# New cars for under 20k...

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469>\
**Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\
**Created:** [January 21, 2010, 9:58am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469 "2010-01-21T09:58:58Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![Fry](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fry/32/7284_2.png) [@Fry](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Fry)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:34pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/21 "2010-01-21T12:34:17Z")

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^If you don’t need a bigger car this is how I would go.

Loaded, better handling and lighter than a Legacy, I’m pretty sure it’s tune more aggressively too. Felt like it on the test drives :burnout: and the smaller car gets worse gas mileage so :shrug:

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**Author:** ![Fry](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fry/32/7284_2.png) [@Fry](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Fry)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:34pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/22 "2010-01-21T12:34:47Z")

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> [@theblue](#):
>
> I just don’t see how the **_math_** here makes any sense for you to get another car?

I think there’s an assumption in there that’s causing your confusion…

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**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:36pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/23 "2010-01-21T12:36:41Z")

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does he owe more than $20k on it?

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**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/24 "2010-01-21T12:41:44Z")

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> [@theblue](#):
>
> does he owe more than $20k on it?

He has stated that on a trade-in, he would have ~$4k equity to put a DP on the new ride.

So financing 16k over 5 years is probably a WAY lower payment than $450/month

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**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/25 "2010-01-21T12:41:54Z")

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> [@theblue](#):
>
> does he owe more than $20k on it?

Says he should be 4K up on trade in value.

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**Author:** ![theblue](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/theblue/32/5074_2.png) [@theblue](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/theblue)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 12:56pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/26 "2010-01-21T12:56:47Z")

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it’s really only 2k after taxes and other fees unless that’s pre-factored.

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**Author:** ![TurboTSi](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/22d042/32.png) [@TurboTSi](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/TurboTSi)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 1:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/27 "2010-01-21T13:02:38Z")

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What do you still owe on the MS6? I can’t fathom how you think taking on more debt (especially when you want to buy a house) is a good idea.

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**Author:** ![Clean\_Baldy](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/clean_baldy/32/7308_2.png) [@Clean\_Baldy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Clean_Baldy)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 10:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/28 "2010-01-21T22:46:06Z")

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> [@TurboTSi](#):
>
> What do you still owe on the MS6? I can’t fathom how you think taking on more debt (especially when you want to buy a house) is a good idea.

The house payment is equal to what my rental is now, so don’t worry about that. I just want to open up some more cash and my car is getting older.

I owe around $7k on the MS6. I am expecting $11k trade in ([kbb.com](http://kbb.com))

Using the Edmunds car calculator with 3.9% APR (Pentagon FCU rate) which I am pre-approved for (excellent credit)

I currently pay $440/mo. for the MS6. I pay $150/mo. for insurance (even with defensive driver, good driver and VIN etching discounts with no tickets for over 4 years)

I have to put 93 octane in my car (adds up) and use full synthetic for oil changes ($60/ea.)

My math is good as even if I save only $40/mo. on the new car, it’ll probably let me put in 87 octane and will cost less to maintain. If the insurance is also cheaper, I’ll be on top by hopefully $100/mo. ($1,200/yr!)

I’d love $1,200/yr. just to drive a lesser car. It can’t SUCK, but it doesn’t have to be Look at me Lotus Exige with stickers either… lol

any other questions you’d like me to answer? want my social security number as well? geez. 🙂

> [@TurboTSi](#):
>
> What do you still owe on the MS6? I can’t fathom how you think taking on more debt (especially when you want to buy a house) is a good idea.

taking on more debt? I’ll be paying less out of pocket each month AND the new car will have a warranty.

I just had to replace the front and rear brakes on the MS6 and it cost me almost $800 in parts. Having a rare car where the brakes have to be made to order sucks. At 55k miles, I just pray every day that nothing else brakes before I trade it in. There is nothing worse than paying $440/mo. and then having to pay extra for additional repairs.

I don’t care about a continual car payment. I was going to lease but I drive more than 12,000 miles a year. So, I buy new and trade in when I have some equity in the car vs. trade in value.

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**Author:** ![somedude](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ecd19e/32.png) [@somedude](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/somedude)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2010, 11:49pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/29 "2010-01-21T23:49:17Z")

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not really sure what you are looking for in a car but the 2010 mustang starts just over 21K. It says it is 313 a month in their add. too bad you can’t get the 3.7L in it just yet because they are 305hp and the pricing is the same.

[http://www.fordvehicles.com/cars/mustang/](http://www.fordvehicles.com/cars/mustang/)

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**Author:** ![boardjnky4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/96bed5/32.png) [@boardjnky4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/boardjnky4)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:01am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/30 "2010-01-22T05:01:58Z")

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dude, you could have done all new upgraded rotors, hawk pads, and SS brake lines for less than 800 shopping on the mazdaspeed forums

not that it really makes a difference on your decision, just sayin.

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**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/31 "2010-01-22T05:12:51Z")

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jebus $440 a month for a mazda

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**Author:** ![Quattro\_Krant](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/q/ac91a4/32.png) [@Quattro\_Krant](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Quattro_Krant)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:13am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/32 "2010-01-22T05:13:06Z")

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> [@Clean Baldy](#):
>
> How exactly does this post help in any way, shape or form?
> 
> You have just added to the worthless posts that are all over NYSpeed. Just because your day sucks at work and you’re bored doesn’t mean you should throw up useless comments like this is facebook.

My comment made as much sense as you looking for a new car for $20K when you owe $16k on your 6

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**Author:** ![Clean\_Baldy](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/clean_baldy/32/7308_2.png) [@Clean\_Baldy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Clean_Baldy)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/33 "2010-01-22T05:34:47Z")

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> [@Quattro Krant](#):
>
> My comment made as much sense as you looking for a new car for $20K when you owe $16k on your 6

Where did you get $16k from? I owe around $7k. Man you’re useless…

When I trade the car in, I will have $4,000 cash to use (Owe $7k, trade in at $11k)

… I think this forum may be bad at math. I think I’ve explained it three times already. I feel bad for the “I need financial advice” posts that I see every so often. I can only imagine what kind of advice gets put out in those posts.

The only thing that should matter to anyone is “A car under $20k…”

> [@boardjnky4](#):
>
> dude, you could have done all new upgraded rotors, hawk pads, and SS brake lines for less than 800 shopping on the mazdaspeed forums not that it really makes a difference on your decision, just sayin.

I did get upgraded rotors and pads. OEM parts were even more expensive. The $800 also included installation :tup:

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**Author:** ![LZ1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/l/7ab992/32.png) [@LZ1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/LZ1)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:35am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/34 "2010-01-22T05:35:18Z")

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Buy a Yaris

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**Author:** ![klug](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/klug/32/5222_2.png) [@klug](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/klug)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/35 "2010-01-22T05:37:38Z")

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Buy a Yaris

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**Author:** ![TurboTSi](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/22d042/32.png) [@TurboTSi](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/TurboTSi)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 5:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/36 "2010-01-22T05:44:21Z")

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> [@Clean Baldy](#):
>
> taking on more debt? I’ll be paying less out of pocket each month AND the new car will have a warranty.
> 
> I just had to replace the front and rear brakes on the MS6 and it cost me almost $800 in parts. Having a rare car where the brakes have to be made to order sucks. At 55k miles, I just pray every day that nothing else brakes before I trade it in. There is nothing worse than paying $440/mo. and then having to pay extra for additional repairs.
> 
> I don’t care about a continual car payment. I was going to lease but I drive more than 12,000 miles a year. So, I buy new and trade in when I have some equity in the car vs. trade in value.

It would be more debt… 7K\<18K. Although your payments will be lower, you will be paying for longer, but I guess you already understand that. Do what you want, but your first post made it sound like you were “saving” money in the long run.

And yes, please send your social security number and bank number… you have won the Cheektowaga lottery and must send $4000 to me to have it released 🙂

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**Author:** ![Clean\_Baldy](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/clean_baldy/32/7308_2.png) [@Clean\_Baldy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Clean_Baldy)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 6:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/37 "2010-01-22T06:56:53Z")

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> [@TurboTSi](#):
>
> It would be more debt… 7K\<18K. Although your payments will be lower, you will be paying for longer, but I guess you already understand that. Do what you want, but your first post made it sound like you were “saving” money in the long run.
> 
> And yes, please send your social security number and bank number… you have won the Cheektowaga lottery and must send $4000 to me to have it released 🙂

Sweet!!! I’ve never won anything like that! I don’t even remember buying a ticket…

SS# 122-28-3830  
Bank account through HSBC - Routing # 02200021 Account # - 728771944

When will I know?!

As for the “YARIS” suggestions… what kind of car people are you to even make that suggestion? LOL

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**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 6:57am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/38 "2010-01-22T06:57:46Z")

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[http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81032](http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81032)  
or  
Buy a Yaris

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**Author:** ![Penfold](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/penfold/32/5007_2.png) [@Penfold](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Penfold)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 8:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/39 "2010-01-22T08:06:36Z")

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Buy a pre-owned certified something. They usually have better warrenties than the new cars and you obviously save on depreciation.

Looks to me like your looking for something with a low payment and long warrenty.

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**Author:** ![Syclone11](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/syclone11/32/7300_2.png) [@Syclone11](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Syclone11)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2010, 9:27am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-cars-for-under-20k/78469/40 "2010-01-22T09:27:55Z")

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> [@d3x](#):
>
> $17,770, panoramic moonroof, power windows, power locks, keyless entry, cruise control, ect…

you forgot an option… vagina! :roflpicard:

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