# wheel bearing dimensions

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562
**Category:** PittSpeed Automotive
**Created:** [August 26, 2009, 12:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562 "2009-08-26T12:44:19Z")
**Posts on this page:** 16
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![hondahp4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/bbe5ce/32.png) [@hondahp4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/hondahp4)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 12:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/1 "2009-08-26T12:44:19Z")

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Well its the time to change all the ball joints in my 01 dodge ram 2500 diesel…ouch…:owned:

from everything i’ve read, the wheel beaings/hubs are difficult to get out of the knuckle without ruining the bearing (from beating on them). my plan is to torch off the ball joints and take off the whole knuckle and then press the hub out of the knuckle. i have a friend that has access to a cnc plasma, so he’s going to make me a circle of 3/8" plate steel to use as a press plate. does anybody know the diameter of the hubs where it fits inside the knuckle so he can make me the plate?

also, any other pointers or techniques to do this would be appreciated…thanx

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### Author: ![Pewter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pewter/32/5936_2.png) [@Pewter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Pewter)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 1:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/2 "2009-08-26T13:33:18Z")

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I really dont think that will work!

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### Author: ![Shaggy](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/shaggy/32/5945_2.png) [@Shaggy](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Shaggy)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 2:37pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/3 "2009-08-26T14:37:39Z")

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Whoa !

You must be a Engineer

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### Author: ![hondahp4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/bbe5ce/32.png) [@hondahp4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/hondahp4)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 3:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/4 "2009-08-26T15:11:43Z")

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hahah…most definitely an engineer!!!

why dont you think it will work? i figure its worth a try (and free!!) rather than ruin a $300 hub

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### Author: ![Pewter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pewter/32/5936_2.png) [@Pewter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Pewter)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 3:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/5 "2009-08-26T15:29:10Z")

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the way the hubs built,dont think it will set right in a press!

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### Author: ![Sinner6.0L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sinner6.0l/32/6016_2.png) [@Sinner6.0L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sinner6.0L)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 6:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/6 "2009-08-26T18:20:03Z")

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damn near anything can be set in a press.

one of the best things for pressing out hubs are impact axle nut sockets. one time i pressed a 35mm socket in the wheel bearing of a focus and got it stuck. that mark on the socket is a pretty funny story. the guys in the shop got a kick out of that

remember when you’re pressing the hub back into the new wheel bearing to support the inner race of that new bearing. you’ll ruin it otherwise

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### Author: ![bgblockelcamino](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bgblockelcamino/32/5997_2.png) [@bgblockelcamino](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bgblockelcamino)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 7:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/7 "2009-08-26T19:19:50Z")

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i use sockets also(also had one stuck that has bearing marks on it too). have been using peices of exhaust tubing for the bearing to pass through(to keep hub off the press).

also look at the hub itself once you free it from bearing. if worn enough it may need replaced. just had to replace one today so that is why i am thinkig of it.

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### Author: ![Dominator](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/a4c791/32.png) [@Dominator](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Dominator)
#### Post date: [August 26, 2009, 9:27pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/8 "2009-08-26T21:27:36Z")

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> [@16-0 or 15-1](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/16-0-or-15-1/40938/24):
>
> Whoa ! You must be a Engineer

X eleventy billion

Take out the bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Put the rear most one back in half way. With the steering wheel straigh ahead find a shallow socket and an extension that will bind against the frame rail. Fire the truck up and turn the wheel (binding the socket and extension against the frame rail and the protruding retension bolt.) Apply some good steering imput pressure. hammer the fuck out of the knuckle and the vibrations will loosen things up. Voila, wheel bearing on the ground.

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### Author: ![Pewter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/pewter/32/5936_2.png) [@Pewter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Pewter)
#### Post date: [August 27, 2009, 4:51am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/9 "2009-08-27T04:51:40Z")

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> [@01GPGT"](#):
>
> damn near anything can be set in a press.
> 
> one of the best things for pressing out hubs are impact axle nut sockets. one time i pressed a 35mm socket in the wheel bearing of a focus and got it stuck. that mark on the socket is a pretty funny story. the guys in the shop got a kick out of that
> 
> remember when you’re pressing the hub back into the new wheel bearing to support the inner race of that new bearing. you’ll ruin it otherwise

have u ever tried to put a hub of a front rear in a press(i talking sawlid axle type?)

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### Author: ![hondahp4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/bbe5ce/32.png) [@hondahp4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/hondahp4)
#### Post date: [August 27, 2009, 6:23am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/10 "2009-08-27T06:23:53Z")

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hey thanks a million for the input, i’m gonna try a few different techniques to see what works best and i’ll update later on. hopefully these work, and i dont end up replacing a $300 hub…haha…it’ll probably be a week or so till i get to it anyway.

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### Author: ![Sinner6.0L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sinner6.0l/32/6016_2.png) [@Sinner6.0L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sinner6.0L)
#### Post date: [August 28, 2009, 3:50pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/11 "2009-08-28T15:50:11Z")

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> [@Dead Pixels on a DLP - Anyone Have This Problem?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/dead-pixels-on-a-dlp-anyone-have-this-problem/40796/35):
>
> have u ever tried to put a hub of a front rear in a press(i talking sawlid axle type?)

no but i seen a guy work on a car once

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### Author: ![fshowcars](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fshowcars/32/5937_2.png) [@fshowcars](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/fshowcars)
#### Post date: [September 1, 2009, 12:59pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/12 "2009-09-01T12:59:05Z")

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> [@16-0 or 15-1](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/16-0-or-15-1/40938/39):
>
> X eleventy billion
> 
> Take out the bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Put the rear most one back in half way. With the steering wheel straigh ahead find a shallow socket and an extension that will bind against the frame rail. Fire the truck up and turn the wheel (binding the socket and extension against the frame rail and the protruding retension bolt.) Apply some good steering imput pressure. hammer the fuck out of the knuckle and the vibrations will loosen things up. Voila, wheel bearing on the ground.

sounds neat… good idea

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### Author: ![hondahp4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/bbe5ce/32.png) [@hondahp4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/hondahp4)
#### Post date: [September 10, 2009, 6:18am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/13 "2009-09-10T06:18:32Z")

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just an fyi update (ive been out of town on business for a while so i just got to working on my truck)…

those hubs were stuck beyond belief. i beat them with a 30lb sledge and still wouldnt budge. i beat them from behind with a bolt in the hole, beat on the spindle, heated the knuckle…everything…no go…

i did find a little technique though. i dont know if this will work on other vehicles, but i would think it would work on most 60 fronts. i torched off the upper balljoint shaft and unbolted the lower (note - ive heard of balljoints exploding while torching them so its probably a good idea to take out the zerk). with the upper torched off (shorter) you can get the knuckle off and the axle out of the center of the hub. its a little bit harder to press out the upper with no shaft, but better than ruining a $300 hub. when you put it back together you put just the lower balljoint in and put the knuckle back on without the upper balljoint. once you line up the axle and lower balljoint, then put the upper balljoint in and beat it in with a big socket.

it takes a little creative line-up procedures to get the axle back in the hub, because the knuckle has to be at extreme angles to line up with the lower balljoint. it helps to have an extra set of hands there with a BFH to help line things up and tap in the axle.

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### Author: ![Sinner6.0L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sinner6.0l/32/6016_2.png) [@Sinner6.0L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sinner6.0L)
#### Post date: [September 11, 2009, 3:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/14 "2009-09-11T15:33:38Z")

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[http://www.otctools.com/products/front\_hub\_puller\_for\_4wd\_vehicles\_7901](http://www.otctools.com/products/front_hub_puller_for_4wd_vehicles_7901)

would that work?

i know f-250s are a pain in the dick to get the front wheel bearing/hub out

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### Author: ![hondahp4](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/bbe5ce/32.png) [@hondahp4](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/hondahp4)
#### Post date: [September 14, 2009, 10:42am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/15 "2009-09-14T10:42:06Z")

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that might work if the hub wasn’t stuck too bad. I beat on the hub with a 30lb sledge as hard as i could. I’m not so sure a 10lb slide hammer would work if it wont come out with a 30lb sledge and some heat. there needs to be some sort of puller like a ball joint press that will push against the knuckle and hub and force it straight out…something that you can get an impact on it and push it from the center/outsides. It probably wouldn’t be too terribly hard to make with some creative engineering, and a welder…maybe

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### Author: ![Sinner6.0L](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sinner6.0l/32/6016_2.png) [@Sinner6.0L](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sinner6.0L)
#### Post date: [September 14, 2009, 7:32pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheel-bearing-dimensions/203562/16 "2009-09-14T19:32:18Z")

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i haven’t tried it yet. i’ll let you know how it goes but i assure you a sledge can’t be the best way. even if you’re replacing the hub thats a big fucking effort considering all of the force isn’t driving the hub out but to the side also

250s you can’t work them back and forth because the assembly is held on with studs, theres no room for them to work out. it needs to be a straight shot
