# Removing A/C P/S

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-a-c-p-s/198545>\
**Category:** PittSpeed Automotive\
**Created:** [July 15, 2008, 5:00pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-a-c-p-s/198545 "2008-07-15T17:00:51Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 10

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**Author:** ![cmross13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/a6a055/32.png) [@cmross13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/cmross13)\
**Post date:** [July 27, 2008, 1:08am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-a-c-p-s/198545/10 "2008-07-27T01:08:38Z")

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> [@FS: Hockey Goalie Glove \*SOLD\*](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-hockey-goalie-glove-sold/33595/32):
>
> …drop a nice k series in it

worst. advice. ever.

k-swap is for fanboys who read magazines and think “i can save up $200 a week for the next 3 years”. the real bottom line is its gonna run you $10K to do it right, unless you can buy a backhalved RSX-S for next to nothing. $6K for an engine/trans, $1K for a header, $1K for K-Pro, $500 for mounts, etc etc etc.

best bang for the buck, buy a $1K Greddy turbo kit for your y8, spend an extra $350 on a front mount and injectors/pump, and $300 on a decent tune session. you will blow a k20 off the road and should run safe for a few years.

and to those who say “but a k-swap has more potential”, tell them that when you blow their stupid k-doors off.

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