# hey lets here your engine build

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834>\
**Category:** SON240sx Automotive\
**Created:** [September 7, 2009, 6:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834 "2009-09-07T18:33:52Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 3

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**Author:** ![Solarian](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/solarian/32/5514_2.png) [@Solarian](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Solarian)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 7:04am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/41 "2009-09-10T07:04:51Z")

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Rotaries are gay. Bandwagon jumpers are gay. People that do shit just to be unique are gay.

> [@car storage](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/car-storage/23761/25):
>
> absolutely he has the right to an opinion, but not when he starts talking like he knows everything and trys to back it up with cockieness(sp?) blah blah ka is a truck motor… and hes a fag cuz hes riding the ls1 bandwagon like a whore on a dick trying to make 20 bucks…
> 
> read his post its not an opinion , its a failed attempt at trying to school people

^ This is exactly why I hate Ahmed. Hector managed to summarize and describe it perfectly. This is what he does with every post, including the ones made in this thread. He’s not capable of talking with people without talking down at them. And this is why I’ll always talk shit about him, wherever I see him. Like so:

Ahmed is a huge faggot that has no friends, and is hated in every group he has attempted to join.

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**Author:** ![prodigy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/8491ac/32.png) [@prodigy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/prodigy)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 7:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/42 "2009-09-10T07:47:16Z")

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> [@Question about Fuses, shorts, and an electrical mess.](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/question-about-fuses-shorts-and-an-electrical-mess/23904/6):
>
> Rotaries are gay.

Oh good! So I can pick up lots of guys with my Rx-7 when the 13B is done!? SWEET! I’m excited now!

Stage 1 (In Progress):

13B-RE Cosmo Housings  
Series-5 NA ‘High Compression’ (9.7:1) Rotors  
Series-5 NA ‘6-Port’ Irons  
New Bearings All Around  
Thermal Pellet Blockoff  
Streetport Primaries  
Streetport Secondaries  
Bridgeport Auxiliaries (5th and 6th Ports)  
Pineapple Racing Auxiliary Port Sleeves  
Racing Beat Oil Pan Baffle Plate  
Lightweight Cro-Moly Flywheel  
Custom Clutch and Pressure Plate

Stage 2 (By Next Summer):

GT35R @ ~15psi

But I digress…

The 240’s engine is done for me already, and I’m leaving it pretty much alone:

Cometic Head Gasket  
New Timing Chain  
CentreForce Clutch and Pressure Plate  
B&M Short Shifter  
(Full Custom Header Back Exhaust in the works)

…That is all…

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**Author:** ![Solarian](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/solarian/32/5514_2.png) [@Solarian](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Solarian)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 8:25am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/43 "2009-09-10T08:25:28Z")

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> [@Think you eat alot?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/think-you-eat-alot/23902/3):
>
> Oh good! So I can pick up lots of guys with my Rx-7 when the 13B is done!? SWEET! I’m excited now!

Well shit, I had to welcome you back somehow 😃

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**Author:** ![Chad\_Dugan](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/chad_dugan/32/5576_2.png) [@Chad\_Dugan](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Chad_Dugan)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 12:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/44 "2009-09-10T12:02:47Z")

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> [@OMG! What I woke up to this morning..](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/omg-what-i-woke-up-to-this-morning/23705/21):
>
> Nismo Main Crank Bearings  
> Tomei Micro-Finished Con-Rod Bearings  
> Eagle H Con-Rods  
> Wiseco Pistons  
> ARP Head Studs  
> Brian Crower Valve Springs with Titanium Retainers
> 
> that is what im looking at.

first things first, what is your goal with this car - is it a drift car, drag car, circuit car etc -

do you want 300 hp 400 hp or 500+ hp ?

if you only want 300 hp DO NOT waste your money building your engine to that extent, a head gasket and head studs will last you years on only 300hp

if you want to make 400hp reliably you can build the bottom end using STOCK crank, upgraded bearings, eagle rods and which ever pistons you choose, stay stock size or go .20 over, the higher you go the more compression and less OEM reliability -

in the head, there will always be more work than what you think is needed, cams, valves, springs and retainers are a must if the engine is apart -

i would budget for at LEAST 4500 dollars to build your engine, i am currently well over that with similar modifications, if your going to re use stock lifers, and stock guides, etc - its not really saving you anything to leave them oem -

here is a quick breakdown of a parts list where you can get an idea of in your hands pricing -

Head downward -

HKS RAS 150  
BC Cams 300  
BC Springs and Retainers 180  
BC SS Valves 150  
Head work? 400 to 2000  
Pistons 400 to 1000 to 2000  
Rods 350 to 1000  
Bearings 150 to 400  
ARP Head Studs 120  
ARP Main Studs 160  
ARP Flywheel bolts 90  
Gasket rebuild kit 180  
OEM Water pump 80  
OEM Oil Pump 235  
New Chain or Aftermarket 160 to 500  
Greddy Oil Pan 450  
ATI Crank Pulley 450  
Spark Plugs 50 to 150  
Splitfire Coil Packs 450  
Block Machine work? 500 to 2000  
Misc Machine work Cleaning And Assembly 500

Im sure i am missing many parts but this gives you an idea of how expensive building an engine properly can get.

This set up can easily handle 500HP as well but i do not know how you will get it there without all the other supporting modifications, which will inevitably take you well into the 8 to 10 thousand dollar range…

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**Author:** ![Polar\_s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/polar_s13/32/5572_2.png) [@Polar\_s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Polar_s13)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 4:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/45 "2009-09-10T16:46:05Z")

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> [@Custom Plates](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/custom-plates/23901/32):
>
> first things first, what is your goal with this car - is it a drift car, drag car, circuit car etc -
> 
> do you want 300 hp 400 hp or 500+ hp ?
> 
> if you only want 300 hp DO NOT waste your money building your engine to that extent, a head gasket and head studs will last you years on only 300hp
> 
> if you want to make 400hp reliably you can build the bottom end using STOCK crank, upgraded bearings, eagle rods and which ever pistons you choose, stay stock size or go .20 over, the higher you go the more compression and less OEM reliability -
> 
> in the head, there will always be more work than what you think is needed, cams, valves, springs and retainers are a must if the engine is apart -
> 
> i would budget for at LEAST 4500 dollars to build your engine, i am currently well over that with similar modifications, if your going to re use stock lifers, and stock guides, etc - its not really saving you anything to leave them oem -
> 
> here is a quick breakdown of a parts list where you can get an idea of in your hands pricing -
> 
> Head downward -
> 
> HKS RAS 150  
> BC Cams 300  
> BC Springs and Retainers 180  
> BC SS Valves 150  
> Head work? 400 to 2000  
> Pistons 400 to 1000 to 2000  
> Rods 350 to 1000  
> Bearings 150 to 400  
> ARP Head Studs 120  
> ARP Main Studs 160  
> ARP Flywheel bolts 90  
> Gasket rebuild kit 180  
> OEM Water pump 80  
> OEM Oil Pump 235  
> New Chain or Aftermarket 160 to 500  
> Greddy Oil Pan 450  
> Spark Plugs 50 to 150  
> Splitfire Coil Packs 450  
> Block Machine work? 500 to 2000  
> Misc Machine work Cleaning And Assembly 500
> 
> Im sure i am missing many parts but this gives you an idea of how expensive building an engine properly can get.
> 
> This set up can easily handle 500HP as well but i do not know how you will get it there without all the other supporting modifications, which will inevitably take you well into the 8 to 10 thousand dollar range…

See I hate how people think oh i can build a motor for cheap this and that but I bet that person will be crying when their cheaper build blows. That right there is a proper build reliable and expensive I myself have spent quite a bit but in the end it will be way worth it…

I would rather go with JWT s3 cams but thats me…world would be shit if everyone did the samething…

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**Author:** ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)\
**Post date:** [September 10, 2009, 5:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/46 "2009-09-10T17:19:35Z")

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LS1 would be sweet but I think the LT1 would be a good choice, I like the engine and there pretty reliable.

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**Author:** ![S13GG](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/s13gg/32/5506_2.png) [@S13GG](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/S13GG)\
**Post date:** [September 11, 2009, 5:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/47 "2009-09-11T05:45:06Z")

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> [@WTB: old nissan turbo](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-old-nissan-turbo/23821/3):
>
> apexi metal hg  
> arp head studs  
> hks cams  
> rocker arm stoppers
> 
> is all i would do for up to 400

yup, with a new head/springs, new oilpump, nismo thermo/new waterpump, clutch.flywheel upgrades,

and a few other goodies, = my motor w/10k

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**Author:** ![prodigy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/8491ac/32.png) [@prodigy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/prodigy)\
**Post date:** [September 13, 2009, 9:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/hey-lets-here-your-engine-build/127834/48 "2009-09-13T09:18:59Z")

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> [@Ban the lightbulbs!](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/ban-the-lightbulbs/23894/22):
>
> See I hate how people think oh i can build a motor for cheap this and that but I bet that person will be crying when their cheaper build blows. That right there is a proper build reliable and expensive I myself have spent quite a bit but in the end it will be way worth it…

The saying goes (and this dates back past the muscle-car days, and remains true to this day):

Cheap / Fast / Reliable – Pick any two.

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