# Mike's Sol **URL:** \ **Category:** Builds\ **Created:** [December 13, 2007, 3:55pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/mikes-sol/235240 "2007-12-13T15:55:54Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 963
**Author:** ![Boxersix](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/boxersix/32/6327_2.png) [@Boxersix](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Boxersix)\ **Post date:** [April 16, 2011, 12:36pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/mikes-sol/235240/963 "2011-04-16T12:36:52Z")
> [@Has MikeiR24 become a worthwhile member of the forum?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/has-mikeir24-become-a-worthwhile-member-of-the-forum/41304/19): > > I finally ordered a radiator, went with a griffin 16" high, 31" long, 3in thick one. Those dimensions put it just a bit taller, wider, and thicker than my radiator so it will be able to be mounted a bit more in the nose of the car with the majority of the area in direct contract with the air flowing through the bumper. This will make it easier to create ducting and direct air flow under the hood. > > I’m still waiting on the 12g fuel safe cell to come off back order. Once both are here some more fab work (mounts and brackets) can be completed. It’s often cheaper and better to just have FS or ATL make you a bladder, then just make you own cell can. Can use their filler necks or make you own. Tis what I did for the subaru. Remember when making radiator ducting…initial opening at front of ducting should be smaller and have the duct work taper up to the core of the rad. Cuases high pressure at the front opening and low pressure on the backside, airflow slows down over the core and absorbs more heat. People just assume that a shit ton of airflow across the core is always the best move and it’s not always the case. If the heat can’t transfer to the air it’s not going to do much. IIRC, quick reference to the formulas are in C.bells Max Boost book. --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/mikes-sol/235240)._