# New Engine Breakin **URL:** \ **Category:** PittSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [April 28, 2008, 4:11am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-engine-breakin/197137 "2008-04-28T04:11:40Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 11
**Author:** ![dyingwish](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dyingwish/32/6041_2.png) [@dyingwish](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/dyingwish)\ **Post date:** [April 28, 2008, 8:19am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-engine-breakin/197137/11 "2008-04-28T08:19:45Z")
> [@This is why you get every agrement in writing...](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/this-is-why-you-get-every-agrement-in-writing/36100/20): > > Lastly, idling the car is the worst thing you can do. That 20" of vacuum is sucking hard on the rings when instead you want less vacuum to help seal them. If you let that motor sit there and idle for like 20min, it would smoke the rest of its life. Definitly get it ready, go drive it or something! That idling time is just enough time to let it warm to temp (or close to it) and be sure nothing is malfunctioning. You can’t / shouldn’t fire it up and pull out of the driveway instantly. It HAS to idle for a bit, not necessarily 20 min, I just threw an arbitrary time out there. Ring tension (which is the ONLY factor involved in ring seating, that can change) is only 5-7 lbs/in inside the cylinder, so at a slow idle there is a considerably slower ring break-in…hence the reason to let it sit and get warm so everything else is where it should be. After that THEN get on it, load is the only way to raise the ring tension so that they aggressively wear down the microscopic peaks on the cylinder wall in the correct way. You are right that long idling times will smooth out the peaks in the wall, but leave the valleys which will lead to poor rings seal. --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-engine-breakin/197137)._