# Manifold Bolts rattle loose!!!! **URL:** \ **Category:** SON240sx Automotive\ **Created:** [August 30, 2007, 11:57pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041 "2007-08-30T23:57:32Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![ls6s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ls6s13/32/5657_2.png) [@ls6s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ls6s13)\ **Post date:** [August 30, 2007, 11:57pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/1 "2007-08-30T23:57:32Z")
k so ive had this problem about 3 times now since ive ownd my car which is only about 6 months. the monifold bolts that attach the turbo to the mani rattle themselfs loose and cuase an exhuast leak like a paper bag sound adn i lose so much pressure cuasing me not to build boost. ive tried alil bit of loctite and then alot of loctite and even lock washers what else can i do to keep them on there for good and does anyone else have this problem. redtop sr20 H/B ---
**Author:** ![roast](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/roast/32/5498_2.png) [@roast](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/roast)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 4:59am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/2 "2007-08-31T04:59:20Z")
The SR20DET came stock with locking plates on the turbo, same with the 300zx & CA18DET. You can pick these plates up from Nissan. The plates have tabs that you bend up to stop the nut from turning. ---
**Author:** ![Sasha\_SG](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sasha_sg/32/5477_2.png) [@Sasha\_SG](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sasha_SG)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 6:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/3 "2007-08-31T06:39:19Z")
i also tack weld the nuts to the studs hard to disassemble but lasts way longer ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 7:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/4 "2007-08-31T07:00:05Z")
man i cant get around this either, reasonably anyways. i put lock washers in… no dice… nylon lock nuts… the nylon melts and the nut fucks off… i have a lock washer and some jam nuts on there now… we’ll see how that goes. fortuantely for me the nut that keeps backing off is the only one that is easily accessible without tearing shit out. ---
**Author:** ![DarkForceJackal](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/b38774/32.png) [@DarkForceJackal](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DarkForceJackal)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 7:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/5 "2007-08-31T07:00:06Z")
> [@Callout: 05OrangeSS](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/callout-05orangess/13711/52): > > i also tack weld the nuts to the studs > > hard to disassemble but lasts way longer Dude I should give you a call you get my downpipe/turbo nuts tack’d…good call… 😃 ---
**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 7:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/6 "2007-08-31T07:14:05Z")
> [@man plows into SUV @ 92mph, goes berserk at sentancing ....](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/man-plows-into-suv-92mph-goes-berserk-at-sentancing/13805/16): > > Dude I should give you a call you get my downpipe/turbo nuts tack’d…good call… 😃 I did it for my turbo elbow to downpipe joint because I had it fall off on the highway about 3 times, and finally got fed up. I left the turbo elbow to turbo just bolted, and everthing else is just bolted, but that one got welded. And yes, I can still easily take my turbo elbow/downpipe out in one piece. ---
**Author:** ![ls6s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ls6s13/32/5657_2.png) [@ls6s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ls6s13)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 7:25am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/7 "2007-08-31T07:25:25Z")
do these tabs acually work. are they worth goin to nissan for adn how much r they. im glad i wasnt the only one with the problem i thought maybe my motor mounts or sumtin where to hard becuase the vibrations must be crazy to loosen loctite and nuts tighten to the fullest. thanks for the tips welding is my last resort but if it come to it then i guess thast hwo it will go. also alil off topic…im gettin sick of generic mechanics, ur car goes in an sumtims left for 2-3 days without being fixed untill the last possible moment. half of them look at you with a blank stare when you say sr20det. So i was wondering is there any reputable garages or shop that you guys take you 240s to that kno them top to bottom, preferably in st.catharines. thanks in advance ---
**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 7:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/8 "2007-08-31T07:36:43Z")
They do work, and you could always just make it yourself via some 16ga mild steel, and a pair of snips. Loctite doesn’t work because it releases with heat. Your turbo gets too hot, the Loctite lets go, and the bolt works its way off. A spotweld on the threads isn’t bad to clean up to get your nut off, just a bit more hassle than without it, and really, how often are you removing your turbo? ---
**Author:** ![Jedi\_Car\_Fan](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b9e5f3/32.png) [@Jedi\_Car\_Fan](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Jedi_Car_Fan)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 8:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/9 "2007-08-31T08:47:44Z")
> [@Callout: 05OrangeSS](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/callout-05orangess/13711/52): > > i also tack weld the nuts to the studs > > hard to disassemble but lasts way longer x2… I even tac weld the nuts from the ext - turbo so its one less thing to worry about. Did it when I 1st did in the swap in 05 and then again in 06 when I changed the turbo and I havent had an issue yet 😉 ---
**Author:** ![face](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/face/32/5504_2.png) [@face](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/face)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 2:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/10 "2007-08-31T14:20:48Z")
i also had this problem with my first turbo setup. i was using stock motor and tranny mounts back then, which turned out to all be ripped in half, which i replaced with solid aluminum mounts. i haven’t had any problems after the upgrade to solid mounts, no bolts/nuts rattle out any more. i thought with all the vibration the solid mounts cause, more nuts and bolts would fall out, but it turned out it actually helps. ---
**Author:** ![zeeshan](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/c4cdca/32.png) [@zeeshan](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zeeshan)\ **Post date:** [August 31, 2007, 9:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/11 "2007-08-31T21:41:57Z")
you need good motor mounts that stay still and an exhaust that isn’t preloaded to hell to stop this! 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![robbbby](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b19c9b/32.png) [@robbbby](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/robbbby)\ **Post date:** [September 1, 2007, 8:49am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/12 "2007-09-01T08:49:58Z")
> [@Callout: 05OrangeSS](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/callout-05orangess/13711/52): > > i also tack weld the nuts to the studs > > hard to disassemble but lasts way longer Winner! I did this to just about every bolt holding an exhaust component together. If you have alot of cash though you can always go this route [http://stage8.net/](http://stage8.net/) ---
**Author:** ![roast](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/roast/32/5498_2.png) [@roast](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/roast)\ **Post date:** [September 1, 2007, 10:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/13 "2007-09-01T10:14:31Z")
> [@Looking for a good rpg game](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/looking-for-a-good-rpg-game/13888/10): > > you need good motor mounts that stay still and an exhaust that isn’t preloaded to hell to stop this! 🙂 I think this is a good point, I was planning on using a Megan DP since it has a flex pipe built in. I suspect this with the locking tabs will hold my bolts in place. ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 1:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/14 "2007-09-02T01:32:42Z")
> [@outsourcing = the devil](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/outsourcing-the-devil/13874/17): > > The SR20DET came stock with locking plates on the turbo, same with the 300zx & CA18DET. You can pick these plates up from Nissan. > > The plates have tabs that you bend up to stop the nut from turning. The easy solution ^ > [@Callout: 05OrangeSS](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/callout-05orangess/13711/52): > > i also tack weld the nuts to the studs > > hard to disassemble but lasts way longer If you have access to a welder the fast and sure solution ^ ---
**Author:** ![minimum](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47774/32.png) [@minimum](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/minimum)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 7:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/15 "2007-09-02T07:41:49Z")
since lock washers deform with heat, and the nylon melts out of nylocks. Try top lock nuts. I had really good success with these. They are a type of nut that is a bit deformed at the top to hold the threads, i found they are the only thing not affected by heat. ---
**Author:** ![roast](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/roast/32/5498_2.png) [@roast](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/roast)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 8:03am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/16 "2007-09-02T08:03:28Z")
> [@ohh hell yeah](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/ohh-hell-yeah/13905/2): > > since lock washers deform with heat, and the nylon melts out of nylocks. Try top lock nuts. I had really good success with these. They are a type of nut that is a bit deformed at the top to hold the threads, i found they are the only thing not affected by heat. I’ve also seen people use two nuts… Don’t know if this is a good solution but it may work. ---
**Author:** ![DegrassiJuniorHighFT](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/7c8e57/32.png) [@DegrassiJuniorHighFT](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DegrassiJuniorHighFT)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 8:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/17 "2007-09-02T08:29:33Z")
I have used locking washers for the past 4 years and never had one single problem. ---
**Author:** ![fastback240](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fastback240/32/5591_2.png) [@fastback240](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/fastback240)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 11:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/18 "2007-09-02T11:42:56Z")
put 2 nuts on and tighten one nut to the other and nither of them will go anywhere anytime soon, but yeah i was just guna say weld em on lol but thats my solution for everything, i just love my mig =) ---
**Author:** ![Heatw](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/cdc98d/32.png) [@Heatw](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Heatw)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 12:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/19 "2007-09-02T12:29:47Z")
just wanted to second lockwashers NOT doing shit, under heat they just deform into a flat washer effectively making it a crappy normal washer with a cut in it haha. those deformed top lock nuts however are a good idea. when i used lock washers they just flattened from heat and later when i went to remove my turbo you could feel the nuts were much looser than when i had installed them and that was only 4 months ago. ---
**Author:** ![Sasha\_SG](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sasha_sg/32/5477_2.png) [@Sasha\_SG](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sasha_SG)\ **Post date:** [September 2, 2007, 4:05pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041/20 "2007-09-02T16:05:37Z")
the metal offset locking nuts work pretty well, but still back off i like this stage 8 shit i might give them a call but the problem is it is impossible to use on a header to turbo where you NEED nuts and studs unless they offer a stud version? or i could have some made at a machine shop i think it would be pretty straight forward [Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/manifold-bolts-rattle-loose/109041.md?page=2)