# Just dyno'd 440WHP - 2003 Evo **URL:** \ **Category:** Shift518 Automotive\ **Created:** [January 7, 2009, 6:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239 "2009-01-07T18:30:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 70
**Author:** ![Shawn96VR-4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/eada6e/32.png) [@Shawn96VR-4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Shawn96VR-4)\ **Post date:** [January 9, 2009, 8:06pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239/70 "2009-01-09T20:06:01Z")
> [@FS: Pioneer In-Dash DVD player and master unit](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-pioneer-in-dash-dvd-player-and-master-unit/12311/6): > > conservative is a relative term. just because a lot of guys are running 30+ psi doesn’t mean your tune is conservative at 28psi. ask granmassax about the tune he got at another shop that was supposively making good power safely. the general rule of thumb is find the motors knock threshhold, back it down enough so that if you get a bad tank of gas, overboost condition, ect, it won’t go boom, log under a lot of diff loads, call it a day. you wouldn’t want an overly conservative tune with no timing and such because it’d create such high egt’s from the burn cycle takign so long it’d cause way more wear on the motor. again, conservative is relative to the car. .02 from me Ugh. I heard the story on that. But, this is typically exactly what I do when I tune my car and most of the advice I got from tuners on my platform. The AFR is typically in the LOW 11s but I have the timing/boost backed off from what was on the dyno as a running car \> previously powerful running car. --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/just-dynod-440whp-2003-evo/241239)._