# LC-1 XD-16 Standalone But I want Datalogging

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lc-1-xd-16-standalone-but-i-want-datalogging/202098>\
**Category:** PittSpeed Automotive\
**Created:** [March 4, 2009, 9:02am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lc-1-xd-16-standalone-but-i-want-datalogging/202098 "2009-03-04T09:02:16Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 12

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**Author:** ![1badx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1badx/32/6052_2.png) [@1badx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1badx)\
**Post date:** [March 6, 2009, 12:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lc-1-xd-16-standalone-but-i-want-datalogging/202098/12 "2009-03-06T12:20:06Z")

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> [@WTB: Honda Headlights](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-honda-headlights/39772/4):
>
> ya I may need a hand setting it up ( I dont know what they mean by 0.5 voltage and setting up values and shit), and getting crash course on it.
> 
> Im just wondering what would be more acturate, OT-1 or SSI-4  
> Hell! if I get either or, when I want to tune I could just take my wheels off, set the car on blocks, and do a pull in 4th gear to tune my fuel

That’s 0-5 volts. Most modern sensors (not all) provide a 0-5 volt signal to the ECU/PCM. Like I said before, buy the OT1 the rpm reading will be accurate enough (I believe it samples 12 times a second). As for jacking up your car and doing a 4th gear pull you should really think about spending the money on some dyno time and we’ll give you a rpm/af printout and copy it to your jump drive if you like. For $149+shipping of the OT1 you could do a few different dyno sessions and actually get alot more info…

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