# Garage floor advice thread **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Off Topic\ **Created:** [September 21, 2009, 2:57pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843 "2009-09-21T14:57:42Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 10:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/21 "2009-09-22T10:56:01Z")
I disagree because at the end of the day epoxy is nothing special. It comes down to thickness, preparation, application, and waiting for it to cure. I looked at a bunch of tech articles on the different epoxy and while the numbers do vary, nothing jumped out to show the expensive stuff being worth 6x as much. there is no rocket science here. People will take more care and pay better attention when they pay more for a product. This is why people love Zaino wax… they half ass $5 off the shelf waxes, then go and buy Zaino and spend two weeks applying it with anal-retentive attention to detail, then they give all the credit to the over-priced wax. ---
**Author:** ![Muckman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/7ab992/32.png) [@Muckman](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Muckman)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/22 "2009-09-22T11:12:49Z")
I agree its all in the prep. I used 2 of the Epoxy kits from Sears to cover my 2.5 stall garage. The floor was brand new so there was no issue with prep and its going on 5 years now, no issues at all. ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:13am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/23 "2009-09-22T11:13:09Z")
a nice “how to” > **[How to Epoxy-Coat a Garage Floor](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-epoxy-coat-garage-floor)** > > Epoxy not only tops off the pro look of a garage but also resists oil stains, beads water, and wipes clean also, I’m considering a urethane top coat. hmm… ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:23am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/24 "2009-09-22T11:23:56Z")
> [@Muckman](#): > > I agree its all in the prep. I used 2 of the Epoxy kits from Sears to cover my 2.5 stall garage. The floor was brand new so there was no issue with prep and its going on 5 years now, no issues at all. did you put a urethane clear coat on top? do you wish that you did? ---
**Author:** ![ieatpaint](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ieatpaint/32/7311_2.png) [@ieatpaint](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ieatpaint)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/25 "2009-09-22T11:37:38Z")
I really don’t care what people buy, I know youre not buying my product, but when someone thinks their $50 kit is as good as a $120 kit that’s dumb. I sell both types, I have PPG’s megaseal at $120 a kit and Insl-x at $70 a kit. The ppg lasts over twice as long under the same conditions, proven many times over. I do this for a living so I get to see what works and what doesn’t. But your online research def. will prove my 5+yrs of epoxy and coatings training and selling wrong. Be sure to wear your cleats when you put the paint down. ---
**Author:** ![walter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/walter/32/7202_2.png) [@walter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/walter)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/26 "2009-09-22T11:42:57Z")
> [@theblue](#): > > I disagree because at the end of the day epoxy is nothing special. It comes down to thickness, preparation, application, and waiting for it to cure. I looked at a bunch of tech articles on the different epoxy and while the numbers do vary, nothing jumped out to show the expensive stuff being worth 6x as much. > > there is no rocket science here. > > People will take more care and pay better attention when they pay more for a product. This is why people love Zaino wax… they half ass $5 off the shelf waxes, then go and buy Zaino and spend two weeks applying it with anal-retentive attention to detail, then they give all the credit to the over-priced wax. That is more than just a stretch. There is a huge difference between quality paint and epoxy products. Sure, the reason most DIY people have failures in a year is because of user error. However the reality is that over the LONG TERM there is going to be a difference in durability, unless you plan on living in your house under 5 years, everything I’ve seen is that it is worth to also invest in some of the higher end materials. Am I implying that cost = better performance? No, I’m saying that there are higher performance products that will out perform the off the shelf products you find at Sears and Home Depot. One would think comparing the durability of Subaru paint would be a more accurate comparison, I could drive my car half way across the parking lot and that stuff would have chipped. ---
**Author:** ![walter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/walter/32/7202_2.png) [@walter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/walter)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:46am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/27 "2009-09-22T11:46:59Z")
For anyone that is bored, haven’t read up in a long time - [http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20](http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20) Seems that VCT is a popular choice these days though. ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:48am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/28 "2009-09-22T11:48:59Z")
we are going to find out I guess… any comments on urethane top coats / recommendations… that’s my current research area. ---
**Author:** ![ieatpaint](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ieatpaint/32/7311_2.png) [@ieatpaint](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ieatpaint)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:53am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/29 "2009-09-22T11:53:25Z")
make sure the urethane wont lift your current coating. urethanes often involve very “hot” solvents that will wrinkle most paints. ---
**Author:** ![ieatpaint](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ieatpaint/32/7311_2.png) [@ieatpaint](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ieatpaint)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:55am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/30 "2009-09-22T11:55:00Z")
oh, one more thing regarding your epoxy, make absolutley sure it says salt and chemical resistant. salt is an epoxy destroyer. ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 11:55am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/31 "2009-09-22T11:55:37Z")
that is what I’m becoming worried about with this product… it doesn’t mention anything about coating on top with urethane and I don’t really trust random people at sears to give me good info on this. ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2009, 12:00pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/32 "2009-09-22T12:00:31Z")
from sears: Two-Part “Cross-Link” bonding formula, the paint base and activator, when mixed and applied together, create a hard epoxy finish that is durable, easy to clean, and resists scuffing and marring. ``` * Easy to use, mix and apply with one coat coverage and soap and water cleanup * Kit contains paint (base and activator), decorative chips, floor cleaner, stir stick and instructions * Resists salt, grease, gasoline, and oil * Resist Hot Tire pickup * One coat application covers 300 - 350 square feet ``` warranty is one year and pretty limited. ---
**Author:** ![JeremyNYR](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@JeremyNYR](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JeremyNYR)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 12:25pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/33 "2009-09-30T12:25:14Z")
I used a Rustoleum brand kit I got from Lowes this past summer and it looks great. It was a 2-part epoxy and so far the durability has been great. I just spread the flakes by hand after painting roughly a 5’x5’ square. The only caution I would give is that you probably won’t cover the square feet that the box says you will. I figure their number is based on a perfectly smooth floor and mine certainly isn’t perfectly smooth. ---
**Author:** ![brilliantyellowg60](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/6f9a4e/32.png) [@brilliantyellowg60](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/brilliantyellowg60)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 12:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/34 "2009-09-30T12:46:15Z")
I used the behr stuff from home depot and it came out good but mine was fresh concrete so not much prepping necessary front section wasnt done in this pic, but it is now ![http://www.smokedtires.com/dubr/kcleary/Garage/done.jpg](http://www.smokedtires.com/dubr/kcleary/Garage/done.jpg) to get the flakes uniform you throw them up in the air and let them settle ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 12:50pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/35 "2009-09-30T12:50:32Z")
your barn is looking great!! so jealous. throwing the flakes up is my plan. My floor is ready to go… just need to wait for this weekend for it to be warm enough. (55 degrees) ---
**Author:** ![91MR2](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/91mr2/32/7217_2.png) [@91MR2](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/91MR2)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 1:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/36 "2009-09-30T13:47:32Z")
I powerwashed my floor yesterday, weather pending, will be epoxying tomorrow… ---
**Author:** ![Storamin](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/9fc348/32.png) [@Storamin](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Storamin)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 5:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/37 "2009-09-30T17:30:11Z")
> [@brilliantyellowg60](#): > > I used the behr stuff from home depot and it came out good > > but mine was fresh concrete so not much prepping necessary > > front section wasnt done in this pic, but it is now > > ![http://www.smokedtires.com/dubr/kcleary/Garage/done.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/e/5/e5bb9fa1994c0a041f819c228210d0608a52b2e7.jpeg) > > to get the flakes uniform you throw them up in the air and let them settle how many VWs can you fit in the barn? ---
**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\ **Post date:** [October 2, 2009, 9:23am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/38 "2009-10-02T09:23:14Z")
So I painted earlier today since there are no signs the weather will be improving for me. I hung a space heater over the floor and set it for 68 degrees then proceeded to paint: During: [http://twitpic.com/jykij/full](http://twitpic.com/jykij/full) Done: > **[Finished. Now for the drying. Note the hanging space heater in previous pic....](https://twitpic.com/jykom)** > > Finished. Now for the drying. Note the hanging space heater in previous pic. Need to keep it warm and dry. I used two full kits with none to spare. I have a third kit that I’m going to hold on to and use to fix any imperfections in the spring. ---
**Author:** ![Cavi\_Mike](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/cavi_mike/32/5217_2.png) [@Cavi\_Mike](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Cavi_Mike)\ **Post date:** [October 2, 2009, 9:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/39 "2009-10-02T09:28:24Z")
How is this stuff with metal wheels(jacks) all over it? At every shop I’ve worked it’s bubbled, cracked or chunks are missing. ---
**Author:** ![Viper966](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/viper966/32/7268_2.png) [@Viper966](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Viper966)\ **Post date:** [October 4, 2009, 8:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843/40 "2009-10-04T20:02:13Z")
mine bubbled a bit when i first used my jack… im kind of pissed about it, considering i spent ~ 600 bux on the kit for a full blown industrial coating… [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843.md?page=1) [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/garage-floor-advice-thread/73843.md?page=3)