# Replacing floor board.

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248
**Category:** SON240sx Automotive
**Created:** [November 1, 2009, 2:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248 "2009-11-01T14:42:20Z")
**Posts on this page:** 10
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)
#### Post date: [November 1, 2009, 2:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/1 "2009-11-01T14:42:20Z")

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so just got my 240 home and stripped everything outta it.  
and i have two massive holes in the passager side floor and one pretty decent size hole in the drivers side floor.

my question is to people who have replaced/repaired floor boards is how hard is it? how safe is it afterwards?

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### Author: ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)
#### Post date: [November 1, 2009, 4:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/2 "2009-11-01T16:46:32Z")

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oh and BTW i would be welding in a new floor. not fibreglassing or riveting.

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### Author: ![kollo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/kollo/32/5661_2.png) [@kollo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kollo)
#### Post date: [November 1, 2009, 4:55pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/3 "2009-11-01T16:55:02Z")

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its fine and safe use something like a 18gauge sheet metal and if you can crease lines in it as they will add alot of rigidity to it you can take a small size dowel and hammer the metal around it then flat again so the metal will be flat with a 1/4" or so bump down it with a few of those it will be just as strong as stock

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### Author: ![kollo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/kollo/32/5661_2.png) [@kollo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kollo)
#### Post date: [November 1, 2009, 4:55pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/4 "2009-11-01T16:55:45Z")

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oh yes and spot weld it so you dont burn threw the metal then rock guard it very good

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### Author: ![S13GG](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/s13gg/32/5506_2.png) [@S13GG](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/S13GG)
#### Post date: [November 2, 2009, 6:04am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/5 "2009-11-02T06:04:42Z")

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trust me it is easier to cut those holes large,

make a cardboard template (I replaced 1/2 my drivers foot well rather than 2 cigerette pack sized holes)

overlaped the existing metal by 3/4" and welded them in solid, spot weld by spot weld… until it was totally welded in.

then primer, seam sealer, paint, undercoating

not too difficult, if you plan on going large rather than little stupid shapes…

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### Author: ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)
#### Post date: [November 2, 2009, 6:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/6 "2009-11-02T06:47:11Z")

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i was planning on replacing both driver and passenger floor. i have a couple pictures if u wanna look at it and tell me whatcha think i will post when im home

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### Author: ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)
#### Post date: [November 3, 2009, 6:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/7 "2009-11-03T06:45:41Z")

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![http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/norton240/100_0309-1.jpg](http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/norton240/100_0309-1.jpg)  
Passenger Floor

![http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/norton240/100_0313-1.jpg](http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb67/norton240/100_0313-1.jpg)  
Driver side

circled red where the rust is right through the floor

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### Author: ![Skinny](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/skinny/32/5584_2.png) [@Skinny](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Skinny)
#### Post date: [November 9, 2009, 7:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/8 "2009-11-09T07:33:52Z")

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ok so any opinions would help. basically finding these holes and the one in the frame and the one in the roof is making me think. Is it cheaper to fix this car or get clean chassis.  
what does son think? is it cheaper to repair floor, and frame, or cheaper to get a clean rolling chassis?

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### Author: ![nitescream](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/8797f3/32.png) [@nitescream](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/nitescream)
#### Post date: [November 9, 2009, 7:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/9 "2009-11-09T07:44:36Z")

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> [@attention whoring with your CGT](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/attention-whoring-with-your-cgt/24719/18):
>
> ok so any opinions would help. basically finding these holes and the one in the frame and the one in the roof is making me think. Is it cheaper to fix this car or get clean chassis.  
> what does son think? is it cheaper to repair floor, and frame, or cheaper to get a clean rolling chassis?

Fix the car is better for you! after its all done you know what you have. Doesnt have to be pretty just has to work.

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### Author: ![Mi\_240sx](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/a9a28c/32.png) [@Mi\_240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Mi_240sx)
#### Post date: [November 15, 2009, 12:08pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/replacing-floor-board/129248/10 "2009-11-15T12:08:28Z")

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I just did all of this over the summer, but mine was way worse. like the other said just cut out the worst of it (nice clean squares make it way easier) and weld in new steel. Make sure you clean up the area around where you are welding, especially the under side, that undercoating burns and smells terrible. Its not really hard to fix but can be tiime consuming.
