# FAST motorsports in Albany, NY (Attn: All LS vehicles) **URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fast-motorsports-in-albany-ny-attn-all-ls-vehicles/249044 **Category:** Shift518 Automotive **Created:** [December 13, 2009, 5:52pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fast-motorsports-in-albany-ny-attn-all-ls-vehicles/249044 "2009-12-13T17:52:31Z") **Posts on this page:** 1 **Showing post:** 171
### Author: ![262](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/2/439d5e/32.png) [@262](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/262) #### Post date: [December 27, 2009, 10:53pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fast-motorsports-in-albany-ny-attn-all-ls-vehicles/249044/171 "2009-12-27T22:53:02Z")
> [@2054 Lexus concept car on ebay](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/2054-lexus-concept-car-on-ebay/27723/32): > > i’ll still take a DYNO tune over a “country road” tune! Seen plenty of tuning getting done and doing it right involves the right equipment and quite a bit of time. Its literally impossible to keep an engine at steady state on the street to properly dial in the MAF curve and the VE tables. By the time you do it right you are looking at min. of 3-4 hours per car. Most reputable shops will dial in most of the tune in this manner and then fine tune transition stuff on the street and check for drivability things. As I have been told if you get the MAF/VE stuff nailed you will be in good shape with all the other adjustments. The right tools including a proper datalogger, a good knowledge base, a quality wideband that is calibrated and a couple spare plugs. Done on the street or done on a dyno can yield the same results. Yes its nice and all to do steady state tuning but if you are road tuning and dont use quick abrupt throttle changes you will build a model by making sweeps across a range of cells to increase counts to the point to use it as data to tweak from. Same on a dyno or the road if its really far off you quickly make changes then build form thre. Correct VE/MAF tuning is the ONLY way to get the rest of the tune correct. You hack these the rest of the tune is hacked and carries more and more flaws that begin to stack. > [@rust in piece](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-in-piece/27762/8): > > aahhhhh, im well aware of “street tuning” obviously! All cars that come in the shop start off on the dyno then Howard takes the car on the street and dials in everything. There is a hell of a difference in starting on a dyno and finishing on the street as opposed to starting/finishing on a “country road” If the proper time and techniques are used there should be no difference between any tune no matter where it starts and ends. My personal favorite is street tune to nail it 99% then take it to the track to make it ET the best then go back and throw it on the dyno. Just so you can have a piece of paper to know your numbers. Also is nice to see where it does end up making peak HP and peak torque for later changes in the torque converter or gearing to use your power more wisely. Getting stuck on dyno numbers and peak power does NOT win races. Its justa tool and not something that you should live by. Also, with the load based dyno’s you still rely on the operator loading the car correctly. Out of the street the load is the load. > [@On another topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/22904/149): > > a dyno is good for AFR tweaking…not daily driving. A dyno is just another tool and resource for tuning in general. Something to be used along with other tools and knowledge for a tuner to be able to do his/her job --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fast-motorsports-in-albany-ny-attn-all-ls-vehicles/249044)._