kidding… But somehow I have this feeling you’re not. IF you aren’t… It’s commonly called a drain and not a return for a reason… the oil exits there via gravity… it needs to be exactly at the bottom or I’d say max 15 degrees from centerline (center being the drain pointed straight down). IF you don’t have the drain at the bottom and pointed straight down, it will destroy your turbo in short order. If you don’t understand why, you really need to do more research and reading about how turbos work and especially their lubrication systems, before you consider doing anything further on whatever project you are doing, or you are going to end up with a bunch of metal in your oil pan. The long and short is this: Oil leaving the turbo occupies a far larger volume of space, compared to oil entering the turbo. IT is whipped up and frothy and hot as hell due to the violent nature of the shaft movement in the center catridge. Because of this, the drain on the turbo is far larger then the feed, to allow for the oil to drain out via gravity, at low pressure, into the pan. The pressure of the oil in the catridge is virtually non existent after the oil leaves the shaft area, because of the sudden increase in size of the drain line. But the flow demands are high due to the increase in volume of the oil. The drain needs to be as vertical as possible, and as large as possible, all the way to the pan, and enter the oil pan or engine block at a level above the oil, to ensure that oil cannot backup into the line. Off topic kinda, but for the same reasons the pressure in the crankcase also needs to be as low as possible (or ideally, a vacuum) to allow the oil to readily enter the pan without opposition. The pressure problem is why a badly designed/malfunctioning/boost pressurized - crankcase evacuation system (PCV) will cause you to burn oil in your turbo ie get blue smoke out the tailpipe, and is why it’s critical to make sure your PCV valve can seal against boost in the opposite direction to normal flow (IE boost blocking in the direction coming from the intake manifold/tb)