# S13 RB26 Swap

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/s13-rb26-swap/128615>\
**Category:** Builds\
**Created:** [October 7, 2009, 11:01am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/s13-rb26-swap/128615 "2009-10-07T11:01:10Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 35

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**Author:** ![Stiky](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/stiky/32/5692_2.png) [@Stiky](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Stiky)\
**Post date:** [January 11, 2010, 6:14pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/s13-rb26-swap/128615/35 "2010-01-11T18:14:09Z")

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> [@5/20 Nyspeed BBQ @ Chestnut Ridge \*\*PAYMENT INFO INSIDE\*\*](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/5-20-nyspeed-bbq-chestnut-ridge-payment-info-inside/24869/55):
>
> Chris, thanks for the interest! I will be tying the subframe and fender braces in a few places, details secret 😉 . As for a cage, I will not be running one, as they are very impractical for a daily driver, although I will be bracing key stress/flex points in the cabin. There will be a lot of work done that won’t be obvious at first glance, but will definitely aid in rigidity.  
> The ecu will be a flashed gtr unit; but plans are to replace it with a power fc. The diff will be either an s15 helical or a kaaz 1.5 way. I will be using my stock HICAS subframe with the kazama lock bar, with a bit of extra bracing. Rear axles will be staying stock for now (I know…), but very soon I will be picking up a set of NIR1 axles from the driveshaft shop… maybe even RA8001X2’s (google=bffl)? I have still yet to decide where I’m drawing my power line.  
> I will be going big single; and the motor is a post-92.5 motor, with the late model crank collar already in place.

Hey Bill,

I think I know what you have in mind in regards to tying the subframe and fenders into the chassis better. The one thing I was concerned about and that deterred me from doing the RB26 swap on my car was not only the money (about $7000-10000) but also chassis rigidity. The RB26 is a much, much bigger motor than the SR20 and you need a lot more bracing than is required with an SR. I know for a fact motor mounts will be an issue as I noticed even with McKinney mounts my RB20 still twisted my drive train a little on tip ins. I hope you are going the solid mount route as you will be much better off in the long run.

As for the ECU, a reflashed GTR ecu is a good idea and I know PUR Automotive are very good in regards to getting the most out of stock RBX ecu’s so you should look to them. If you don’t mind me asking, why are you going the PFC route and not an AEM full standalone unit as there is not that much difference in price if you do indeed go with the higher end PFC. Or is it because of the fact you want live streaming data as a trade off for the local tuners being able to tune it. (I’m a guy who prefers quality over features, and that is why I suggest the AEM as it’s pretty much a one time tune and well worth the $1800 imo).

I am happy you have sorted out a majority of your driveline, the Kaaz 1.5 way or the S15 Helical Diff will give you a much better feel of the car, and as for the half shafts, you should put the upgrades in before the car is even roadworthy as I know 240 half shafts aren’t the greatest. Also, I am glad to see you’re going big single on it… it will be a hell of a fun drive… and I am itching to see it especially since you will not be having the crank collar issue (although you should still upgrade you Oil Pump right now for safe of mind. ;))

Congrats on the swap choice and best of luck carrying it out! Car is looking good already.

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