# SR20 Complete Rebuilt Help Needed. **URL:** \ **Category:** SON240sx Automotive\ **Created:** [December 13, 2007, 8:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787 "2007-12-13T08:45:55Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Noga](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/f19dbf/32.png) [@Noga](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Noga)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 8:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/1 "2007-12-13T08:45:55Z")
Hey Over the next year I am going to be completly rebuilding a SR so that I can have a project to fill my time. I have already decided how to build the head but now I am at a lose. I am going to be using Tomei Solid Lifters Tomei 270/270 Solid Cams Brian Crower Valve Springs Brian Crower Ti Retainers In the head and im wondering if anyone has any experience building the bottem end? I dont have any experience in this so any help that you have would be good. Im looking for some information on good parts to use what have worked with other people. If anyone has any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated. HP Goals are 375-400. I just dont wanna slap a fat turbo on it I wanna completly redo the entire motor. Thanks in advance. If anyone could post some awsome setups you have seen work well that would be great. ---
**Author:** ![Alex\_Dee](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/alex_dee/32/5571_2.png) [@Alex\_Dee](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Alex_Dee)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 10:29am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/2 "2007-12-13T10:29:36Z")
yer gay ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 10:31am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/3 "2007-12-13T10:31:55Z")
stock block can handle that power… ---
**Author:** ![Happy240sx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/happy240sx/32/5515_2.png) [@Happy240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Happy240sx)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 10:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/4 "2007-12-13T10:56:02Z")
I would just look at a Mazworx block and copy it. ---
**Author:** ![sil8t](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/ea666f/32.png) [@sil8t](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/sil8t)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 11:21am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/5 "2007-12-13T11:21:02Z")
if one was to run these solid lifters are u aware u have to re shim them every 10k or so ---
**Author:** ![conky](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/41988e/32.png) [@conky](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/conky)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 2:10pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/6 "2007-12-13T14:10:53Z")
While its apart get it balanced…at least the pistons and rods. Blancing the crank isnt nearly as important because the spinning mass in centralized. One of my buddy’s tore apart a CA1.8 turbo and the stock pistons had a variation of as much as 15g!!! Put in rocker arm stoppers as well. And management. Dont expect 375-400hp daily driver power. You will need a big ass turbo so spool up will take forever. ---
**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 4:58pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/7 "2007-12-13T16:58:37Z")
350 is a good DD number apparently. A couple of the guys in Ottawa are running DDs at that, and they say it’s a joy. Very sexy builds too. ---
**Author:** ![imported\_Jared](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/imported_jared/32/5660_2.png) [@imported\_Jared](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/imported_Jared)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2007, 5:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/8 "2007-12-13T17:02:07Z")
350 hp seems like a kind of dumb power goal if your going to go through the work and money to rebuild the top and bottom ends…You could just do 300 on the stock engine. But anyway, for 400hp just rebuild the top end like you were going to and I would just leave the bottom end stock. Unless you have money to through around… ---
**Author:** ![Polar\_s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/polar_s13/32/5572_2.png) [@Polar\_s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Polar_s13)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 6:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/9 "2007-12-14T06:28:56Z")
I’am doing the same thing gettin the block rebuilt and everything to take 350hp, just cause stock block can take it does’nt mean you should’nt rebuild it and add parts to it, because now it can take the beating 100% and nothing will fu\*k up. I personally would rather spend a good amount of money and have a guarantee engine that will take a nice beating instead of being cheap and taking chances. ---
**Author:** ![KoukiS14](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/koukis14/32/5522_2.png) [@KoukiS14](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KoukiS14)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 7:45am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/10 "2007-12-14T07:45:07Z")
> [@Apparently i got 2nd place at nopi](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/apparently-i-got-2nd-place-at-nopi/15228/2): > > I personally would rather spend a good amount of money and have a guarantee engine that will take a nice beating instead of being cheap and taking chances. What guarantee do you have that your built engine isnt going to blow up? None. Just because you install some fancy pistons and rods doesnt mean its not going to blow up. I’ve seen more people go through built motors then guys running stock blocks. Why? Because of assembly. Motors from the factory are built with the proper tolerances and assembly. Very few shops can reproduce that. Then there’s the whole tuning aspect…shitty tuner and kaboom. There’s little to argue about the SR’s bottom end. Its incredibly strong and can take a serious beating at 300whp-350whp. ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 8:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/11 "2007-12-14T08:30:14Z")
i can say from experience it is not worth building the motor… especially if you are going to run 350whp or slightly less… i wasted $5k for literally less than nothing. i might as well have flushed it down the toilet. i would have been much much better off. get an AEM, get the car tuned and run 300 - 340whp on stock block… with teh money you save, put it into suspension… 300whp on shitty coilovers and stock brakes is fukking ghey. heck, KA-T’s with a decent suspension and brake set up and 250whp are way more fun than higher hp cars that have all the money in the motor ---
**Author:** ![Polar\_s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/polar_s13/32/5572_2.png) [@Polar\_s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Polar_s13)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 8:39am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/12 "2007-12-14T08:39:34Z")
But the top end should be rebuilt if 350hp is my goal? ---
**Author:** ![Hector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/43a26b/32.png) [@Hector](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hector)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 9:55am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/13 "2007-12-14T09:55:25Z")
not even dude , stock shit rocks ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 10:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/14 "2007-12-14T10:32:35Z")
Step 1 cams that dont require drivetrain work will get you there… ---
**Author:** ![Hurricane](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/e9bcb4/32.png) [@Hurricane](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Hurricane)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 10:44am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/15 "2007-12-14T10:44:32Z")
As stated above, rebuilding the block for anything under 400whp is a waste of money / time / effort. Even if at 400whp the block blows up after 20,000k for $1500 or less (much less in some cases) gets you a new long block… alot less time and money then rebuilding a block. Incase you still have the urge to flush money down the toilet please provide pictures! Now on the OTHER hand, if you are rebuilding it with a different bore / stroke in mind and getting it all balanced for sweet high RPM #'s then power to you and please provide some dyno #'s and videos of the completed project! Also… 400HP is very easily accomplished with out major turbo lag and is a BLAST on the street. Just ask ol’ Dano. ---
**Author:** ![Polar\_s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/polar_s13/32/5572_2.png) [@Polar\_s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Polar_s13)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 11:15am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/16 "2007-12-14T11:15:52Z")
I’am planning on boreing/stroking my redtop to I think its 2.3L from what i can recall. I shall put up dyno videos and etc when I’am done of course. I’am getting my car dynoed very soon at Sashas just to see what its at with the full 3" catback,cat,downpipe and boost controller tuned for 10psi.Anyone have a clue what my hp should be at? ---
**Author:** ![jammin1911](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/a9a28c/32.png) [@jammin1911](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/jammin1911)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 11:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/17 "2007-12-14T11:41:25Z")
I’m going to have to agree. If you’re going for 400whp, unless you plan on bumping redline to 9000+ don’t build the motor. waste of time ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 11:41am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/18 "2007-12-14T11:41:48Z")
225whp? maybe a bit more… there is no point in goign 2.3L… that is very expensive dude… There are 4 guys in this thread with SR20’s between 320 - 440whp who are giving you advice… take it. ---
**Author:** ![Polar\_s13](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/polar_s13/32/5572_2.png) [@Polar\_s13](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Polar_s13)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 1:16pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/19 "2007-12-14T13:16:00Z")
What would you guys reccomend than when it comes to increasing torque I heard the Jun stroker kit (expensive sh\*t) will increase my torque. I’am basically looking for 350hp and more torque than I have right now cause this low end torque nonsense is killing me!! ---
**Author:** ![DJPyro](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/278dde/32.png) [@DJPyro](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DJPyro)\ **Post date:** [December 14, 2007, 3:28pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/sr20-complete-rebuilt-help-needed/111787/20 "2007-12-14T15:28:39Z")
KA-T? But if you really insist on staying SR, consider the BC Stroker kit…