# Crushed Frame Rail, Help **URL:** \ **Category:** SON240sx Automotive\ **Created:** [April 12, 2006, 9:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847 "2006-04-12T09:06:10Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![the240sxone](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/4491bb/32.png) [@the240sxone](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/the240sxone)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 9:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/1 "2006-04-12T09:06:10Z")
I have a 1991 S-13 coupe. The frame rail is crushed on the passenger side about 50cms before the rear wheel, should I cut it out and put new steel in thier, or leave it, or do something different. Will it take alot out of the structure. ---
**Author:** ![snowboard\_240sx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/snowboard_240sx/32/5519_2.png) [@snowboard\_240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/snowboard_240sx)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 9:22am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/2 "2006-04-12T09:22:20Z")
get a new s13 just kidding…cut it out…put new frame in ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 2:36pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/3 "2006-04-12T14:36:38Z")
don’t cut it. leave it there unless it’s impeding something else… try to pull as much of it out as possible, (use lever bar and body puller )… then get a pc of 18ga sheet metal and have is C channeled to replicate the shape of the frame rail ( with overlap clearence) get some bonding agent ( most body shop suppliers will have it in one form or another… Sikaflex or 3M 5500, or a single stage bonding agent will do… coat the part with the bonding agent ( including tabs that will bond to the underside of the floor pan ), press it into place with a block and jack… while it’s held in place and not dry brill some 1/8" holes throught the tabs going to the floor pan and use 1/8" rivets to hold it in place as an extra mechanical bonding source… ---
**Author:** ![240SR](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/2/c0e974/32.png) [@240SR](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/240SR)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 3:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/4 "2006-04-12T15:37:50Z")
My front part of the frame has been cut out and replaced and its perfect. ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 6:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/5 "2006-04-12T18:33:25Z")
point is there is no need to cut it out if it can be salvaged, a replacement , unless your willing to go down to baremetal and redo the whole thing is not going to be as strong as the original. if you can do 1/2 worth of straightening, keep the rail contiguous then cap it , it will be considerably stronger. ---
**Author:** ![alesserfate](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/f6c823/32.png) [@alesserfate](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/alesserfate)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 6:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/6 "2006-04-12T18:47:16Z")
can you post some pictures ? im just curious… ---
**Author:** ![spilner](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/f17d59/32.png) [@spilner](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/spilner)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 10:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/7 "2006-04-12T22:31:58Z")
> [@BAS](#): > > don’t cut it. leave it there unless it’s impeding something else… try to pull as much of it out as possible, (use lever bar and body puller )… then get a pc of 18ga sheet metal and have is C channeled to replicate the shape of the frame rail ( with overlap clearence) get some bonding agent ( most body shop suppliers will have it in one form or another… Sikaflex or 3M 5500, or a single stage bonding agent will do… coat the part with the bonding agent ( including tabs that will bond to the underside of the floor pan ), press it into place with a block and jack… while it’s held in place and not dry brill some 1/8" holes throught the tabs going to the floor pan and use 1/8" rivets to hold it in place as an extra mechanical bonding source… yeah pry it back with a bar, talk about precision lol get it cut out and redone ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 12, 2006, 11:40pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/8 "2006-04-12T23:40:41Z")
Can’t really post pics because all it will look like is shaped sheet metal overlaying the rail… dosen’t really show the process. > [@alesserfate](#): > > can you post some pictures ? im just curious… ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 5:26am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/9 "2006-04-13T05:26:16Z")
Replace it… Bonding agent and rivits WTF… :roll: ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 9:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/10 "2006-04-13T09:32:36Z")
you have zero clue what your talking about… Automotive bonding agent is what is used to hold most major subframe sections together now. Not spot welds. efore you comment know what your commenting on . ---
**Author:** ![laurieandmike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/b9bd4f/32.png) [@laurieandmike](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/laurieandmike)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 9:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/11 "2006-04-13T09:44:28Z")
ya bonding agent is used now because it is cheaper and easier me myself dont trust it unless its on a new car because of contamiantion etc weld her up ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 11:17am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/12 "2006-04-13T11:17:42Z")
So you’d rather weaken the 20ga material with burn throughs, heat hardened zones & floor pan distortions through heat soak around the weld area then take the time to clean the surface and bond to it… ?? well whatever I’m sure like most, the easy way is generaly going to be the most accepted way to do it… rather then the ’ better’ way to do it. ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 11:22am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/13 "2006-04-13T11:22:34Z")
> [@laurieandmike](#): > > ya bonding agent is used now because it is cheaper and easier > me myself dont trust it unless its on a new car because of contamiantion etc > weld her up \ My point exactly… Just because a car manufacture does it to be easy/cheap doesn’t make it the best way to do it. So BAS… yea… ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 11:23am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/14 "2006-04-13T11:23:19Z")
> [@BAS](#): > > So you’d rather weaken the 20ga material with burn throughs, heat hardened zones & floor pan distortions through heat soak around the weld area then take the time to clean the surface and bond to it… ?? > > well whatever I’m sure like most, the easy way is generaly going to be the most accepted way to do it… rather then the ’ better’ way to do it. Sounds like you need to take a welding class. ---
**Author:** ![laurieandmike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/b9bd4f/32.png) [@laurieandmike](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/laurieandmike)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 11:57am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/15 "2006-04-13T11:57:37Z")
ya i am a welder been for 10 years now have fixed alot of frames as well made a couple compleat frames have donr pressure tests on weld verses bonding agents and as bonds being good the weld always won out if done right ---
**Author:** ![BAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bas/32/5540_2.png) [@BAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BAS)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 12:59pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/16 "2006-04-13T12:59:09Z")
> My point exactly… > > Just because a car manufacture does it to be easy/cheap doesn’t make it the best way to do it. > > So BAS… yea… 1st, Who said it was cheap and easy? 2nd, how the F\*\*k would you know anything about it if you’ve never used it , are you a welder ? have you used automotive adhesive in a position of tension, torsion and compression… do you ahving thing but your insipid comments to add ?? didn’t think so. > Sounds like you need to take a welding class. maybe you should check out my website for my welding ability before you comment… but then again it’s obvious you know nothing about either process so don’t bother. > ya i am a welder been for 10 years now > have fixed alot of frames as well made a couple compleat frames > have donr pressure tests on weld verses bonding agents and as bonds being good the weld always won out > if done right ``` what bonding agents did you use? single stage? dual? was it a poly ureathane? ureathane ? epoxy based ? On what was the test done? was it a clean surface ? did you back up the bonding agent with the above reccomended rivets ? did you wait for the proper cure time.. ``` You may be a welder but you obviously have no clue about how to use MODERN solutions… Welding is NOT the answer to everything … maybe if your some lame ass redneck who dosen’t know anything else but welding you MIGHT have an excuse. As a frame builder you should have been taught, from the very beginning, that the less heat you dump into the frame then less you bend/twist/weaken the frame with heat… and tube framing is not even close to uni body repair… 20-18 ga vs a min of .053" for cromoly… .092 -.128 for mild steel… not even a close comparison… ---
**Author:** ![laurieandmike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/b9bd4f/32.png) [@laurieandmike](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/laurieandmike)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 1:16pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/17 "2006-04-13T13:16:23Z")
i never bashed you at all …and who gives your the right to tell someone they have no clue about modern soloutions and i also been wrking on uni bodys as well as boxed tubed frames…i know the less heat the better …as for the bonding i have done tests with 3m testing labs as a part of ongoing tests into high pressure applications for steam work as well as oil related…and general applications we have put epoxys…polymers…all sort of diff combinations…on diff metals…plastics…clean…oily…rusty etc so i dont know what gives you the right …to call me a redneck…i never said that welding was the answer for everything…but my liquid cooled tig keeps a controlled heat with very little warpage is done right and i am always open to new things… ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 1:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/18 "2006-04-13T13:26:54Z")
Ahh Bas… your a moron I’m just tring to tick you off and make you type long winded explination no one cares about… it seems to have worked well. I’ve had my fun… long weekend time! ---
**Author:** ![Jedi\_Car\_Fan](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b9e5f3/32.png) [@Jedi\_Car\_Fan](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Jedi_Car_Fan)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 1:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/19 "2006-04-13T13:31:36Z")
> [@Hurricane](#): > > Ahh Bas… your a moron 2nd… also… do you even have a 240 ? cause Im sure “others would even agree with me” you dont (add) to this community one bit, you just start shit for no reason claiming to be the pro and know damn never EVEYTHING when in fact you have 0 experince & 0 education BUT… if perhaps you were a Certified Sheet Metal worker as well as a Certified Enginner, people “may” listen to you… do us all a favor and quit posting here 😉 ---
**Author:** ![DTS](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/8491ac/32.png) [@DTS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DTS)\ **Post date:** [April 13, 2006, 2:12pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847/20 "2006-04-13T14:12:28Z")
> [@BAS](#): > > you have zero clue what your talking about… > > Automotive bonding agent is what is used to hold most major subframe sections together now. Not spot welds. efore you comment know what your commenting on . incase you werent aware the S13 frame rails are spot welded to the floor of the car. [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/crushed-frame-rail-help/94847.md?page=2)