# Just dyno'd 440WHP - 2003 Evo

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive
**Created:** [January 7, 2009, 6:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239 "2009-01-07T18:30:11Z")
**Posts on this page:** 1
**Showing post:** 69

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### Author: ![Shawn96VR-4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/eada6e/32.png) [@Shawn96VR-4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Shawn96VR-4)
#### Post date: [January 9, 2009, 8:04pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239/69 "2009-01-09T20:04:34Z")

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> [@PPC GPS Maps](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/ppc-gps-maps/11598/21):
>
> Thanks for saying my Mustang dyno #'s arent accurate even though they beat your dynojet numbers… ya damn loser… What a cock block.

Whoa. Calm down princess.

First of all, I gave the car props so I am not sure why you got your panties in a bunch. Friggin prissy Evo owners.

Second of all, Mustang dynos are NOTORIOUSLY unaccurate as they are low. They do not reflect the actual traps. That’s not a dig at your car but just the dyno in general. My point was that you go to a dyno for 2 reasons: Get #s, tune your car. I recommended going to a dyno that is REPEATABLE and ACCURATE in regards that the #s you get represents what traps you would get (Again, typically that isn’t a Mustang dyno). If it’s not accurate (ie reads high/low), it doesn’t matter if it’s repeated so you can make changes to hardware/tune and see the difference.

P.S. I can’t dyno 440WHP unless I change WG springs. 🙂  
P.S.S The DJ I went on was dead on was not the over inflated DJ #s that the masses seem to expect. But, who cares?

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