# custom box

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/custom-box/244259
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive
**Created:** [May 20, 2009, 7:15am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/custom-box/244259 "2009-05-20T07:15:49Z")
**Posts on this page:** 1
**Showing post:** 88

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### Author: ![1320-20V](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1320-20v/32/6474_2.png) [@1320-20V](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1320-20V)
#### Post date: [June 3, 2009, 8:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/custom-box/244259/88 "2009-06-03T20:46:38Z")

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> [@FS: 1990 lincoln cheap low miles cheap winter car](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-1990-lincoln-cheap-low-miles-cheap-winter-car/18612/9):
>
> This whole thread makes me :facepalm
> 
> Actually, this whole section does. I don’t know why I bother reading it. If anyone needs help from someone with over 10 years of car audio experience, PM me…

I prefer silk dome tweeters myself in passive crossover systems. Elaborate actively crossed over and equalized systems can run anything.

Always remember there is no more critical part of your system than the speakers themselves.

It is also important to know what your ultimate system will be. There is no need for Focal components if you have a spark-o-matic deck, with a discman and a tape adapter.

Conversely you don’t need Audison HR100’s running your factory speakers.

There is a reason why it is called a system, it all needs to work together.

I also would not buy anything before I listened to it in a proper setting.

Figure out what you want to end up with before you buy anything.

Quality speakers and amps should move with you from car to car for years.

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