# LQ9 into E39 **URL:** \ **Category:** Builds\ **Created:** [August 12, 2012, 2:35pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230 "2012-08-12T14:35:14Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 18
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 10, 2013, 7:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/341 "2013-04-10T19:42:03Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > Thanks. I’ll see if K&S has some on lunch. I don’t feel like waiting another 3 days for Summit to deliver. Best place for the stainless an fittings is ferry hydraulic on walden ave. ---
**Author:** ![GV1390](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/gv1390/32/5432_2.png) [@GV1390](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GV1390)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 5:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/342 "2013-04-11T05:29:14Z")
^ lol, I hope you still try to be “nice” in this thread when you find out he is going to New Era for the tune. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 6:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/343 "2013-04-11T06:06:10Z")
> [@GV1390](#): > > ^ lol, I hope you still try to be “nice” in this thread when you find out he is going to New Era for the tune. I could care less humper, because I am still busier than ever. Keep sucking dick ---
**Author:** ![GV1390](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/gv1390/32/5432_2.png) [@GV1390](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GV1390)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 6:20am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/344 "2013-04-11T06:20:28Z")
Typical weak JnJ faggot response, good luck, I hope you burn in hell. Norb, you contact Luke yet? ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 6:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/345 "2013-04-11T06:30:58Z")
> [@GV1390](#): > > Typical weak JnJ faggot response, good luck, I hope you burn in hell. > > Norb, you contact Luke yet? Thanks whiskey tango ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 7:23am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/346 "2013-04-11T07:23:20Z")
> [@J & J](#): > > Best place for the stainless an fittings is ferry hydraulic on walden ave. They could have made up the lines for me, but because I didn’t know the length or configuration I needed, I took care of it myself (that, and it’s cheaper). They’re good, but expensive. K&S had the right Russell PS high pressure fittings. I finished up the power steering lines last night. Accidentally broke the soft Summit banjo bolt, but luckily still had the OEM BMW bolt laying around and used that. > [@GV1390](#): > > Typical weak JnJ faggot response, good luck, I hope you burn in hell. > > Norb, you contact Luke yet? I still have to tackle the wiring on my own and draw up a list of questions/issues I have before I go wasting anyone’s time. Most of the stuff will be plug and play, but I know I will have issues on smaller things like integrating the manual T56 sensors with the right pins on the auto PCM. I did want Luke to take a look at the electric motor on my cutout valve, though…thanks for reminding me. After speaking with New Era, I’m going with a mail order tune for now from TunedbyFrost online. It was a pretty pricey proposition to drag the car out there on someone else’s truck and trailer, have them code out the VATS and etc bullshit, and then dyno tune the car from scratch. More importantly, because the car won’t start with VATS still in the PCM, and New Era could only remove VATS at their shop through the car’s OBD2 port, the car theoretically would be started for the very first time at someone else’s shop, and we all know the little BS things that pop up when you fire up a car with so many new and untested systems (cooling and PS leaks, wiring things that I may have fucked up, etc). It’s just not smart to have my car sitting on someone else’s dyno while I try to figure out why I have an oil leak or coolant dripping somewhere. With the mail order I can fire it up on my own time and deal with all the fuckups I find. Once the car is sorted and roadworthy I can eventually just drive it to Rochester since I visit friends there once every few months anyway. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 7:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/347 "2013-04-11T07:36:48Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > They could have made up the lines for me, but because I didn’t know the length or configuration I needed, I took care of it myself (that, and it’s cheaper). They’re good, but expensive. K&S had the right Russell PS high pressure fittings. I finished up the power steering lines last night. Accidentally broke the soft Summit banjo bolt, but luckily still had the OEM BMW bolt laying around and used that. > > I still have to tackle the wiring on my own and draw up a list of questions/issues I have before I go wasting anyone’s time. Most of the stuff will be plug and play, but I know I will have issues on smaller things like integrating the manual T56 sensors with the right pins on the auto PCM. I did want Luke to take a look at the electric motor on my cutout valve, though…thanks for reminding me. > > After speaking with New Era, I’m going with a mail order tune for now from TunedbyFrost online. It was a pretty pricey proposition to drag the car out there on someone else’s truck and trailer, have them code out the VATS and etc bullshit, and then dyno tune the car from scratch. More importantly, because the car won’t start with VATS still in the PCM, and New Era could only remove VATS at their shop through the car’s OBD2 port, the car theoretically would be started for the very first time at someone else’s shop, and we all know the little BS things that pop up when you fire up a car with so many new and untested systems (cooling and PS leaks, wiring things that I may have fucked up, etc). It’s just not smart to have my car sitting on someone else’s dyno while I try to figure out why I have an oil leak or coolant dripping somewhere. With the mail order I can fire it up on my own time and deal with all the fuckups I find. Once the car is sorted and roadworthy I can eventually just drive it to Rochester since I visit friends there once every few months anyway. Ferry will sell you parts, and if you know how much they are from Summit they will match the price because they know their walk in prices are a bit high. Your best bet it to still get an F body PCM and repin your wiring harness ---
**Author:** ![Mike93](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike93/32/7325_2.png) [@Mike93](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Mike93)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 7:49am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/348 "2013-04-11T07:49:02Z")
Norb, to bypass the VATS temporarily this may work: [http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors\_Car\_Truck\_Parts\_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr](http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr) I used this in the LT1 swap in the '55 Chevy, drove the car for a while, then had the VATS disabled via a laptop tuner. It’s cheap and easy to wire up. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 7:53am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/349 "2013-04-11T07:53:21Z")
> [@Mike93](#): > > Norb, to bypass the VATS temporarily this may work: [http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors\_Car\_Truck\_Parts\_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr](http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr) > > I used this in the LT1 swap in the '55 Chevy, drove the car for a while, then had the VATS disabled via a laptop tuner. It’s cheap and easy to wire up. Speaking of the '55 how was the trip and how is the car? ---
**Author:** ![Mike93](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike93/32/7325_2.png) [@Mike93](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Mike93)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 7:58am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/350 "2013-04-11T07:58:58Z")
> [@J & J](#): > > Speaking of the '55 how was the trip and how is the car? Hey J, the drive went great! Trans is still acting dumb, rather than dick with that I think the plan is to just go with a fresher LS/LQ whatever based drivetrain altogether. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 8:04am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/351 "2013-04-11T08:04:38Z")
> [@Mike93](#): > > Hey J, the drive went great! Trans is still acting dumb, rather than dick with that I think the plan is to just go with a fresher LS/LQ whatever based drivetrain altogether. Well then consider something like this [http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2011/07/21/retro-ls-build-part-1/](http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2011/07/21/retro-ls-build-part-1/) ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 8:07am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/352 "2013-04-11T08:07:14Z")
> [@J & J](#): > > Ferry will sell you parts, and if you know how much they are from Summit they will match the price because they know their walk in prices are a bit high. > > Your best bet it to still get an F body PCM and repin your wiring harness Can you explain your reasoning some more? I REALLY don’t feel like repining the harness, especially if it’s a known good working combination that had nothing wrong with it. I have no desire to make this a standalone or anything like that, I just want it to run happily and think it’s still in a van. The only things I can think of that are F-body specific are: -VSS for manual (I will speak to the tuner about that) -reverse lockout (I’m wiring it to disengage when my brake lights turn on) -CAGS (long gone, solenoid removed) -2 pins for electric fan control, as the stock van cooling fan is a mechanical clutch fan driven directly off the waterpump. If the tuner adds the control capability I can easily add 2 pins to the harness to control those. > [@Mike93](#): > > Norb, to bypass the VATS temporarily this may work: [http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors\_Car\_Truck\_Parts\_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr](http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1-/281064956739?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4170c6e343&vxp=mtr) > > I used this in the LT1 swap in the '55 Chevy, drove the car for a while, then had the VATS disabled via a laptop tuner. It’s cheap and easy to wire up. Thanks Mike. Since I need the PCM tuned anyways for my airflow and fueling I’m just going to have him do it while he’s in there—it’s already included in the package. By the way, I’m pretty much done with your engine crane, but I’m going to hold off on returning it until this turd is up and running for sure with no problems! ---
**Author:** ![Mike93](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike93/32/7325_2.png) [@Mike93](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Mike93)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 8:16am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/353 "2013-04-11T08:16:49Z")
> [@J & J](#): > > Well then consider something like this > > [http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2011/07/21/retro-ls-build-part-1/](http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2011/07/21/retro-ls-build-part-1/) But it’s got a carb! > [@96V6Bird](#): > > Thanks Mike. Since I need the PCM tuned anyways for my airflow and fueling I’m just going to have him do it while he’s in there—it’s already included in the package. > By the way, I’m pretty much done with your engine crane, but I’m going to hold off on returning it until this turd is up and running for sure with no problems! No worries, Norb. I’m in no hurry anyway so feel free to hang onto it for as long as you need. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2013, 8:25am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/354 "2013-04-11T08:25:54Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > Can you explain your reasoning some more? I REALLY don’t feel like repining the harness, especially if it’s a known good working combination that had nothing wrong with it. I have no desire to make this a standalone or anything like that, I just want it to run happily and think it’s still in a van. > > The only things I can think of that are F-body specific are: > -VSS for manual (I will speak to the tuner about that) > -reverse lockout (I’m wiring it to disengage when my brake lights turn on) > -CAGS (long gone, solenoid removed) > -2 pins for electric fan control, as the stock van cooling fan is a mechanical clutch fan driven directly off the waterpump. If the tuner adds the control capability I can easily add 2 pins to the harness to control those. > > Thanks Mike. Since I need the PCM tuned anyways for my airflow and fueling I’m just going to have him do it while he’s in there—it’s already included in the package. > By the way, I’m pretty much done with your engine crane, but I’m going to hold off on returning it until this turd is up and running for sure with no problems! Just the little things in the tune and the tables for the transmission. That PCM is expecting 2 VSS signals. One for the turbine speed and output speed. It would just simplify the wiring. Repinning is very easy with both wiring diagrams > [@Mike93](#): > > But it’s got a carb! > > No worries, Norb. I’m in no hurry anyway so feel free to hang onto it for as long as you need. Easily be built with a 4 barrel EFI unit instead. I was mainly talking about the “look” of the engine ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [April 16, 2013, 5:40pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/355 "2013-04-16T17:40:12Z")
I posted this over on bimmerforums already as there are a few guys who have already integrated LS cooling systems with the wacky BMW heater core mixing valve, but I figured I’d ask here as well since there are a few of you with LS cooling experience. > [@nsogiba"](#): > > let’s talk cooling systems… > > i have mine mostly done, just need to clarify a few details since my setup seems to be slightly different than the others i’ve researched. > > I have the following set up for the radiator supply and return, and heater supply and return to the valve/heater core. > > I haven’t yet plumbed the vent lines. Is my theory correct? > > ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8655772601_bb1811a4dc_b.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/0/0/009c5956bf39487dc824fdde86e8365a8a1b9a46.jpeg) > > I’m using a VW sphere style overflow bottle. > > Since there is no provision for a rad cap on the C5 Corvette radiator, this will have to be the fill point for the sytem. Steam vents are blocked off in the rear (just like factory setup) and fronts are tied together into a common line, which will be connected as shown. > > The water pump I bought on LS1Tech has a brass barb fitting tapped into the body of the pump…should I block this off or include it in the steam vent line? > > The top (smaller) line on the VW bottle should go as shown in my diagram, but i’m not sure where the lower line goes. I’m assuming to either that it ties into one of the heaters hoses or the lower rad hose, to be able to fill the system. Is there any need for an additional, unpressurized overflow bottle? > > Where does the other vent line on the C5 rad go? > > Any input/changes I should make? Hoping to wrap up cooling system tomorrow. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [April 17, 2013, 7:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/356 "2013-04-17T19:45:25Z")
balls deep…not great at wiring. ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8659769072_873ba901c7_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8659769072_873ba901c7_c.jpg) ---
**Author:** ![e60oholic](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/e60oholic/32/6228_2.png) [@e60oholic](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/e60oholic)\ **Post date:** [April 17, 2013, 7:55pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/357 "2013-04-17T19:55:22Z")
Just saw your txt, not sure if it was to late to answer or not. Im making progress. Should have it figured out by the weekend. Sorry for the delay ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [April 17, 2013, 7:57pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/358 "2013-04-17T19:57:06Z")
my phone is always on. don’t hesitate to text back. I have the cluster all back in and assembled with the new required wiring, so i’m all ready to go on my end. ---
**Author:** ![e60oholic](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/e60oholic/32/6228_2.png) [@e60oholic](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/e60oholic)\ **Post date:** [April 17, 2013, 8:00pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/359 "2013-04-17T20:00:22Z")
Awesome! Cant wait to come see it ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [April 17, 2013, 9:48pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/360 "2013-04-17T21:48:26Z")
I would tie the bottom of the VW coolant tank into the lower radiator hose. If that is not possible you can use the coolant hose coming off the water pump. That is how the chevy trucks are connected. As far as the steam line on the engine and the radiator you can T them and run it to the vent on the coolant bottle. Is that a pressurized cap? [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230.md?page=17) [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230.md?page=19)