# Rust Repair body shops

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085>\
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive\
**Created:** [January 14, 2014, 11:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085 "2014-01-14T11:56:36Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 3

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**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 9:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/41 "2014-01-21T09:18:59Z")

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+rep!  
If you don’t know who he is, you have no idea the level of irony that comment hit… if you know who he is then you are one sarcastic son of a bitch! loool

for real check your rep.

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**Author:** ![BDSKJChris](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/59ef9b/32.png) [@BDSKJChris](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BDSKJChris)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 9:19am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/42 "2014-01-21T09:19:28Z")

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> [@WTF: Decent 2008 Newbie](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtf-decent-2008-newbie/53798/5):
>
> Love4boost, That is what I am talking about… **How long is a patch going to last???So you cut out the rust hole and patch it 3 month later it starts rusting** just to the left or right of the patch… **If rust came through on a fender in one spot the whole fender is the same age so there is rust there it just hasnt come through yet** …Then you weld in a patch and the **heat from welding speeds up the process of rust** …And by the way if you are patching the rust there is bondo/filler in the repair there has to be…Again the only way to get rid of rust is to replace the panel…So you are no better than the rest,That is the way they all do it PATCH…any body man will tell you it wont last…But as with all dealers the game is to get it sold…And dont even try to tell me your not that way…Money is why your there fix it cheap sell it high…It is the way it is…The nature of the beast…Im not saying your wrong its just business…Right or wrong…Bill

you clearly have no fucking clue what you are talking about.

**How long is a patch going to last?**  
 that depends on how well the patch is performed, if all you do is cut the patch weld it in, then prime and paint , not long at all. but if the patch metal is cleaned, de-scaled, wiped down and acid etched, before the paint process then it will last as long as the car runs.

**If rust came through on a fender in one spot the whole fender is the same age so there is rust there it just hasnt come through yet.**  
 NO…just fucking no. metal doesnt oxidize because its old, it oxidizes and corrodes when the bare metal is directly exposed to oxygen or any corrosive elements (such as salt, or water).

**heat from welding speeds up the process of rust.**  
 then explain to me how hot rolled steel doesnt rust faster than cold rolled?..its not the heat, when the metal is molten or extremely hot and impurities such as air come into contact with it the contaminate it and create a starting point for rust…why do you think there is pre-flow and post-flow on mig and tig welders?

i had a rust spot on my vehicle that bubbled through the paint and i did the repair right using nothing but touch up paint…4 years ago and to this day there is still zero rust in that area.

next time you try to argue about metallurgy because a couple of your buddies are fucking hacks and you think you know everything, open a fucking book first.

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**Author:** ![n00gaM](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/8e8cbc/32.png) [@n00gaM](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/n00gaM)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 9:24am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/43 "2014-01-21T09:24:14Z")

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[quote=“KrazyKid,post:39,topic:53677"”]

+rep!  
If you don’t know who he is, you have no idea the level of irony that comment hit… if you know who he is then you are one sarcastic son of a bitch! loool

for real check your rep.

[/quote]

I dont but it is a bad ass picture

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 9:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/44 "2014-01-21T09:39:28Z")

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> [@SOLD](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sold/53322/43):
>
> I dont but it is a bad ass picture

Bill Hines.

Man literally has 28%+ lead content in his blood from doing the worlds best body work for 60+ years. That man can take a shit with more body work skills than the entire staff combined at “XYZ Autobody” around here.

And there are men out there who can take a sheet of cold rolled and form a 32 chevy rear quarter, trunk gasket surface to door jamb with an english wheel, bead roller and thats about it… in less time than you can walk into Keystone, order a 1/4 and have them pull it off the shelf.

I aspire to be a metal shaper, not a body man. 🙂

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**Author:** ![DragnDoor](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/4491bb/32.png) [@DragnDoor](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DragnDoor)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 9:58am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/45 "2014-01-21T09:58:31Z")

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Why even fix rust? You will get way more street cred if you just rust the whole car. Shiny cars are for old people.

 ![http://ekhatch.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/3517969762_d1ebb15158_o.jpg](http://ekhatch.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/3517969762_d1ebb15158_o.jpg)

By more bmws from Singh, strip paint, drive car, get laid.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 10:00am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/46 "2014-01-21T10:00:37Z")

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I remember my first garage fire insurance scam.

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**Author:** ![indy440](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/b5ac83/32.png) [@indy440](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/indy440)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 10:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/47 "2014-01-21T10:06:01Z")

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> [@Toronto/Canada's Wonderland Pictures](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/toronto-canadas-wonderland-pictures/53742/10):
>
> pro-tech = skidmark in 30 years

Agreed. annoying.

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**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 10:15am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/48 "2014-01-21T10:15:29Z")

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to be honest he is partially correct… but the vaugeness in his reply was easy to shoot holes in.

which is why i stuck to tech as a rebuttle.

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**Author:** ![PJB](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pjb/32/6389_2.png) [@PJB](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/PJB)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 10:53am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/49 "2014-01-21T10:53:16Z")

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> [@WTF: Decent 2008 Newbie](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtf-decent-2008-newbie/53798/5):
>
> Love4boost, That is what I am talking about…How long is a patch going to last???So you cut out the rust hole and patch it 3 month later it starts rusting just to the left or right of the patch…If rust came through on a fender in one spot the whole fender is the same age so there is rust there it just hasnt come through yet…Then you weld in a patch and the heat from welding speeds up the process of rust…And by the way if you are patching the rust there is bondo/filler in the repair there has to be…Again the only way to get rid of rust is to replace the panel…So you are no better than the rest,That is the way they all do it PATCH…any body man will tell you it wont last…But as with all dealers the game is to get it sold…And dont even try to tell me your not that way…Money is why your there fix it cheap sell it high…It is the way it is…The nature of the beast…Im not saying your wrong its just business…Right or wrong…Bill

So by your logic about age fuck repairing rust, replace the entire car because iits the same age as the rusty panel

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**Author:** ![rexford\_flats\_racing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/rexford_flats_racing/32/6295_2.png) [@rexford\_flats\_racing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/rexford_flats_racing)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 3:09pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/50 "2014-01-21T15:09:59Z")

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> [@Pictures from Shifty's sunday meet](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/pictures-from-shiftys-sunday-meet/53437/37):
>
> I remember my first garage fire insurance scam.

I miss Pro Circuit.

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**Author:** ![pro-tech](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pro-tech/32/6787_2.png) [@pro-tech](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pro-tech)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 3:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/51 "2014-01-21T15:26:08Z")

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So were all on the same page if you weld a patch in the heat will burn the paint off inside the panel and the rust will form on the unprotected metel… And if that doesnt make sense to any of you your just plain fucking stupid…And I can no longer have a battle of wits with anyone thats unarmed…Get your head out of your ass and think…Ask any good body man what is the BEST way to fix rust unless he is a hack he will tell you replace the panel…

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**Author:** ![pro-tech](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pro-tech/32/6787_2.png) [@pro-tech](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pro-tech)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 3:28pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/52 "2014-01-21T15:28:45Z")

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> [@Toronto/Canada's Wonderland Pictures](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/toronto-canadas-wonderland-pictures/53742/10):
>
> pro-tech = skidmark in 30 years

What the fuck does that mean???..If you have skidmarks take a shower

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![pro-tech](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pro-tech/32/6787_2.png) [@pro-tech](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pro-tech)\
**Post date:** [January 21, 2014, 3:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/53 "2014-01-21T15:37:07Z")

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> [@KrazyKid"](#):
>
> Because there is a rust spot on say 1” of a panel, and the panel is say an entire door skin that’s 18.85 years old, doesn’t mean the entire door is magically rusting out without you knowing till it’s too late. Rust starts from a defect in the finish that allows impurities access to unprotected metal, simple as that. It takes an awful long time for oxygen to wick into a sealed surface unless the surface is defective. I have worked on cars that had bubbly rotted out shit metal, and 2 inches away from that is paint over perfectly good metal that if the surface is unaffected (and the rot didn’t steam roll over the good metal) it would never be a problem.
> 
> Patches are perfectly good and will/can outlast the rest of the car when constructed and carried out properly. I am talking by metal shapers, not crash bang repair men. Making patches and full panels for cars that zero replacements exist for. Those same people could form a replacement cab corner for a 2009 ram if need be to do a crash bang repair and install it that will stand the test of time… where as a run of the mill crash/banger can’t do the panel fab AND repair like the metal shaper. Both get the job done, one is done way better.
> 
> Heat doesn’t speed up rust.
> 
> There doesn’t have to be filler/bondo for a patch job. See metal shaper VS crash bang repair man.
> 
> Above, I am not talking about running a dealer/a body shop/chop shop/scammer shop… I am talking the actual work involved with doing a proper repair. Hours, time, money, profit margin, etc removed from the equation. Now, as a “body man”, I will tell you a repair done by joe bob body man with a LKQ patch panel, a mig gun, a grinder and a bondo spreader like daves doing, like CRC did for some jobs, and like 99% of the “body shops” around here do for profitable work that is affordable to the ave joe driver, those repairs could last a month, or till the day that car is crushed. It is ALL in the hands of the laborer, when completing that INADIQUATE repair. Until the the TIG or gas torch, the hammers and dollies, the shrinker/stretchers, the English wheels, the slip rollers, the bead rollers, the planishing hammers, the shrinking disks, the cut off wheels to grind the welds (not grinding disks), the files, the sanding disks, ………………… come out and are all used effectively any other repair is inadequate when it comes to a 100% proper and potentially lifetime repair job. That work is timeless, there are millions of cars out that were repaired/customized in that way, the metal shaper way NOT the maaco way, done 80 years ago that have not and will not see rust come back/start in the next 20 years. I am here to argue the fundamental repair not the reason for the procedure set used to put paint infront of a customers eyes.

But how many people do it that way??? Im sure there are shops out there that are good and even still use lead as filler on seams…But most dont give a flying fuck and just want the almighty dollar for doing a bang up job…That is all I am saying… Most shops just want to make big bucks for little work…And most customers dont want to pay to have it done right…

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**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 7:59am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/54 "2014-01-22T07:59:35Z")

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> [@On another topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/53752/15):
>
> So were all on the same page if you weld a patch in the heat will burn the paint off inside the panel and the rust will form on the unprotected metel… And if that doesnt make sense to any of you your just plain fucking stupid…And I can no longer have a battle of wits with anyone thats unarmed…Get your head out of your ass and think…Ask any good body man what is the BEST way to fix rust unless he is a hack he will tell you replace the panel…

thats what I consider an incomplete job. end oh story.

Againt my simple end all be all arguement is this… do you just give up when you cant order a replacment complete header panel for a 1941 Mercury coupe? And if you actually find a replacement panel, your going to replace the entire fucking panel, all the parts attached to it, split the body, etc… and WELD a new one back in place anyways? And lets keep it relivant to the OP’s question… He has a rear 1/4 on a honda some shit that needs to be fixed. Those panels dont just get painted on a stand and bolted to the car! Your cutting the entire side off the car, removing the rear glass, drilling out the door jamb, the drip rail, pulling gaskets, drilling out tail light buckets, etc… and your still welding the fucking thing on in the end. Or panel bond it, sure take the easy way out. lol

> [@trying to find a good luxury AWD sedan-opinions needed](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/trying-to-find-a-good-luxury-awd-sedan-opinions-needed/53771/41):
>
> But how many people do it that way??? Im sure there are shops out there that are good and even still use lead as filler on seams…But most dont give a flying fuck and just want the almighty dollar for doing a bang up job…That is all I am saying… Most shops just want to make big bucks for little work…And most customers dont want to pay to have it done right…

My brother and I do.

And you dont need lead. Again, a skilled metal shaper can take 10 pieces of sheet, form them and weld them up, work the welds and panel to the point literally zero filler, plastic, lead, or fairydust is needed to prep the surface for primer and paint. Hell I can rip a piece of 20 ga in half, tig it back up, run it through the planishing hammer, prim and paint it and hand you the piece to point out where I made my cut/weld. you wont be able to show me I put money on that.

With the last part of that reply… this is why I invite you to re-read my comment where I said I am NOT here to argue business, profitability, etc. I am here to tell you that welding a fuckin patch panel in the correct way is 100% acceptible means to make a repair or modification. For fucks sake, how do you think a body is assembiled in the first place? Its welded in thousands of spots! Look at the small picture and work your way out to understand it… metal melts, flows together, is shielded from oxygen as it cools, you now have one fucking piece of material to work from. You fuck up the process before OR after that and you have an inadiquate repair. simple as that.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![BDSKJChris](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/59ef9b/32.png) [@BDSKJChris](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BDSKJChris)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 8:10am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/55 "2014-01-22T08:10:44Z")

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> [@On another topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/53752/15):
>
> So were all on the same page if you weld a patch in the heat will burn the paint off inside the panel and the rust will form on the unprotected **metel** … And if that **doesnt** make sense to any of you your just plain fucking stupid…And **I can no longer have a battle of wits** with anyone **thats** unarmed…Get your head out of your ass and think…Ask any good body man what is the **BEST way to fix rust unless he is a hack he will tell you replace the panel** …

learn how to spell, dipshit. nobody here is arguing that replacing a panel is the best way but you seem to think it is the only way. and no if you weld you should paint and rust-proof the backside of the panel…just give it up already, it’s getting sad watching your dumb ass ice skate up a hill.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![indy440](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/b5ac83/32.png) [@indy440](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/indy440)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 8:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/56 "2014-01-22T08:37:14Z")

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> [@Watch Crew: What to buy?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/watch-crew-what-to-buy/34295/255):
>
> What the fuck does that mean???..If you have skidmarks take a shower

skidmark is the user name of what most would consider the village around here.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![BDSKJChris](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/59ef9b/32.png) [@BDSKJChris](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BDSKJChris)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 10:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/57 "2014-01-22T10:14:15Z")

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> [@Watch Crew: What to buy?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/watch-crew-what-to-buy/34295/255):
>
> What the fuck does that mean???..If you have skidmarks take a shower

it means you are officially dumber than someone who couldn’t cut it at a tire shop…in other words: you are stupid beyond comprehension.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![d\_gage](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/d_gage/32/6321_2.png) [@d\_gage](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/d_gage)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 10:31am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/58 "2014-01-22T10:31:59Z")

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Some harsh words being thrown around

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![pro-tech](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pro-tech/32/6787_2.png) [@pro-tech](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pro-tech)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 10:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/59 "2014-01-22T10:32:48Z")

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> [@DIY: Custom Seats \*Pics Re-hosted\*](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/diy-custom-seats-pics-re-hosted/25446/47):
>
> learn how to spell, dipshit. nobody here is arguing that replacing a panel is the best way but you seem to think it is the only way. and no if you weld you should paint and rust-proof the backside of the panel…just give it up already, it’s getting sad watching your dumb ass ice skate up a hill.

Anybody can spell with spell check asshole…I guess your talking about metel instead of metal…Whatever half the shit on here is just that shit…So get over yourself!!!

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![pro-tech](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pro-tech/32/6787_2.png) [@pro-tech](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pro-tech)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2014, 10:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/rust-repair-body-shops/268085/60 "2014-01-22T10:39:39Z")

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> [@FS: Condo in Amherst](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-condo-in-amherst/53801/4):
>
> thats what I consider an incomplete job. end oh story.
> 
> Againt my simple end all be all arguement is this… do you just give up when you cant order a replacment complete header panel for a 1941 Mercury coupe? And if you actually find a replacement panel, your going to replace the entire fucking panel, all the parts attached to it, split the body, etc… and WELD a new one back in place anyways? And lets keep it relivant to the OP’s question… He has a rear 1/4 on a honda some shit that needs to be fixed. Those panels dont just get painted on a stand and bolted to the car! Your cutting the entire side off the car, removing the rear glass, drilling out the door jamb, the drip rail, pulling gaskets, drilling out tail light buckets, etc… and your still welding the fucking thing on in the end. Or panel bond it, sure take the easy way out. lol
> 
> My brother and I do.
> 
> And you dont need lead. Again, a skilled metal shaper can take 10 pieces of sheet, form them and weld them up, work the welds and panel to the point literally zero filler, plastic, lead, or fairydust is needed to prep the surface for primer and paint. Hell I can rip a piece of 20 ga in half, tig it back up, run it through the planishing hammer, prim and paint it and hand you the piece to point out where I made my cut/weld. you wont be able to show me I put money on that.
> 
> With the last part of that reply… this is why I invite you to re-read my comment where I said I am NOT here to argue business, profitability, etc. I am here to tell you that welding a fuckin patch panel in the correct way is 100% acceptible means to make a repair or modification. For fucks sake, how do you think a body is assembiled in the first place? Its welded in thousands of spots! Look at the small picture and work your way out to understand it… metal melts, flows together, is shielded from oxygen as it cools, you now have one fucking piece of material to work from. You fuck up the process before OR after that and you have an inadiquate repair. simple as that.

You guys are the kings…And are a rare breed and yes if you cant get the panel go for it and fabricate it…But there are people that will spend hours on a rust hole on a Civic fender and you can buy a new one for less then a $100…So whats the point…You are the greatest and everbody knows it…But BDSKJ is just an Asshole and everyone knows that too…

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