# Rebuild Silverado rear axle? **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [May 13, 2013, 10:08am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582 "2013-05-13T10:08:19Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 10\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![travisn](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/travisn/32/5046_2.png) [@travisn](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/travisn)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 10:08am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/1 "2013-05-13T10:08:19Z")
So both seals on my truck are leaking and I’d like to take care of it this summer. This kit with Timken bearings seems good: [http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Chevrolet/Silverado\_1500/Timken/Differential\_Rebuild\_Kit/1999/LS/8\_Cyl\_5-dot-3L/TMDRK324B.html?loc=Rear&intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller](http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Chevrolet/Silverado_1500/Timken/Differential_Rebuild_Kit/1999/LS/8_Cyl_5-dot-3L/TMDRK324B.html?loc=Rear&intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller) but is it something I can do myself? I have all of the tools except a dial torque wrench that I can get or buy. I also found this DIY [http://www.truckmodcentral.com/forums/f168/gm-10-bolt-rear-gear-install-setup-11732/](http://www.truckmodcentral.com/forums/f168/gm-10-bolt-rear-gear-install-setup-11732/) The steps I am worried about are the most important: setting proper back lash and pre-load. I really don’t want to take it to a shop, mainly because it’s something I want to learn how to do and secondly because I’m relatively poor these days. since I’m only changing bearings and seals I should be able to use the old shims, right? I also plan on changing the backing plates and getting the parking brake working during the same repair. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/uploads/speedlife/original/2X/b/b7170c8eddc0b95ece6b88172b2f416a08489a45.png) [@system](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/system)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 10:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/2 "2013-05-13T10:12:06Z")
If you have never done something like this before the learning curve would be pretty steep. If the axle seals are leaking why don’t you just replace them and call it a day? ---
**Author:** ![mike125k](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike125k/32/7282_2.png) [@mike125k](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/mike125k)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 10:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/3 "2013-05-13T10:14:38Z")
Saying both seals I’m going to assume your axle shaft seals are leaking behind the backing plate. You don’t need to touch the ring/pinion to change these so re-setting backlash isn’t an issue. Just remove pumpkin cover, pop out the C clips on the carrier, slide out axles, change seals, and reverse. It’s a fairly simple job. ---
**Author:** ![travisn](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/travisn/32/5046_2.png) [@travisn](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/travisn)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 10:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/4 "2013-05-13T10:42:09Z")
Yea, it’s just the seals. but I figured the truck has almost 200k on it so a little preventative maintenance wouldn’t hurt… ---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:36 PM ---------- I can’t find the seals separate on rock auto’s site, they do have seal and bearing kit for $150 though ---
**Author:** ![mike125k](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike125k/32/7282_2.png) [@mike125k](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/mike125k)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 10:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/5 "2013-05-13T10:45:25Z")
Most local parts stores have them, its an axle seal. Changed them on my Blazer before, cost around $10. ---
**Author:** ![ryanbgb22](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/7feea3/32.png) [@ryanbgb22](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ryanbgb22)\ **Post date:** [May 13, 2013, 1:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/6 "2013-05-13T13:23:20Z")
Any parts store will have them. Doing the outer seals and bearings is super easy. Rent a slide hammer to help get the seals and bearings out. 2 bearings, 2 seals, cover gasket, fluid, and done. ---
**Author:** ![99\_civic\_si](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/99_civic_si/32/7319_2.png) [@99\_civic\_si](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/99_civic_si)\ **Post date:** [May 15, 2013, 9:39pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/7 "2013-05-15T21:39:12Z")
> [@J & J](#): > > If you have never done something like this before the learning curve would be pretty steep. If the axle seals are leaking why don’t you just replace them and call it a day? This. I’ve done a ton of mechanical work and I thought this was a pita. Took me forever to get shimming correct for a perfect gear pattern. ---
**Author:** ![Pauly](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pauly/32/7493_2.png) [@Pauly](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Pauly)\ **Post date:** [May 16, 2013, 3:22am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/8 "2013-05-16T03:22:43Z")
There is no shimming required here.you are just removing the c clips. i’d be more worried about breaking the cross shaft pin. Even if you needed to pull the carrier (which you dont) you would just re install the shims that came out. ---
**Author:** ![travisn](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/travisn/32/5046_2.png) [@travisn](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/travisn)\ **Post date:** [May 16, 2013, 8:16am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/9 "2013-05-16T08:16:07Z")
Ok, sweet. I usually plan for the worst and just do everything while I am in there, but I’ll just change the seals and bearings at the end. Now I just have to crawl under there and see what brake components I need to get the parking brake working again. I think it’s the cable in the front that broke. Since I have a few peoples attention, I also have to change a brake line that goes from the master to the abs valves. I’ve heard that you need a tech2 to pulse the abs during bleeding to get the air out, but I’ve never actually known anyone that’s done it. thoughts? The line right under the master rusted out from rubbing on the inner fender and the pedal came back after adding fluid so maybe air hasn’t made it into the pump yet? But once I take the line off to replace it I’m sure fluid will leak out of it introducing air right to the pump. ---
**Author:** ![mike125k](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/mike125k/32/7282_2.png) [@mike125k](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/mike125k)\ **Post date:** [May 16, 2013, 8:24am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rebuild-silverado-rear-axle/230582/10 "2013-05-16T08:24:34Z")
You do not need a tech 2 to pulse the ABS. I just replaced both lines from the master to ABS module on my 02 Sierra a few weeks ago. You can bleed them like normal without any issues. Tip of advice though, bleed them once like normal with truck off. Start truck bleed again to free up air from module. Shut off (or leave on, doesn’t really matter) and bleed one last time to get remaining air out. Done it this way on 2 different GM trucks and you’ll have a perfect pedal when you’re done.