# Coding a lock cylinder

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255>\
**Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\
**Created:** [June 8, 2011, 8:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255 "2011-06-08T08:12:22Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 6\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![drvnkd](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/drvnkd/32/109615_2.png) [@drvnkd](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/drvnkd)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/1 "2011-06-08T08:12:22Z")

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The wifes Vue has been a PITA lately as her keys are getting worn.

I can get a new cylinder for $55 or so but do not want to spend $35 to have Paddock code it.  
How hard is it really? I’m almost as handicapable as most monkeys.

Also, If it is coded to old keys, would a new key cut from the VIN still work?  
I’m debating just having new keys made but they want $20 just to do the VIN lookup.

Any thoughts?

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**Author:** ![91MR2](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/91mr2/32/7217_2.png) [@91MR2](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/91MR2)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/2 "2011-06-08T08:33:43Z")

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Fire/theft?

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**Author:** ![mike125k](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike125k/32/7282_2.png) [@mike125k](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/mike125k)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/3 "2011-06-08T08:38:14Z")

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Door lock cylinder? If so most lock smiths should be able to recode the tumbler to match your existing keys. I had it done before and it cost me under $10.

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**Author:** ![drvnkd](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/drvnkd/32/109615_2.png) [@drvnkd](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/drvnkd)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/4 "2011-06-08T08:39:30Z")

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Its the ignition. Can you adjust the existing to make up for wear and tear, or is it once and done?

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**Author:** ![mike125k](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike125k/32/7282_2.png) [@mike125k](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/mike125k)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/5 "2011-06-08T08:43:31Z")

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Ignition might have that GM Passlock or whatever the hell its called that needs to receive a signal from the key to start. If that’s the case you might be stuck with the dealer.

As far as the tumbler they’re generally little pins and springs that are set to match the teeth pattern of the key.

When I had it done it was on a door lock, so it was much simpler.

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**Author:** ![drvnkd](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/drvnkd/32/109615_2.png) [@drvnkd](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/drvnkd)\
**Post date:** [June 8, 2011, 8:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/coding-a-lock-cylinder/213255/6 "2011-06-08T08:47:38Z")

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I can pull the key/tumbler assembly in about 2 minutes. But I do not know how to modify the coding?

There are a bunch of brass sections that I imagine are what needs to move closer to the key.  
I should probably just google it.

The Key is pretty generic and blanks are $2