# Summer '08 Setup

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/summer-08-setup/135098
**Category:** Canada Nissan Automotive
**Created:** [January 9, 2008, 9:43pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/summer-08-setup/135098 "2008-01-09T21:43:50Z")
**Posts on this page:** 1
**Showing post:** 21

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### Author: ![Fobwall](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/7ea924/32.png) [@Fobwall](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Fobwall)
#### Post date: [January 15, 2008, 5:07pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/summer-08-setup/135098/21 "2008-01-15T17:07:40Z")

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Dan, that setup sounds nice but I’d get rid of the Megan Rucas and just make sure that you have good bushings / non-bent tie rods in the rear. Don’t waste time going with RUCAS. Everyone on SON gets RUCAS for the sake of getting it, it’s all for show and tell @ car meets.

I’d just get the spl inner and outter tie rod ends for the front.

For the 180sx brakes, don’t get HP+ in the front and HPS in the rear. Get HP+ all around. When I had HP+ in the front, the brake bias to the front became really bad and I kept locking up my brakes. So HP+ all around would be better. Or even HPS all around would be good enough, I ran that for about 3 or 4 track days I believe. They held up fine. And if you don’t have an SR, the HPS will be good enough and it’s a lot cheaper too.

Don’t delete the brake booster. Tony (Sonic180sx) had 300zx brakes and I believe that his brake booster wasn’t working and it definitely made it a lot harder for him to brake. Varun also drove his car at the track and it was weird without the booster.

Stainless lines all around is a good idea. I’d also look into RBF 600 or ATE superblue.

Motorwise, it seems fine. You don’t really NEED the drive shaft but it’s nice to have. 🙂

The GTR seat is a really nice seat for spirited / street driving. It doesn’t hold up too well @ the track though, but it’s definitely a lot better than a stock s13 or s14 cloth seat.

Don’t plan too far ahead. Get a good setup first and then tweak it.

One more thing, get better wheels. Get either 16 or 17 inch wheels with a wideth of at least 8".

17 inch wheels have a lot more tire sizes so I’d recommend going with 17s. Also, try to run the same size tires all around. Staggered tire and wheel setups are more for show from what I have seen.

> [@Something New WRX + boosted LS1](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/something-new-wrx-boosted-ls1/2796/4):
>
> Hey guys, I wanted some input on my tentative setup for this coming summer for DD/Track (GRIP).
> 
> This is the primary setup for this coming summer. The summer after I have alot of plans aswell.
> 
> Suspension:  
> JIC SA-1 Coilovers  
> Megan RUCAs  
> SPL Inner Tie rods + SPL ends  
> Proper alignment with tweaked OE specs
> 
> Brakes:  
> 180sx front calipers / Brembo slotted rotors / Hawk HP+ pads  
> Stock rear calipers / Brembo blank rotors / Hawk HPS pads  
> Stainless lines all around  
> Brake booster delete (Manual brakes)
> 
> Drivetrain:  
> 5 speed swap (obviously)  
> Exedy Stage 1 clutch disk  
> OE resurfaced flywheel  
> DSShop 1 piece Steel driveshaft  
> JDM S13 VLSD w/ beefy 5 bolt axles  
> Wicked JDM unknown short shifter
> 
> Tires:  
> Hankook Venture Rss 205/50/15 on a 15x7 wheel
> 
> Interior:  
> GTR Driver’s seat  
> Some kind of hub and wheel
> 
> **_Future Plans_** :  
> 7-9 point roll cage  
> Full or near full front and rear multi-link (i have the ability for test and tune thankfully)  
> CA18DET Motorset  
> Rear subframe/spindle/hub restoration + Aluminum subframe bushings  
> Full Energy Suspension bushing kit  
> Nismo front subframe  
> Nismo motor and transmission mounts  
> Nismo steering rack bushings  
> Custom manual steering rack  
> Cusco Type-RS 1way LSD

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