# DIY: General Powdercoating basics **URL:** \ **Category:** Builds\ **Created:** [August 26, 2005, 5:06pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834 "2005-08-26T17:06:01Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:06pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/1 "2005-08-26T17:06:01Z")
I’ll use Brake calipers as an example since most people debate painting their calipers. I’ve had a lot of people ask me what the difference is between paint and PC. For calipers, you need high heat and abrasion reistance… Paint can’t hold up to the abrasive road debris and the in the long term, paint dulls and peels with the heat, even the “High temp” spray. Here’s a similar post i had on a BMW forum. Somebody had sent me their calipers to get powdercoated because they had spilled brake fluid on the paint. They thought they went about the process the right way. Took them off, cleaned them up, degreased them, and had automotive enamal sprayed on them. The guy went to bolt the calipers back on and got brake fluid on the paint…before he even got them on the car, the finish was ruined. This happened to all 4 calipers. Some wheel cleaners and constant abrasion from road debris beats them up just as bad, it just doesn’t hold up. this is the way they were sent to me: ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliper.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliper.jpg) ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpainted.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpainted.jpg) I decided to pour brake fluid on the calipers just to show how poor the paint’s chemical resistance is. the result: ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/paintedcaliper.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/paintedcaliper.jpg) freshly sprayed, uncured powder. ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpc.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpc.jpg) freshly cured, abrasion, stain, UV, and chemical resistant powdercoat. ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpc2.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/caliperpc2.jpg) Last step is to fill the embossed lettering in with white/silver powdercoat. haven’t done it yet though. SO, the PRO’s and CON’s of powdercoat. 1.) Powdercoat is more impact, chemical, UV, fade, abrasion, resistant then standard automotive paints. 2.) PC needs the propper prep work to work correctly (clean, bare metal surface… so does paint) 3.) Powdercoating only works on metals 4.) Powdercoating Powder needs to be heated (300°F - 500°F) for aprox. 20 mins to fully cure. Plastics/rubbers that can’t withstand the heat have to be removed from the workpiece (i.e. caliper seals) 5.) Powdercoating can be touched and used as soon as it’s cured or as soon as the workpiece cools enough to be touched. 6.) Powdercoating is difficult to remove once cured. (i.e. sandblast 5x’s longer then paint) 7.)Infintely different colors and textures and effects are available in PC. There are even powders available with heat resistance beyond 1200°F You can DIY with the cheap kits from harbor freight, but you are limited to the size of your oven. Also, because of chemical vapors, you can not reuse the oven for cooking…it’s offically a powdercoat oven once you use it. some other before and after’s. ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc1.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc1.jpg) ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc2.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc2.jpg) ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc3.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc3.jpg) ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc4.jpg](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/pc4.jpg) just an FYI. One side of the caliper says “UUC Motorwerks” (the distributer) while the backside says “SSBC” (the manufacturer)… before somebody posts a BS flag on my work. ---
**Author:** ![fairgentleman\_Z](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fairgentleman_z/32/7263_2.png) [@fairgentleman\_Z](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/fairgentleman_Z)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/2 "2005-08-26T17:11:03Z")
During what step of the process should a coat of urine be applied? ---
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/3 "2005-08-26T17:19:19Z")
> [@fairgentleman Z](#): > > During what step of the process should a coat of urine be applied? :lol: … that’s what’s used to remove the grease and the uric acid makes a great rust inhibitor for ferrous metals. ---
**Author:** ![HotRodKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/hotrodkid/32/7609_2.png) [@HotRodKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/HotRodKid)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/4 "2005-08-26T17:26:07Z")
nice job ! ot: pee is a great way to clean the shower floor too i once pissed on a white car like 3 times in the same spot on the same night … left and extra clean spot even after he washed it … we finaly had to use diluted wheel acid to make the car all the same color white again ---
**Author:** ![Jack](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/jack/32/7613_2.png) [@Jack](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Jack)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/5 "2005-08-26T17:29:18Z")
cost and turnaround time on valve cover? ---
**Author:** ![HotRodKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/hotrodkid/32/7609_2.png) [@HotRodKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/HotRodKid)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 5:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/6 "2005-08-26T17:33:56Z")
does the 1200 degree PC require extra heat to cure it , or can it be baked on at normal/ close to normal curing temps ? ---
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 6:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/7 "2005-08-26T18:30:29Z")
> [@Jack](#): > > cost and turnaround time on valve cover? cost and time depends on what surface preps need to be done before PCing. Best case scenerio is clean bare metal. If it is painted, then it needs to be sanblasted, usually only $5 or $10 more. If it has PC on it and it needs to be removed…that’s a pain in the ass and expect about $20 to remove it. Different colors as well as different colored lettering are a bit more expensive too. For instance, a 2 stage color (base reflective silver + a cover translucent blue), or coloring raised letters adds another step to the process. If you go to the local shops, its about $40-$50 to powdercoat a valvecover. The actual time needed to powdercoat a valvecover…is about an hour between setup, surface prep, spraying, and curing. If you dropped something off in the morning, it most likely will be sitting, waiting for you that afternoon. As far as high temp powders needing high curing temps… Generally, no powders require more than 500°F to cure. My favorite powders are by Dupont and Protech. Both over very durable powders and have very low temps with very quick cure times. (i.e. 6mins @ 285°F) ---
**Author:** ![Janny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/janny/32/7594_2.png) [@Janny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Janny)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 6:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/8 "2005-08-26T18:47:58Z")
beautiful work, josh. how much would it cost to powdercoat 4 stock WRX wheels gunmetal? black? (haven’t decided yet) 😃 ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 6:52pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/9 "2005-08-26T18:52:42Z")
i dont know much about powdercoating or the process at all, but how do u go about heating the parts, do u use some kind of booth or if the peice ur pc’ing is large how do u go about heating it? ---
**Author:** ![Rx3](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/rx3/32/7194_2.png) [@Rx3](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Rx3)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 6:58pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/10 "2005-08-26T18:58:10Z")
Oven. Like Betty Crocker. He even puts on a Chef-Boy-Ar-Dee hat when he is baking parts. 🤣 ---
**Author:** ![MaximaSE98](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/maximase98/32/7600_2.png) [@MaximaSE98](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/MaximaSE98)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 7:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/11 "2005-08-26T19:26:37Z")
josh might have to do my wheels this winter ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 8:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/12 "2005-08-26T20:30:07Z")
but what about wheels and shit that u cant fit into my easy-bake oven? ---
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 10:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/13 "2005-08-26T22:29:58Z")
Do i need to do a Build your own PowderCoat Oven DIY? ![http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/oven.JPG](http://ubrf.ddetail.com/lafengas/oven.JPG) ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [August 26, 2005, 11:05pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/14 "2005-08-26T23:05:51Z")
> [@LAFENGAS](#): > > cost and time depends on what surface preps need to be done before PCing. Best case scenerio is clean bare metal. If it is painted, then it needs to be sanblasted, usually only $5 or $10 more. If it has PC on it and it needs to be removed…that’s a pain in the ass and expect about $20 to remove it. > > Different colors as well as different colored lettering are a bit more expensive too. For instance, a 2 stage color (base reflective silver + a cover translucent blue), or coloring raised letters adds another step to the process. > > If you go to the local shops, its about $40-$50 to powdercoat a valvecover. > > The actual time needed to powdercoat a valvecover…is about an hour between setup, surface prep, spraying, and curing. If you dropped something off in the morning, it most likely will be sitting, waiting for you that afternoon. > > As far as high temp powders needing high curing temps… > > Generally, no powders require more than 500°F to cure. My favorite powders are by Dupont and Protech. Both over very durable powders and have very low temps with very quick cure times. (i.e. 6mins @ 285°F) Just make sure you degrease before you bead blast ---
**Author:** ![TRDHarrier](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/97f17d/32.png) [@TRDHarrier](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/TRDHarrier)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 3:16am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/15 "2005-08-27T03:16:03Z")
can u do my stock wheels??? ---
**Author:** ![MaximaSE98](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/maximase98/32/7600_2.png) [@MaximaSE98](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/MaximaSE98)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 6:02am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/16 "2005-08-27T06:02:15Z")
josh told me at cruise night that he is going to start advertising and getting prices out…so jsut be patient…i think he said something like 30-40 bux a wheel plus blasting…and that all depends on the wheel too…but he will give out the definate info at a later date ---
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 6:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/17 "2005-08-27T06:14:19Z")
> [@MaximaSE98](#): > > josh told me at cruise night that he is going to start advertising and getting prices out…so jsut be patient…i think he said something like 30-40 bux a wheel plus blasting…and that all depends on the wheel too…but he will give out the definate info at a later date :word: this is just a general INFORMATION thread on the Powdercoating basics. Also if you wanted to DIY in your own home. ---
**Author:** ![LAFENGAS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/lafengas/32/7573_2.png) [@LAFENGAS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LAFENGAS)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 6:24am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/18 "2005-08-27T06:24:42Z")
> [@JnJSpdShop](#): > > Just make sure you degrease before you bead blast that’s a good point. I included in the “surface prep”…it’s something i do to every piece anyways. that’s done for a few reasons.3 1.) I don’t want grease and oils to accumulate in my blasting cabinet. 2.) so it doesn’t push the grease/oils into the metal’s porous surface (especailly on cast aluminum) - oils that are covered with powder will bubble up through the powdercoat while it cures. Basically screwing up the surface finish. I remember doing somebody’s cam gears… and i couldn’t get the oil out. I baked them and baked them to get the oil out and nothing works. So some pieces like that are lost causes. ---
**Author:** ![catalyst](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/catalyst/32/7279_2.png) [@catalyst](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/catalyst)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 9:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/19 "2005-08-27T09:33:31Z")
> [@LAFENGAS](#): > > Do i need to do a Build your own PowderCoat Oven DIY? Yes, that is a write up I am interested in. Where did you find the heating elements and controls? Old Ovens? ---
**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\ **Post date:** [August 27, 2005, 3:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834/20 "2005-08-27T15:43:59Z")
yeah i think i might need that one too, im utterly interested in doing it, i suppose it would require a welder, a few old household ovens and a crapload of steel. i suppose its do-able. [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-general-powdercoating-basics/1834.md?page=2)