# removing rusted bleeder screws

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711>\
**Category:** SON240sx Automotive\
**Created:** [March 18, 2009, 8:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711 "2009-03-18T20:37:59Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 8:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/1 "2009-03-18T20:37:59Z")

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my passenger rear bleeder screw is rusted, Ive tried using WD-40 and using a torch but it wouldn’t move at all.

anyone knows any other ways to get it free without braking the bleeder screw?

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**Author:** ![KA24Power](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ka24power/32/5595_2.png) [@KA24Power](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KA24Power)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 8:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/2 "2009-03-18T20:41:06Z")

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heat it to almost red hot with a torch, then cool it with cold water right away. make sure you get it cold. then heat it again, cool. once more heat cycle it, and after cooling it get a 10mm socket on it - not a wrench - and give it a sharp left handed twist. both of mine were seized and using this method worked fine for me. Make sure you give it a quick twist though, don’t slowly apply pressure or it’ll just break off.

Hope this works for you!

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**Author:** ![KA24Power](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ka24power/32/5595_2.png) [@KA24Power](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KA24Power)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 8:41pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/3 "2009-03-18T20:41:45Z")

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forgot to mention - make sure you don’t try to loosen the bleeder while its warm. The metal will be way too soft and it’ll probably just break right off.

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**Author:** ![DirrtyDevo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirrtydevo/32/5547_2.png) [@DirrtyDevo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DirrtyDevo)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 8:47pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/4 "2009-03-18T20:47:36Z")

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^^^with that being said only heat up the caliper around the bleeder do not get the bleeder itself glowing hot.

You can also try giving the caliper a couple hard hits with a hammer around the bleeder screw before you cool it down to shock the threads and break up some of the corrosion keeping it in stuck in there.

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**Author:** ![simplemind7](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/0ea827/32.png) [@simplemind7](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/simplemind7)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 9:12pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/5 "2009-03-18T21:12:21Z")

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In addition to what they said, use an impact gun to remove it if you have one, it will do a better job of shocking it loose than you can with your hand.

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**Author:** ![DirrtyDevo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirrtydevo/32/5547_2.png) [@DirrtyDevo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DirrtyDevo)\
**Post date:** [March 18, 2009, 10:39pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/6 "2009-03-18T22:39:34Z")

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I cringed a bit thinking of an air gun…maybe a air ratchet :S

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**Author:** ![simplemind7](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/0ea827/32.png) [@simplemind7](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/simplemind7)\
**Post date:** [March 19, 2009, 6:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/7 "2009-03-19T06:56:49Z")

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Air ratchet doesn’t give the same jolt an impact does… you’ll look like an idiot impacting a 10mm off, but I have never broken a bleeder screw using an impact.

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**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\
**Post date:** [March 19, 2009, 11:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/8 "2009-03-19T11:39:35Z")

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> [@who can ps my car?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/who-can-ps-my-car/20900/25):
>
> Air ratchet doesn’t give the same jolt an impact does… you’ll look like an idiot impacting a 10mm off, but I have never broken a bleeder screw using an impact.

This man knows the tricks…

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 20, 2009, 4:40pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/9 "2009-03-20T16:40:34Z")

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I do have an impact gun in my garage

do I use the gun after I heat it up with a torch and cool it with cold water?

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**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\
**Post date:** [March 20, 2009, 5:13pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/10 "2009-03-20T17:13:03Z")

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Do it before you heat it up too much more so you don’t melt the seals in the caliper.

I know when we did Osad’s car we ended up just replacing the caliper because it was easier.

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 21, 2009, 3:56pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/11 "2009-03-21T15:56:32Z")

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okay before I proceed doin this

if I break the bleeder screw where can I bring it to get the rest of the bleeder screw out

or get a rebuild if possible

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 22, 2009, 5:45pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/12 "2009-03-22T17:45:56Z")

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I went out today to try to get off the bleeder screw. I used a torch, cool it with cold water and repeated the steps about 2 more times.

tried to get it goin with a 10mm socket but it still wouldnt move. I used the impact gun and the bleeder screw just broke right off.

anyone know a way to get the rest of it out or know a place I can get a rebuild?

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**Author:** ![sidewayz240](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e99b99/32.png) [@sidewayz240](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/sidewayz240)\
**Post date:** [March 22, 2009, 6:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/13 "2009-03-22T18:02:45Z")

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Just go to napa, partsource, Ct, or any jobber, get a remanned one and give them that as your core.

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**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\
**Post date:** [March 22, 2009, 7:21pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/14 "2009-03-22T19:21:17Z")

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> [@Driftin-RPS13"](#):
>
> I went out today to try to get off the bleeder screw. I used a torch, cool it with cold water and repeated the steps about 2 more times.
> 
> tried to get it goin with a 10mm socket but it still wouldnt move. **I used the impact gun and the bleeder screw just broke right off.**
> 
> anyone know a way to get the rest of it out or know a place I can get a rebuild?

You tempered it when you heated it and quenched it. Good job.

That’s why I said use the impact before you try heating it and quenching it.

This is also why people who don’t know how to loosen things with heat properly, shouldn’t.

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**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\
**Post date:** [March 23, 2009, 12:09pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/15 "2009-03-23T12:09:59Z")

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Like DJ said… you tempered the metal making it hard and brittle. Either take it to a machine shop and have them remove it for you or as suggested just get a replacement. Which sounds like would be your best bet.

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 23, 2009, 5:27pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/16 "2009-03-23T17:27:08Z")

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I went to Part Source today and bought one there.

Hopefully I wont have any other problems later on after the bleeding process.

btw is the bleedin process RL -\> RR -\> FL -\> FR or RL -\> RR -\> FR -\> FL?

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**Author:** ![DirrtyDevo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirrtydevo/32/5547_2.png) [@DirrtyDevo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DirrtyDevo)\
**Post date:** [March 24, 2009, 9:51pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/17 "2009-03-24T21:51:41Z")

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Start from the furthest point from the brake booster, that would be the passenger rear, drivers rear, front passenger then front drivers.

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 29, 2009, 12:13pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/18 "2009-03-29T12:13:33Z")

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I replaced all bleeder screws just incase if they were seized or something. I bleeded the brakes and now the car is fine. Thanks alot guys!

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**Author:** ![Tarz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/43a26b/32.png) [@Tarz](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Tarz)\
**Post date:** [March 29, 2009, 12:25pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/19 "2009-03-29T12:25:09Z")

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i didnt read the post so i dunno where ur at but at my school when i was going for auto tech said heat it up really hot then take a candle and put it to where the threads are the wax will melt in lubing the threads and getting inbetween the rust then throw cold watter o n it and just slowly work it out with a wrench back and forth

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**Author:** ![Driftin-RPS13](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/67e7ee/32.png) [@Driftin-RPS13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Driftin-RPS13)\
**Post date:** [March 29, 2009, 12:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/removing-rusted-bleeder-screws/122711/20 "2009-03-29T12:31:05Z")

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^ thats what the other members said up in those posts. I already replaced all 4 the bleeder screws and had no problems bleeding the brakes.

I took it out for a test drive most of the day yesterday and its runnin strong still, brakes working good as well.

once again, thanks everyone who helped me.

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