# Motor mount design. **URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/motor-mount-design/254182 **Category:** Shift518 Automotive **Created:** [August 27, 2010, 12:36pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/motor-mount-design/254182 "2010-08-27T12:36:01Z") **Posts on this page:** 1 **Showing post:** 18
### Author: ![Mk4\_30R\_Ban](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mk4_30r_ban/32/6347_2.png) [@Mk4\_30R\_Ban](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Mk4_30R_Ban) #### Post date: [September 11, 2010, 12:55am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/motor-mount-design/254182/18 "2010-09-11T00:55:38Z")
> [@demonoid.com](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/demonoid-com/31856/28): > > OE mounts are done for compliance. Compliance is necessary to prevent metal fatigue and cracking. If you lock things up with billet mounts, shit WILL crack guaranteed. Same thing when changing the type of mount and how it transmits the torque to the body. With that said… > > If you’re going the route of changing the mounts you MUST reinforce the unibody. Engine mount compliance is factored into the stampings and spot welds and if you remove the compliance from the mount, it WILL source to the next weakest link, which are the welds in the unibody(or the stampings themselves). > > I sheared the passenger engine mount area of the unibody twice on the avenger before having to make a larger surface area mount(due to a solid delrin bushed mount). Distributed the force across a wider area and more or less “solved” the issue. And when that was all said and done, boom, starting breaking passenger axles like clockwork 🙂 > > The “V8” style mount would reduce the twist no doubt. I would not go as far as to make it completely solid though. I would still sleeve it with a decent durometer nylon or urethane. > > Good luck! yeah, i did over 35k miles with VF Engineering billet/urethane mounts. no issues at all. EVER. dont over think things. --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/motor-mount-design/254182)._