# new local domestic tuner

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-local-domestic-tuner/253159>\
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive\
**Created:** [July 6, 2010, 6:14pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-local-domestic-tuner/253159 "2010-07-06T18:14:09Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 201

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**Author:** ![jdaniels](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/jdaniels/32/6399_2.png) [@jdaniels](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/jdaniels)\
**Post date:** [July 10, 2010, 11:01pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-local-domestic-tuner/253159/201 "2010-07-10T23:01:07Z")

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> [@\*\*\*\*\*Official: Mighty Meet Thread\*\*\*\*\*](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/official-mighty-meet-thread/10918/2342):
>
> Lolz @ this thread.
> 
> Tuning a car’s PCM for performance or whatever else you may choose to do doesn’t require a college degree or extensive training in order to be done successfully.
> 
> You do, however, have to know exactly what you are doing to the car when you are changing parameters around in the program. Example being: If the car is seeing KR (Knock), you can’t just dump fuel up top like some “prestige tuners” have been known to do and then expect the tune to be safe because 9 times out of 10 these “safe” tunes are going to pop motors and cause owners to point fingers at the tuner for blowing up on their almighty “safe” tune.

I would love to agree with you, but I don’t. There is a big difference between TWEAKING the tune on a bolt-on car with factory cams and actually TUNING a car. Once you start adding non-factory internals and FI, you change the game… It takes a lot of know-how and experience to _successfully_ tune.

I would also like to know what waterhead dipshit is dumping fuel in a motor to suppress knock…

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