# stripped block...help! **URL:** \ **Category:** Canada Nissan Automotive\ **Created:** [May 30, 2007, 7:50pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592 "2007-05-30T19:50:51Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Birdman12](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/cab0a1/32.png) [@Birdman12](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Birdman12)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2007, 7:50pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/1 "2007-05-30T19:50:51Z")
so after putting in the T28 which is NOT i repeat NOT a direct fit from the T25, with everything back in after the first start up it starts squirting out oil. so i check and its leaking between the block and oil line fitting from the turbo… turns out the threads in the block are stripped! im very frustrated right now, ive tried using some teflon tape to seal it up, i tried more washers, still nothing. can someone help me please, some suggestions on what to do and if anyone else has had this problem let me know what you did to fix it. and yes i know most people will just say re tapp it, so thanks but that will be my last resort. please help. ---
**Author:** ![pcproa](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/c5a1d2/32.png) [@pcproa](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pcproa)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2007, 8:52pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/2 "2007-05-30T20:52:15Z")
Try tapping it. If you can’t get any good threads from tapping then you may have to drill it with a slightly larger bit, and tap it so you can use a slightly larger bolt. Be careful with how wide a bit you use and how deep you go. Make sure to remove every bit of metal shaving or that could mean bad bad things for the turbo. Oil in lines to the turbo from the block are crucial that you clear these metal shavings all out. Oil return lines are not so bad but you don’t want metal shavings floating around in the pan anyway. ---
**Author:** ![JDM-IMPORTS](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/d78d45/32.png) [@JDM-IMPORTS](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JDM-IMPORTS)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2007, 9:07pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/3 "2007-05-30T21:07:37Z")
If you need to re-thread metal… A product called Heli-coil works… available at Fastenal… ---
**Author:** ![pcproa](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/c5a1d2/32.png) [@pcproa](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pcproa)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2007, 9:42pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/4 "2007-05-30T21:42:56Z")
> [@someone help me w/ base safc settings ....](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/someone-help-me-w-base-safc-settings/1538/9): > > If you need to re-thread metal… A product called Heli-coil works… available at Fastenal… Yes yes… I’ve heard of this. This is supposed to be good ---
**Author:** ![kazzxtrismus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/3bc359/32.png) [@kazzxtrismus](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kazzxtrismus)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2007, 7:56am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/5 "2007-05-31T07:56:50Z")
helicoil is really only good in low pressure applications as it is USUALLY just a spring “LOOKING” do-dad made out of square wire. it is not really a spring tho it kinda looks like one. it should go in with a touch of loctite. the best meathod is the drill and tap… do this at very slow speeds…with a vacuum cleaner running just in case something tiny shears off. dont forget to vacuum that hole constantly. when tapping: stop tapping **_lots of times_** to get out the shavings. NO SLIVERS NO PROBLEMS. then run the motor _ **for like 30 seconds** _ to try to blow out whatever may have gotten in. what I dont understand is why you turbo guys dont run a pre-filter in line from the primary fitting… it would also give you a reservoir to draw from as well as act as a buffer for those pressure spikes. making life a little easier on those bearings and seals in the turbo. also adds a 1/4 litre of oil to your system. AND all the benefits of a dedicated filter. ---
**Author:** ![D\_Fresh](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/d_fresh/32/5542_2.png) [@D\_Fresh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/D_Fresh)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2007, 9:24am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/6 "2007-05-31T09:24:06Z")
Umm, isnt oil return the hose at the bottom?. if it is the banjo fitting your talking about then try to clean the threads with a tap, if not then your only other option is to heli-coil…if you do it right it will work ---
**Author:** ![pcproa](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/c5a1d2/32.png) [@pcproa](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/pcproa)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2007, 4:04pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/7 "2007-05-31T16:04:51Z")
> [@I just Got Robbed](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/i-just-got-robbed/1635/45): > > what I dont understand is why you turbo guys dont run a pre-filter in line from the primary fitting… > it would also give you a reservoir to draw from as well as act as a buffer for those pressure spikes. > making life a little easier on those bearings and seals in the turbo. > > also adds a 1/4 litre of oil to your system. > > AND all the benefits of a dedicated filter. Pre-filter cuts down the oil input line pressure to clean effectively. Secondly because the turbo is considered “internal”, the engine filter SHOULD be enough to keep the oil clean. If there was a pre-filter that would just be an additional filter for the owner to overlook at every oil change. And of course, a lot of manufacturers just want the engine to die so they can get more money to repair it or make another sale. Thats the major difference between cars now and cars 30+ years ago. ---
**Author:** ![kazzxtrismus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/3bc359/32.png) [@kazzxtrismus](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kazzxtrismus)\ **Post date:** [June 1, 2007, 5:55am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/stripped-block-help/133592/8 "2007-06-01T05:55:09Z")
how bout a self contained system?? should be only about $250~ to put one together from scratch 1/8" - 3/8" ss lines, JIC fittings, good tranny cooler, a capable pump, reservoir & filter …done! 4 litre dedicated oil system. no more wash down no more cross contamination no more nuthin. and it should only take about 2 hrs to put together.