# Finishing Basement

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729>\
**Category:** NYSpeed Off Topic\
**Created:** [February 2, 2014, 7:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729 "2014-02-02T19:02:50Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 9:40am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/21 "2014-02-03T09:40:04Z")

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looks like a nice project.

> [@jimmyfloyd](#):
>
> We have to include an egress window in order to get a permit to remodel the basement, whether there is a bedroom or not.

it’s pretty clear this is being done without a permit. (which is what most people tend to do to save on taxes, cost, and hassle). The big downside is that selling can be tricky. Put anything about this area in the listings and a lot of towns will bust you.

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**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 9:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/22 "2014-02-03T09:41:10Z")

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Mesh tape will crack without the proper compound mix (not premix in buckets)  
Like tpgsr said you should put windows in to make it actually count towards sq ft

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**Author:** ![LUKE\_L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/luke_l/32/7462_2.png) [@LUKE\_L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LUKE_L)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 9:57am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/23 "2014-02-03T09:57:38Z")

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> [@Tbirdsc1](#):
>
> Yes it works great. It’s something my dad fabbed up, I think you use to be able to buy them in HD or somewhere but not sure anymore. Very simple DIY and great to use for drywall, sawdust, really anything you dont want in the air.

I am either not paying attention or not getting this concept…does the hose from the sander go to the top of the bucket and the shop vac also goes to the top of the bucket? Any access floats on the water…? I’m a little fuzzy today apparently and I cannot visualize this working.

> [@theblue](#):
>
> it’s pretty clear this is being done without a permit. (which is what most people tend to do to save on taxes, cost, and hassle). The big downside is that selling can be tricky. Put anything about this area in the listings and a lot of towns will bust you.

list as “partially finished basement.” should be fine. You definitely cannot add sq-ft or room count other than the bathroom as another full/half.

> [@deebo](#):
>
> Mesh tape will crack without the proper compound mix (not premix in buckets)  
> Like tpgsr said you should put windows in to make it actually count towards sq ft

Both are true. Be VERY careful using pre-mix on mesh tape. If you can’t avoid it apply multiple thin coats and wait a full 12 hours between coats to allow everything to cure. If you can heat the area that helps a lot.

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**Author:** ![deebo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/deebo/32/5218_2.png) [@deebo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/deebo)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 10:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/24 "2014-02-03T10:00:36Z")

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Or if anything happens with your house insurance will NOT cover anything

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**Author:** ![Tbirdsc1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tbirdsc1/32/7487_2.png) [@Tbirdsc1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tbirdsc1)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 11:08am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/25 "2014-02-03T11:08:42Z")

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> [@tpgsr](#):
>
> Without an egress it is not added into the SqFt of the home. With proper egress it will be. It looks open enough to not be a huge hazard, but I would make sure to put a few Smoke/CO2 units down there.

Yes not looking to sell the house for 15+ years, we had our dream house built and knew we wanted to finish the basement at some point. 2 smoke and 2 CO’s already installed and yes it’s very open. It’s more just useable space for us now, not true added sqft per selling terms but that I don’t mind. Just somewhere to drink, watch 100" HiDef and some more room for the kids to roam.

> [@deebo](#):
>
> Mesh tape will crack without the proper compound mix (not premix in buckets)  
> Like tpgsr said you should put windows in to make it actually count towards sq ft

Yes we’re using regular tape not mesh and no premix, all hand mixed. Drywall was glued and screwed too for less screws and less cracking.

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    - Updated - - -

> [@LUKE\_L](#):
>
> I am either not paying attention or not getting this concept…does the hose from the sander go to the top of the bucket and the shop vac also goes to the top of the bucket? Any access floats on the water…? I’m a little fuzzy today apparently and I cannot visualize this working.

Don’t have it here yet for a true pic but it’s something like that but with a pole sander. Dust goes through water and kills almost all airborne soot, just need to change the water every so often. If you are needing to do any major drywall work its 110% worth the DIY time spent to make it. I can get real pics and specs when I pick it up from him.

![http://s3.amazonaws.com/cooltools_legacy/archives/sandkleen2.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/2/2/2273392dee0092e25594f7cadc5041bab875add2.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![rugsr](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/rugsr/32/7474_2.png) [@rugsr](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/rugsr)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 11:08am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/26 "2014-02-03T11:08:46Z")

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When I find time to do mine I plan on using some of this stuff. Nice and tight to the ceiling

[http://www.ceilinglink.com/index.html](http://www.ceilinglink.com/index.html)

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**Author:** ![JayS](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/jays/32/15375_2.png) [@JayS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JayS)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 11:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/27 "2014-02-03T11:18:15Z")

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Here’s a DIY for the water trap vacuum thing. I’ll be building one before I start my next drywall project.

> **[Drywall Sanding Dust Collector/Separator](http://www.instructables.com/id/Drywall-Sanding-Dust-CollectorSeperator/)**
>
> Drywall sanding produces lots of dust no matter how dust free your joint compound claims to be, Drywall dust will quickly clog your shop vac filter and shorten the...

Then buying this:

> **[Hyde Tools 09170 Dust-Free Drywall Vacuum Sander - Vacuum And Dust Collector Accessories - Amazon.com](https://www.amazon.com/Hyde-09170-Dust-Free-Drywall-Vacuum/dp/B000M2WSHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391455216&sr=8-1&keywords=pole+sander+vacuum)**
>
> Dust-free pole sander. Features faster, easier abrasive loading; universal joint; vacuum control valve; hose coupling adaptors; flexible non-clogging hose; and swivel hose connectors. Fits any extensi ...

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**Author:** ![LUKE\_L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/luke_l/32/7462_2.png) [@LUKE\_L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LUKE_L)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 11:49am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/28 "2014-02-03T11:49:33Z")

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> [@Tbirdsc1](#):
>
> Don’t have it here yet for a true pic but it’s something like that but with a pole sander. Dust goes through water and kills almost all airborne soot, just need to change the water every so often. If you are needing to do any major drywall work its 110% worth the DIY time spent to make it. I can get real pics and specs when I pick it up from him.
> 
> ![http://s3.amazonaws.com/cooltools_legacy/archives/sandkleen2.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/2/2/2273392dee0092e25594f7cadc5041bab875add2.jpeg)

Ah…OK. I got it. This will be needed for the coming summer months.

> [@JayS](#):
>
> Here’s a DIY for the water trap vacuum thing. I’ll be building one before I start my next drywall project.
> 
> [http://www.instructables.com/id/Drywall-Sanding-Dust-CollectorSeperator/](http://www.instructables.com/id/Drywall-Sanding-Dust-CollectorSeperator/)
> 
> Then buying this:
> 
> [http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-09170-Dust-Free-Drywall-Vacuum/dp/B000M2WSHY/ref=sr\_1\_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391455216&sr=8-1&keywords=pole+sander+vacuum](http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-09170-Dust-Free-Drywall-Vacuum/dp/B000M2WSHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391455216&sr=8-1&keywords=pole+sander+vacuum)

Thanks so much for this info… \<3

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**Author:** ![neonglh](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/neonglh/32/4951_2.png) [@neonglh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/neonglh)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 12:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/29 "2014-02-03T12:30:05Z")

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I see the house had the original builders insulation on the walls, but did you do any more insulation behind the drywall? You normally need a vapor barrier, such as a 2" foam panel, to create a thermal break and prevent any condensation from forming behind the wall. Was there any thought to that here?

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**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 1:05pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/30 "2014-02-03T13:05:40Z")

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poured concrete walls are awesome and make this almost a non-issue.

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**Author:** ![neonglh](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/neonglh/32/4951_2.png) [@neonglh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/neonglh)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 1:10pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/31 "2014-02-03T13:10:53Z")

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> [@theblue](#):
>
> poured concrete walls are awesome and make this almost a non-issue.

How so? Ignoring water seepage, the concrete walls are going to be a different temperature than the basement air, which can cause condensation. An insulated wall prevents the warmer home air from ever touching the cooler walls, eliminating the chance of sweating.

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**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 2:00pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/32 "2014-02-03T14:00:41Z")

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from the pics you can see he still has the “stock” stuff and then studs past that so this is more than enough gap to take care of it as long as the room can stay dehumidified.

My basement is poured and I’ve never seen a drop of moisture anywhere and I’d do the same as him in a second. The cinder block house next door is damp to the touch in the basement often.

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**Author:** ![Tbirdsc1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tbirdsc1/32/7487_2.png) [@Tbirdsc1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tbirdsc1)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 2:17pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/33 "2014-02-03T14:17:52Z")

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> [@theblue](#):
>
> from the pics you can see he still has the “stock” stuff and then studs past that so this is more than enough gap to take car of it as long as the room can stay dehumidified.
> 
> My basement is poured and I’ve never seen a drop of moisture anywhere and I’d do the same as him in a second. The ciderblock house next door is damp to the touch in the basement often.

Spot on, yes we left a small gap between wrapped wall insulation and the studs and there will be a dehumidifier during the summer. We never had any water issues/condensation problems. There was no insulation around the garage foundation so in that area yes we took care of a new vapor barrier. We also have drop ceiling in the larger areas so it’s not a true sealed cavity and moisture will not be trapped.

Pourced concrete alleviates a lot of the condensation issues compared to cinder block. But you still should not butt the studs/sills directly against the builder wrap.

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**Author:** ![slo\_ride](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/49beb7/32.png) [@slo\_ride](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/slo_ride)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 4:39pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/34 "2014-02-03T16:39:46Z")

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although it may not matter here…condensation comes from the space not the walls…moisture coming out of a CMU or concrete wall is being driven in from the outside. White crystalline buildup is evidence of this as that material is being driven out of the wall. Condensation is from the moist air in the space meeting the cool foundation wall…if it is at or below the dew point you get condensation…just like you would on a cool pipe.

If there isn’t air circulating along the face of the foundation wall it will tend to be closer to the ground temperature than the space temperature. When the surface is open and the space is tempered in some way this usually isn’t a problem. Once you put a wall in front of the foundation wall face you have cut off the air circulation. You have also cut off easy access to the surface for warm moist air which helps. Ultimately though air will get back there and condense. The benefit of closed cell insulation is that although it allows the foundation wall to become even cooler still…it moves the dew point away for the surface of the wall into the insulation. Since it is closed cell there is no moisture there to condense and where there is moisture the surface is above the dew point.

You very well could be perfectly fine…or you could have mold growing out of your outlet covers in a year. It’ll probably be somewhere between.

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    - Updated - - -

> [@Tbirdsc1](#):
>
> Still 50/50 on that decision, either cutting or looking into a multi-input macerator that can handle 3 inputs and do 30 vertical feet and 150 horizontal. I only need 8 ft up and 15 ft across to reach my main septic run. We did not fully frame out the bathroom area as that will be one of the last to-do’s.
> 
> Having a close plumbing friend stop out to give me some options/ideas for us to do, but I’m thinking cutting will be the best.

I’ll probably be doing my basement sometime in the next year…I’ll definitely have to cut the slab and I’m dreading it…it’s a very dry basement and I hate the thought of poking a hole in it

as for all of the MLS talk…most realtors aren’t going to distinguish between permitted space and non-permitted space when putting the information in the listing. Where trouble may start would be for a refinance, but only in so far as a lender may not want to give any value to a space that isn’t permitted. As it is a basement the area and rooms don’t count toward the gross living area or room count from the lenders perspective anyway because it is below grade. so it probably wouldn’t hurt you too much unless you thought you were going to turn around and try to cash out some equity when the project was done.

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**Author:** ![honda4life](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/honda4life/32/5300_2.png) [@honda4life](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/honda4life)\
**Post date:** [February 3, 2014, 6:04pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/35 "2014-02-03T18:04:05Z")

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Wow this looks great, I love seeing a basement finished

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**Author:** ![LUKE\_L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/luke_l/32/7462_2.png) [@LUKE\_L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LUKE_L)\
**Post date:** [February 6, 2014, 6:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/36 "2014-02-06T06:43:44Z")

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> [@slo ride](#):
>
> although it may not matter here…condensation comes from the space not the walls…

This. One tip I read was to leave the bottom and top joints open about 1/4 inch to allow air to circulate. This is a little tricky with longitudinal studs but you could easily help hide the gap with some molding that is undercut.

Also, avoid plastic barrier against the bare concrete. Plastic should only be used if the concrete is SEALED and if you are going to insulate. Otherwise it holds moisture in place. For bare concrete in your basement your better off leaving a 1/2 gap between the framing and the foundation. Hang your wall and be done! 🙂

Side note. My walls previously were sealed with what appeared to be 10 mil barrier. There was a ton of crystalline I had to etch off prior to sealing.

Not the best clarity but amidst my nut collection you can see the white “powder” on the walls. All this had to come off:

 ![http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t167/llorentz/House/Basement/0929011938_zps260bcceb.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/a/2/a2213aa362ba7a838059028045616b5eed939474.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![Tbirdsc1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tbirdsc1/32/7487_2.png) [@Tbirdsc1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tbirdsc1)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2014, 8:13pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/37 "2014-02-11T20:13:25Z")

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Back at it…snowmobiling and Snocross races took over for the last week lol  
Bag of 20 set, some EDM on the speakers and a 6 pack of Sierra Nevada IPA’s tonight to start mudding the screw holes.  
Taping and lots more mudding start this weekend. Will post some more progress pics soon.

![http://s16.postimg.org/n3iae7vx1/IMG_2108.jpg](http://s16.postimg.org/n3iae7vx1/IMG_2108.jpg)

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**Author:** ![1QIKZ](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1qikz/32/6112_2.png) [@1QIKZ](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1QIKZ)\
**Post date:** [February 11, 2014, 9:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/38 "2014-02-11T21:45:55Z")

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I’ve never seen anyone use beer with 20 but if it works for you, go with it.

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**Author:** ![tpgsr](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tpgsr/32/7374_2.png) [@tpgsr](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/tpgsr)\
**Post date:** [February 12, 2014, 4:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/39 "2014-02-12T04:38:23Z")

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I’ve never seen anyone successfully mud a room with 20 set that shit is unworkable nearly as fast as it is mixed. Good luck!

edit: i read again. Screw holes. Duh.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Tbirdsc1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/tbirdsc1/32/7487_2.png) [@Tbirdsc1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tbirdsc1)\
**Post date:** [February 12, 2014, 6:24am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/finishing-basement/234729/40 "2014-02-12T06:24:47Z")

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> [@1QIKZ](#):
>
> I’ve never seen anyone use beer with 20 but if it works for you, go with it.

Yes i read somewhere never to use water, must use delicious beer with 20 set :tup:

> [@tpgsr](#):
>
> I’ve never seen anyone successfully mud a room with 20 set that shit is unworkable nearly as fast as it is mixed. Good luck!
> 
> edit: i read again. Screw holes. Duh.

Hahaha, I would have to be Superman to tape and mud with 20 set. Just screw holes only, had a long day at work and didn’t feel like taping yet…started with something “easy”.

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