# Psyco-Clone

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/psyco-clone/185561>\
**Category:** Builds\
**Created:** [October 12, 2006, 5:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/psyco-clone/185561 "2006-10-12T17:43:59Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 167

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**Author:** ![AeroKing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/aeroking/32/6011_2.png) [@AeroKing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/AeroKing)\
**Post date:** [April 30, 2007, 8:26am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/psyco-clone/185561/167 "2007-04-30T08:26:11Z")

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> [@Mindless \> Freek](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/mindless-freek/29796/25):
>
> sideways-sounds really fast  
> if your motor mount is broke youll know but the cuts the alt will put in your headliner.  
> also the truck will take off then at wot timimg will pull back and the truck will fall on its face until you lift a little , then it will speed back up.  
> -its a bitch btw to change something like 2+ hours for the driver side
> 
> a torque strap is always a good idea even when it isnt broke
> 
> this is a pic of the old strap thats not adjustable-i have a racheting one now

i’ll take a pic of mine tonight, and yes, at WOT it fell on its face.

i went through 3 rad hoses (didnt hit hood, cause its a 2" cowl) before i put my turnbuckle on, now it does twist at all.

but i still have to change the motor mount. if i do, i might only change the driver side first. then later on, change the pass side.

debating whether i should go solid, or just rubber mounts (i have the torque strap, so i shouldnt do any damage to new rubber one).

BTW, how do I put new mounts in?? do i go in through the bottom, or top?? and do i have to lift the motor, or drop the front diff?

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