# Gunsmith - ing **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Off Topic\ **Created:** [December 29, 2014, 9:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gunsmith-ing/271355 "2014-12-29T09:41:49Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 4\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\ **Post date:** [December 29, 2014, 9:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gunsmith-ing/271355/1 "2014-12-29T09:41:49Z")
Anyone do any of their own gunsmithing? I’ve put together a bunch of Ar-15s, they are super easy to work with. The reason I’m posting this is really to find some tips and tricks. My dad gave me an old Rossi 68 .38special which is super similar to a S&W Model 10. The Rossi will fire soft loads but anything hard, the hammer might not hit with enough force to shoot the bullet. I’ve pulled it apart and nothing is really damaged. I’m thinking about replacing the hammer Nose (30) and Main Spring (39). It only seems logical that the spring could be weak or the nose might be too warn. Any ideas? The only kicker is I can’t really find parts for this gun online, so I might order the Smith & Wesson parts and try to fit them myself. I’m not sure why this picture isn’t linking… Here is a good write up on how to take apart a revolver, specifically this model Rossi. > Rossi Model 68 > Similar/Identical Pattern Guns > The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Rossi Model 68 also apply to the following guns. > Rossi Model 88 Rossi Model 511 Rossi Model 951 > Rossi Model 971 > Data: > Origin: > Manufacturer: > Cartridge: > Cylinder capacity: > Overall length: > Barrel length: > Weight: > Rossi Model 68 > Brazil > Amadeo Rossi, S.A., > Sao Leopoldo > 38 Special > 5 rounds > 7 inches > (with 23/i6 -inch barrel) > 23/i6 inches > (3-inch available) > 22 ounces > With the exception of its removable hammer spring base > and rear sight arrangement, the Rossi design is very close > to the small-frame Smith & Wesson. The Model 68 was > introduced in 1978, is still in production, and is imported > by Interarms. The other models of the Rossi, listed in the > cross-references, differ only in construction material, > sights, or other features that do not relate to takedown. > 279 > 280 : Rossi Model 68 > Disassembly: > " | Remove the front sideplate screw, located just forward O > of the trigger on the right side. " > Move the crane forward out of the frame and remove > the cylinder and crane assembly toward the left. > Rossi Model 68: 281 > 2 Remove the crane from the front of the cylinder. > [ Grip the ejector rod with leather-padded smooth- > " jawed pliers, and unscrew it counterclockwise (front > view). Remove the ejector rod from the front of the > cylinder. > :.,.W.#’ > 282 : Rossi Model 68 > C Remove the cylinder lock pin from the front of the C Remove the ejector spring from the front of the > cylinder, along with its spring. v" cylinder. > Rossi Model 68: 283 > Remove the ejector/ratchet from the rear of the > cylinder. > Q Remove the two remaining sideplate screws on the > w " right side of the frame. Hold the gun as shown, and > tap the grip frame with a nylon or plastic mallet until > the sideplate falls into the palm of the hand. > 284 : Rossi Model 68 > Q The hammer block will likely come off with the > ^ " sideplate, but it is shown here in the proper position > for reassembly, along with the other internal parts. > Q Grip the upper neck of the hammer strut with > smooth-jawed sharp-nosed pliers, and move it > slightly downward against the tension of the hammer > spring, then ease it out toward the right and > upward for removal. > Rossi Model 68: 285 > Take care not to lose the hammer spring cup, as it > " will be freed when the spring and strut are removed. > O Move the cylinder latch to the rear, hold it there, and > pull the trigger to tip the hammer back. Remove the > hammer toward the right. Drifting out the small pin > at the front of the hammer will allow removal of the > double-action lever and its spring. > 286 : Rossi Model 68 > Q Insert a small screwdriver into the rear of the > rebound slide, and lift it outward off its post in the > frame. The released spring will be caught on the > shaft of the screwdriver. Remove the rebound slide > and spring toward the rear. > A Tip the cylinder hand out of its slot toward the rear, > and remove the trigger toward the right. > Rossi Model 68: 287 > 1 g Use a screwdriver to depress the cylinder stop > C Remove the cylinder hand from the right side of the • w« D e | O W n s s | 0 t , n t n e f r ame, and a smaller one to > trigger. Drifting out the small pin at the top of the nudge the stop out toward the right. Take care to > trigger will release the cylinder hand spring for restrain the cylinder stop spring at the front, as it > removal. The larger pin at the center of the trigger will be released as the spring clears the edge of the > retains the trigger strut. recess in the frame. > 288 : Rossi Model 68 > 7 Remove the screw which retains the cylinder latch > ’ " thumbpiece, and take off the thumbpiece toward > the left. > Q Move the internal portion of the cylinder latch all the > " • way to the rear, then remove it toward the right. > Take care to restrain the small spring and plunger > at the rear of the latch, as these parts will be > released as they clear the edge of the frame > recess. Removal of the two small screws on each > side at the top of the frame will allow removal of the > rear sight blade. > Rossi Model 68: 289 > Q Drifting out the cross-pin in the barrel underlug will > release the front latch plunger and spring for 20 T n e n a m m e r s P n n 9 D a s e is retained by a cross-pin > removal toward the rear. fc v • in the frontstrap of the grip frame. > Reassembly Tips: > •fl When replacing the cylinder hand on the trigger, insert > a small screwdriver into the rear of the trigger and lift > the rear arm of the cylinder hand spring as the hand > is moved into the trigger. The rear arm of the spring > must rest on top of the smaller forward pin on the > inside of the hand. ---
**Author:** ![llink78](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/llink78/32/8037_2.png) [@llink78](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/llink78)\ **Post date:** [December 29, 2014, 9:50am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gunsmith-ing/271355/2 "2014-12-29T09:50:03Z")
Iv built a few ar’s and ak’s. Did a few trigger swaps on some bolt actions but that’s about it. I’d take the springs to a shop near you. Maybe they can match them up or give you a good lead. ---
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [December 29, 2014, 9:54am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gunsmith-ing/271355/3 "2014-12-29T09:54:18Z")
I think this requires an actual gun smith and not the advanced lego skills it takes to assemble an AR or AK lol ---
**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\ **Post date:** [December 29, 2014, 10:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/gunsmith-ing/271355/4 "2014-12-29T10:30:42Z")
Kicker is the guns isn’t really worth anything both monetarily or emotionally. These things sell for like $200 now, so I’d hate to drop it off at a gun smith for a $5 spring and a $9 pin and have him charge me $100. At that point it rather just hang it on my wall for free.