# Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders - Removal/Installation
**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467
**Category:** Canada Nissan Automotive
**Created:** [July 25, 2006, 8:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467 "2006-07-25T08:18:01Z")
**Posts on this page:** 12
**Page:** 1
### Author:  [@imported\_BeNDeR](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/imported_BeNDeR)
#### Post date: [July 25, 2006, 8:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/1 "2006-07-25T08:18:01Z")
OK, so here is my method for removal and installation of the Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Cylinders on my 1991 Nissan 240sx.
If you see anything in this thread that could be improved, PM me and/or post in this thread and I will edit this post. Pics and bleeding tutorial will be in here shortly.
Original thread for my Transmission problem can be found here:
[http://www.n-e-c-c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6465&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0](http://www.n-e-c-c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6465&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0)
Thanks 8)
_ **Clutch Master Cylinder Removal and Installation** _
Cost: ~$45 new from NAPA Auto Parts, Brake Fluid is extra
**1.** Inside under the dash there is a rod coming from the master cylinder that is connected to the clutch pedal by a clevis and pin setup. There is a cotter pin through the end of the pin that must be removed. Pop it out and pull the pin out. The clutch pedal should now no longer be connected to the rod on the master cylinder.
**2.** Next move out to the engine bay. There are 2 nuts holding the master cylinder on to the firewall from the engine bay side. The upper left most nut can be taken off with a 3/8 drive ratchet with a ~14mm(can’t remember exact size) deep socket and an extension. It takes a little finicking around, but it can come off.
**3.** Bottom right most but takes a little more effort. Not quite sure what it is (It has liquidles hoses so I assume it has something to do with a vacuum) but there is a black unit to the right of the master cylinder that is being held down by 2 screws. Remove the screws and pull the unit out of the way as much as possible. Doing this should give access to the bottom right most nut with a ~14mm wrench.
**4.** Pull the master cylinder up, but be careful not to snap the steel clutch fluid line. Find the right size wrench (12mm maybe?) and take the line off of the master cylinder. It would be a good idea to put paper towel or a rag under the unit as you remove the line as some brake fluid will leak out and, as we all know, brake fluid + paint = :o
That sums up removal. Now installation.
**1.** Follow above procedure in reverse.
**2.** When hooking up rod from master cylinder to the clutch pedal, remember to adjust it back up to the proper position. I will try to explain this as simply as possible:
**a)** There is a nut that is tightened up against the clevis. This nut prevents the rod from moving at all during normal vehicle use. Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen it off.
**b)** Now you will have to manually twist the rod to screw it either toward the master cylinder or toward the clutch pedal. It is a strange setup, but a 1/4 wrench will fit on to the rod, but only in one position. The rod looks something like the ghetto figure below:
.\_\_
(\_\_)
Where the wrench will only fit on the flat way and not the rounded way. You have to spin 90 degrees with your fingers and than another 90 degrees with the wrench (if you find it hard to twist the rod with your fingers, try pushing the rod into the master cylinder as you twist. This will help alleviate pressure pushing on the rod. **NOTE: After further adjjustment, I have found that just using a pair of pliers works just fine, if you can get them to grab.** ). One good thing about this monkey setup is that it is easy to count the number of turns for adjusting. I have found that it can be within a quarter of a turn to feel comfortable. That doesn’t mean it HAS to be adjusted to that degree, but it drove me nuts driving withoutthe clutch pedal feeling right :?
As I said above, if the rod is screwed to far into the master cylinder, there will be too much pressure on the slave cylinder, which will push on the fork (release lever I think it is called. I call it fork :roll: ), which will push on the throw out bearing, which will ride the clutch. Bad stuff.
If the rod is screwed too far toward the clutch pedal, there will be to little pressure on the clutch and you may freak out like I did 😛 I actually thought that the master cylinder was faulty at first, and that I would have to wait a week to get another new one…
Basically to find the perfect spot, you have to adjust and road test until it feels right. One way to test for clutch slippage if the rod is too far into the cylinder is to shift into third and gun the engine. If the rpms go up like crazy with little speed increase, your clutch is probably slipping (Don’t gun the engine anymore if this happens!). The grab and release / engage and disengage point on the clutch pedal will also be very close to the resting point of the clutch pedal (resting point is where the pedal stays when your foot is off it). Trust me, when the pedal is like this it will feel weird and you will know. This is where you would screw the rod into the pedal and out from the master cylinder 🙂
That about sums it up for the master cylinder :E Oh and don’t forget to bleed it after installation, unless you are also installing a slave. In that case, I would install the slave after the master, and then bleed the clutch. Great instructions on how to bleed the clutch below by JoshB.
_ **Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal and Installation** _
Cost: ~$25 new From NAPA Auto Parts, Brake Fluid is extra
The slave is located on the passenger side of the transmission near the front of the tranny (Pictures below). It has a pin that pushes against the release lever.
Removal:
**1.** Unbolt the unit from the transmission.
**2.** This is where it gets a little tricky. The part of the line that bolts into the slave is static or solid, and will not spin. If you try to twist it off you will probably twist the end off of the line, and then have to go buy a new line. No, to take the slave off, we have to spin the slave. To do this you will need a crescent wrench to fit on to the slave cylinder and a wrench (~9mm I think, maybe 10?) to fit on to the end of the line.
Hold the wrench on the line in place and twist, with the crescent wrench, the slave cylinder itself. Its not easy, (and a little liquid wrench wouldn’t hurt either!) but it is possible. Be prepared to catch some brake fluid coming out of the line.
That’s pretty much it for removal. Installation is reverse.
And there you have the clutch master and slave cylinder installation and removal in as much detail as my tiny brain could recollect. Again, after you replace the slave, bleed the clutch as described below by JoshB.
Enjoy! :partyman:
This bad boy just barely hit 3 pages in Word :rolleyes: and all I have to say is up yours crappy chiltons manual :finga:
---
### Author:  [@imported\_BeNDeR](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/imported_BeNDeR)
#### Post date: [July 25, 2006, 8:27am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/2 "2006-07-25T08:27:19Z")
**Clutch Slave Cylinder Pics Including Release Lever (Fork 🙂 )**
This is the pictures of the Clutch Slave Cylinder along with a mini synopsis of my original problem.
ok so i was driving down 178th after work and low and behold, my clutch stays on the floor!
The pictures below show where the problem is. It seems that the fork going into the bell housing is messed. How messed, i dunno…
[](http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01483copy7yt.jpg)
[](http://img93.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01479copy3mk.jpg)
[](http://img122.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01473copy6se.jpg)
[](http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc014829xi.jpg)
**Here is the solution to the fork issue if you guys were wondering. Turns out the Clutch Slave and Clutch Master Cylinders were also hooped, so I replaced them.**
ok so i got the tranny off with alot of help from my dad. i am not surprised that the fork came off cause the damn bolt/stud holding the fork on snapped in half!
more pics below. dealership parts department doesn’t open until monday so… if anyone has one of these special bolts to spare i would be extra grateful :E
it comes from the inside of the bellhousing right where the fork mounts
[](http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getimage2yt1.jpg)
[](http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getimageav6.jpg)
---
### Author:  [@imported\_BeNDeR](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/imported_BeNDeR)
#### Post date: [July 25, 2006, 8:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/3 "2006-07-25T08:28:42Z")
**And last but not least, JoshB’s excellent Clutch Bleeding guide :E**
> [@JoshB](#):
>
> > bleeding the clutch?
>
> This is VERY important! Judging by all the fluid it leaked there will be air in the line. Just to be safe, When bleeding the clutch make sure to top off the resovoir every 4 pumps to make sure it dosn’t run dry and suck air.
>
> Incase your not sure how to bleed the line follow these steps. Its very easy to do.
>
> Make sure and buy a fair amount of clutch hydrolic fluid **(Edit by BeNDeR: Clutch hydraulic fluid is brake fluid. Crappy Tire is your friend here 😉 )** you don’t want to run out. When you go to the parts store for the fluid pick up some clear fuel line (I think its 1/4") get about 2’ of it. Also you will need a friend to push the clutch petal for you.
>
> **1.** Fill the clutch resovor (it is located beside the master cyclandar under the hood, it is the smaller one. the lid just pops off). Make sure and keep an eye on the fluild level as you go.
>
> **2.** After the car is safly supported by jack stands go under the car and locate the bleeder nipple on the slave cyclandar (the slave cyclandar is the part thats bolted to the side of the transmition, the hydrolic line runs to this. the bleed nipple is located right above were the line attaches)
>
> **3.** Connect the clear tubing that you picked up from the parts store to the nipple. Take one of your empty beer cans that are now starting to pile up :tonqe: and cut it in 1/2 to make a catch can. You use this so the fluid dosen’t squirt all of you when you bleed the system, the clear line allows you to see air bubbles as they bleed out)
>
> **4.** Crack the nipple lose (3/4 turn or so) and tell your friend to push the petal down. Then once he replied down, tighten the nipple. Make sure that your friend holds the petal down untill the nipple is tight, then tell him to let the petal up. once the petal is up crack the nipple lose and repeat untill all the air bubbles in the fluid have stopped, do a few extra pumps just to be safe.
>
> **5.** Make sure nipple is tight and check the petal feel. if its good your all set!
---
### Author:  [@Nis240](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Nis240)
#### Post date: [July 25, 2006, 8:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/4 "2006-07-25T08:33:18Z")
Good write up. Stickied.
---
### Author:  [@JoshB1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JoshB1)
#### Post date: [July 26, 2006, 8:27pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/5 "2006-07-26T20:27:03Z")
Good to see your up and running :partyman: nice write up!
---
### Author:  [@BlackLabeL](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BlackLabeL)
#### Post date: [September 27, 2007, 10:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/6 "2007-09-27T10:28:02Z")
this post has been VERY helpful. thankyou very much guys!
---
### Author:  [@Garret\_Volden](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Garret_Volden)
#### Post date: [September 27, 2007, 7:51pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/7 "2007-09-27T19:51:36Z")
your welcome,that will be 29.95
---
### Author:  [@BlackLabeL](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BlackLabeL)
#### Post date: [September 27, 2007, 11:48pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/8 "2007-09-27T23:48:11Z")
how about i just add to the post to give back to the 240sx owners.
-the “jamb nut” for the clevis is 12mm
-the pushrod that comes out of the master cyl can be adjusted with a 6mm wrench insted of plyers
-use a 12mm deep socket and a small extension to get the hard to reach bolt on the master cyl mount (the two mount bolts are 12mm)
-the bleeder screws are all 10mm
-you will have to re-use the mounting bolts, clevis, and jamb nut if you get a napa master cyl.
-when you remove the clevis from the old master cyl pushrod, dont bother counting the number of turns the clevis is on there with. i assumed i could count the number of turns and then install the clevis on the new pushrod with the same amount of turns, thus keeping the clutch adjustment correct. this is not the case. no matter what you are going to have to adjust the new pushrod.
-a new master cyl and slave cost around 80 bucks at napa.
and last but not least, if you have the problem we all had… first thing you should do is try to adjust the pushrod by loosening the jamb nut and turning the rod. i cant help but wonder if i did this it may have just solved my problem.
and total time for this repair took me 1 hour.
---
### Author:  [@simpsonc](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/simpsonc)
#### Post date: [February 5, 2008, 5:17pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/9 "2008-02-05T17:17:14Z")
Ok so i’m having some clutch problems and i don’t know if it is the master cylinder or not. but every time i get into my car and then try to get it into gear it wont let me. It doesn’t grind it just blocks it from getting into first. But if i pump my clutch like 5-10 times it slides right into gear no problems, like it was brand new.
---
### Author:  [@Styles](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Styles)
#### Post date: [February 5, 2008, 9:55pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/10 "2008-02-05T21:55:39Z")
Have you bled both the **clutch line dampener** and the **clutch slave**?
And if you haven’t removed the dampener and you want to here’s how:
> [@Styles](#):
>
> Remove the clutch line dampener (check the fsm in the stickies). I assume it doesn’t engage/disengage gears either right. I’m guessing this is your problem.
>
> 
>
> To do this, just follow your clutch line from the clutch master to a little box valve looking thing. From this box there should be a thick line that leads to a bleeder and one that leads eventually to your slave cylinder on the transmission. Remove the box and the line that leads to a bleeder and directly connect the clutch line to the flexible line that goes to the slave. Make sure you don’t kink the line when you bend it. When you’re done the reconnecting it just bleed it via the clutch slave bleeder.
The dampener doesn’t do shit all and it took me a week and a new clutch master and slave, that weren’t needed.
Even if this isn’t the problem, at least it’ll save you time bleeding it later. Otherwise its either your master or slave.
---
### Author:  [@Jay\_Nismo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Jay_Nismo)
#### Post date: [February 6, 2008, 10:05am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/11 "2008-02-06T10:05:55Z")
Could also be the o-ring inside the slave. That’s how mine was, I just changed the whole Slave out. Napa is your friend!
---
### Author:  [@simpsonc](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/simpsonc)
#### Post date: [February 7, 2008, 11:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/clutch-master-and-slave-cylinders-removal-installation/143467/12 "2008-02-07T23:11:27Z")
ok so i installed my MC and no problems with that. nice new fit. but i went to go bleed the clutch and when i turned the pin on the slave cyl no fluid came out :shock: i followed the directions and still nothing??? and yes my resivor was is full