# Post a PIC of your latest purchase. **URL:** \ **Category:** Shift518 Off Topic\ **Created:** [February 14, 2008, 1:56pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/post-a-pic-of-your-latest-purchase/235672 "2008-02-14T13:56:25Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 16359
**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\ **Post date:** [July 30, 2012, 12:04pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/post-a-pic-of-your-latest-purchase/235672/16359 "2012-07-30T12:04:11Z")
> [@WTH: Driver](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wth-driver/50293/7): > > I have that exact torch and gas lense in liquid cooled format. Very good setup. Pyrex cup is very fragile, so buy a few spares NOW before you get halfway through a job and shatter one because you set the torch down a little too hard. > > I’ve got another that the torch is about 1/2" long from the back of the torch head to the tip of the tungsten and has a little 1/4" diameter pyrex cup that I always fucking break. I have to grind and cut pieces of tungsten that are a hair over 3/8" long :lol I heard they are tits for SS work and keeping them all pretty looking for teh interwebz picture taking. The normal gas lens and a #8 (largest aluma cup i could find at the time and never cared to change it from necessity) I out run my shielding gas so my trailing welds aren’t cooled bellow the oxidization temperature while still shielded. So i would have to go in 1/2 - 5/8 steps around a joint to keep it shielded long enough. I am hoping I can blow a 1" long bead and still stay shielded with this. Since I am usually out of position/run out of skill (lol) at 1" its time for me to re-position anyways. PM coming. becasue its been atleast a month since I bugged you. LOL --- _[View the full topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/post-a-pic-of-your-latest-purchase/235672)._