# LQ9 into E39 **URL:** \ **Category:** Builds\ **Created:** [August 12, 2012, 2:35pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230 "2012-08-12T14:35:14Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 8
**Author:** ![turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/turbo_ls1_ss/32/7303_2.png) [@turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/turbo_ls1_ss)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 1:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/141 "2012-12-14T13:20:01Z")
> [@LZ](#): > > Seems like you should be able to get away with a 100-150 hell people take those 6.0/5.3 stock bottom ends and make 500-600hp with turbo setups pretty often. Taking the stock junk yard engines over 900hp seems to be the new cool kid thing to do, but it’s not recommended. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 1:21pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/142 "2012-12-14T13:21:36Z")
> [@turbo ls1 ss](#): > > I’m not a fan of these at all. At the very least, use them on an O-ring’d engine. I had great luck with LS9 (I think) 5-layer gaskets. > [@J & J](#): > > GM# 12589227 are these one and the same? > [@turbo ls1 ss](#): > > Taking the stock junk yard engines over 900hp seems to be the new cool kid thing to do, but it’s not recommended. strength under harsh conditions is part of why i chose the iron block (ok fine, it was also cheaper the aluminum). I really want to enjoy this motor, unlike the BMW V8 where i was always watching the temp gauge and worrying about the timing chain guides disintegrating. ---
**Author:** ![turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/turbo_ls1_ss/32/7303_2.png) [@turbo\_ls1\_ss](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/turbo_ls1_ss)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 1:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/143 "2012-12-14T13:26:09Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > are these one and the same? > . No, similar but different bores and layers. The ones that J&J posted are the ones to go with for your app. ---------- Post added at 04:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ---------- > [@96V6Bird](#): > > strength under harsh conditions is part of why i chose the iron block (ok fine, it was also cheaper the aluminum). I really want to enjoy this motor, unlike the BMW V8 where i was always watching the temp gauge and worrying about the timing chain guides disintegrating. They can take a lot of abuse as long as you aren’t detonating. I will likely build another one myself. They are about as good as you can get without stepping up to the big money setups. ---
**Author:** ![nitroinsane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/d26b3c/32.png) [@nitroinsane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/nitroinsane)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 2:25pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/144 "2012-12-14T14:25:01Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > I want to be able to “set it and forget it” on large important items like trans, heads, etc. For example, I’m only going to buy one trans, and I might as well do it right the first time (rebuilt). On the other hand, it’s super easy to swap a cam and valvetrain out in a weekend and play with very different setups. I cheaped out on the cam and springs (stock LS2) because I didn’t want the van shit, but I wanted an upgrade. The build would go on just fine without buying an expensive cam, springs, pushrods, valvetrain etc. However, without a trans, I can’t do shit (don’t know where to mockup the engine and shifter, etc), so I might as well have it done right, because I don’t want to do it again. > > The plan is to get it running reliably and stockish with the “supporting mods” there for when I decide to start having fun with it. Car will run fine on either milled heads or stock 317 heads, so why take them apart later to have them milled? Then I have to buy headgaskets, headbolts all over again. (speaking of which, i need to buy the GM MLS headgaskets for the 6.0 and ARP headbolts) > > I keep getting the itch to spray the piss out of it when it’s all done and running right. What’s a safe shot on an iron 6.0 with higher compression (whatever it is with 66cc chambers?) 100? 150? Assume rear end, trans, and clutch can all handle it. Eh, you’re better off ordering a tranny from tick performance. I am getting a great deal on parts and labor. I am still looking 15-1700 ---
**Author:** ![GV1390](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/gv1390/32/5432_2.png) [@GV1390](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GV1390)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 5:51pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/145 "2012-12-14T17:51:02Z")
> [@nitroinsane](#): > > Eh, you’re better off ordering a tranny from tick performance. I am getting a great deal on parts and labor. I am still looking 15-1700 Great price because it takes 3 seasons to get your parts. ---
**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2012, 5:54pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/146 "2012-12-14T17:54:53Z")
> [@turbo ls1 ss](#): > > Taking the stock junk yard engines over 900hp seems to be the new cool kid thing to do, but it’s not recommended. I only said 500-600 :lol: ---
**Author:** ![steelcitysix](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/steelcitysix/32/5992_2.png) [@steelcitysix](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/steelcitysix)\ **Post date:** [December 15, 2012, 12:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/147 "2012-12-15T00:00:12Z")
4l80e i know you guys like rowing gears but i have a well built 4l80 and not alot of money in it ---
**Author:** ![nitroinsane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/d26b3c/32.png) [@nitroinsane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/nitroinsane)\ **Post date:** [December 15, 2012, 6:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/148 "2012-12-15T06:37:54Z")
> [@GV1390](#): > > Great price because it takes 3 seasons to get your parts. If my tranny isn’t done by may ill go buy a tranny idgaf. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 15, 2012, 7:35am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/149 "2012-12-15T07:35:19Z")
so, here’s the trans i’m looking at. before i drive all the way down there i’d like to make sure it’s LS1 application. i don’t think the case casting number can tell me the origin (1386-065-902). i have the seller working on getting me pictures of the sticker and the metal tag under the bolt on the rear extension housing. in the meantime, can anyone here with a trained eye tell me if this is LS1 application T56, and how can they tell? maybe the bellhousing? i’m not a GM guy but the trans crossmember looks LS1 application. ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8504/8274121901_a7f82631d9_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8504/8274121901_a7f82631d9_c.jpg) ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8203/8274121825_48547e787e_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8203/8274121825_48547e787e_c.jpg) ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8275184190_3ff078162b_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8275184190_3ff078162b_c.jpg) ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8353/8274122087_a00d1c0d9d_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8353/8274122087_a00d1c0d9d_c.jpg) ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8274122209_43734681db_c.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8274122209_43734681db_c.jpg) ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 6:58am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/150 "2012-12-18T06:58:56Z")
Spend some time running around town yesterday picking up flange head metric bolts for the T56-motor connection. Fastenal and a local specialty contractors supply store did not stock them, but Sears Hardware did, go figure. Mated up the motor just for fun. I’m going to mock up the mounts once I settle on an oil pan (still need to think about that one) and while I’m taking care of the harness and wiring, I’ll have it sent out to have Jason @ TDP look over it. Super nice guy, by the way. ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8076/8283419860_a7b0d0c376_h.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8076/8283419860_a7b0d0c376_h.jpg) Laid the heads down on it just for mockup. The next step is to buy all the gaskets for reassembly, the motor is ready to be put back together. I put it in the bay just for sh\*ts and giggles. For some reason at the time (maybe it was the fact that I was tired from work all day, or had a few too many beers) I was convinced that the shifter was supposed to line up exactly with the hole. I didn’t have an oil pan mounted at the time, but if I did, it would not have agreed with that idea. I’ll get into the garage tonight and play with it some more. ![http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8347/8283418464_fc64a054de_h.jpg](http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8347/8283418464_fc64a054de_h.jpg) Measuring driveline angles will be crappy, because the nose of the car only is on jackstands. The car is too low when it sits normally, the engine hoist legs hit the lower control arms when plopping the engine in. May just have to take the angle of the car and then subtract it from my measurements. ---
**Author:** ![95dime](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/95dime/32/7514_2.png) [@95dime](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95dime)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 9:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/151 "2012-12-18T09:14:36Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > Measuring driveline angles will be crappy, because the nose of the car only is on jackstands. The car is too low when it sits normally, the engine hoist legs hit the lower control arms when plopping the engine in. May just have to take the angle of the car and then subtract it from my measurements. get yourself some wood to make some blocks to sit the car on its wheels so its high up enough to get the engine hoist in there. when you setup your mounts you want it sitting like how itll be going down the road. make sure its square and center, and level left to right. i usually set them ~3-4\* down front to back. ive made motor mounts for an sbc s10, bbc s10, sbc wrangler, sbc in a dirt track car, and a flathead in the hotrod. next up will be making motor mounts for a bbc jetboat. let me know if you have any questions on it. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 10:17am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/152 "2012-12-18T10:17:44Z")
good call, i didn’t think of the wood under the wheels. i bought some 2x6s on lunch to cut up and stack under the wheels. only problem is that my floor in the garage is cracked in a few places, i have to play around with placement of the car. i also bought a 2"x2"x8’ piece to mimick 2" tube steel, which is what i’ll be using to actually make the mounts. lot easier to cut the wood (take away a few degrees here and there) than the steel, and cheaper. the passenger mount will be one piece of tube steel, but due to the bulky steering box on the driver’s side, it will have to be 2-3 pieces welded together at angles going around it. thanks for the tips, definitely good info! i may have you stop out with an angle finder to look over my work (when i get there). ---
**Author:** ![95dime](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/95dime/32/7514_2.png) [@95dime](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95dime)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 10:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/153 "2012-12-18T10:30:23Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > good call, i didn’t think of the wood under the wheels. i bought some 2x6s on lunch to cut up and stack under the wheels. only problem is that my floor in the garage is cracked in a few places, i have to play around with placement of the car. > > i also bought a 2"x2"x8’ piece to mimick 2" tube steel, which is what i’ll be using to actually make the mounts. lot easier to cut the wood (take away a few degrees here and there) than the steel, and cheaper. the passenger mount will be one piece of tube steel, but due to the bulky steering box on the driver’s side, it will have to be 2-3 pieces welded together at angles going around it. > > thanks for the tips, definitely good info! i may have you stop out with an angle finder to look over my work (when i get there). Sounds like some heavy duty motor mounts haha. Look forward to seeing how it goes. I usually make templates out of cardboard when making mounts, may have to try the wood idea sometime ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 10:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/154 "2012-12-18T10:32:12Z")
Yeah, seeing as it’s the iron block, it’s a HEAVY pig. I get the stuff super super cheap through work so it’s cheap insurance. ---
**Author:** ![95dime](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/95dime/32/7514_2.png) [@95dime](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95dime)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 11:16am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/155 "2012-12-18T11:16:30Z")
> [@96V6Bird](#): > > Yeah, seeing as it’s the iron block, it’s a HEAVY pig. I get the stuff super super cheap through work so it’s cheap insurance. wouldnt an iron block lsx be comparable to an sbc? not terribly heavy. can you get away with not having to do multiple pieces on the driver side if you do round tube instead of square? the simpler the better. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 11:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/156 "2012-12-18T11:44:54Z")
> [@95dime](#): > > wouldnt an iron block lsx be comparable to an sbc? not terribly heavy. can you get away with not having to do multiple pieces on the driver side if you do round tube instead of square? the simpler the better. I have no clue what it weighs, but by the time I throw on front accessories, intake, etc etc, it’ll be up there in weight. The actual mounting point to the BMW body is about 6” forward of where the motor mount plate will be on the block, so it will see bending as well as simple compression. There’s a guy that makes the mounts for this swap but he wants $700 for motor/tranny mounts/the shifter extension. This is his picture, he blacked out the mount so nobody would copy his design, but you can see how the tube steel has to “reach” for the motor mount on the body. Here you can see how the mounts look for the V8 subframe. You have no choice but to go around the steering box. > **[E39 LSX Swap p0rN (duplicated and powdercoated finished product pics inside)](https://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1685796)** > > Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere... The 6 cylinder E39 subframe engine mount location is much more directly in line with the motor plate. This guy started with a V8 E39 but swapped to an I-6 subframe to make fabbing mounts easier (and to ditch the steering box for a rack). ![http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l554/zr6sbc/540i-CTSV/540iDec3012.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/3X/d/1/d114b3f4658b051fde66d19fdcb7b4146d8b7964.jpeg) Do you mean bending round tube? That’d be elegant, but I don’t have a pipe bender (and I doubt we have one at work). ---
**Author:** ![95dime](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/95dime/32/7514_2.png) [@95dime](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/95dime)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 1:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/157 "2012-12-18T13:11:03Z")
interesting setup that guy on bimmerforums is selling, the weight of an engine being that far off center of a single mounting point…no thanks. seems like it would act like a lever and prematurely wear out and/or break the motor mount bushing. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 1:17pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/158 "2012-12-18T13:17:17Z")
Yes, I was thinking the same thing. However, I kept imagining it as the only point holding up the motor, which would put a severe twist on it. in reality, the transmission is supported in the rear, which brings the force and weight back down squarely on the mount. ---
**Author:** ![97FormulaWS-6](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/97formulaws-6/32/7384_2.png) [@97FormulaWS-6](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/97FormulaWS-6)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 1:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/159 "2012-12-18T13:19:47Z")
Just a thought; what about just using the front of the block to make your mounts off of? Similar to how a motor-plate mounting works. This would eliminate or reduce the bending load from the large offset. ---
**Author:** ![Norb\_O](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/norb_o/32/5189_2.png) [@Norb\_O](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Norb_O)\ **Post date:** [December 18, 2012, 1:22pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230/160 "2012-12-18T13:22:16Z")
In the interest of getting this thing on the road and doing heaters, I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel here. Those mounts have been in use with 3 or 4 guys for a while now and nobody has had any problems. I also plan on running stiffer M5/Z8 rubber BMW isolators just to be on the safe side. [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230.md?page=7) [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/lq9-into-e39/225230.md?page=9)