# Wheels shaking?

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015
**Category:** SON240sx Automotive
**Created:** [June 16, 2006, 9:03am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015 "2006-06-16T09:03:11Z")
**Posts on this page:** 20
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 9:03am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/1 "2006-06-16T09:03:11Z")

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When i m going 70 plus and i start slowing down the wheels start shaking when i press the break, otherwise if u just down shift and let it slow down theirs no problem, i remember seeing this on the forums couple months back but can’t seem to find it. Can someone please give me a clue as to what the problem might be.

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### Author: ![snowboard\_240sx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/snowboard_240sx/32/5519_2.png) [@snowboard\_240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/snowboard_240sx)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 9:04am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/2 "2006-06-16T09:04:42Z")

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ur rotors are gone, time for some new brakes

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 9:06am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/3 "2006-06-16T09:06:31Z")

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seriously man, the rotors can cause the car to shake that bad?  
i thought it was hicas or something, shoot. That sucks.

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### Author: ![Terrible\_1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/terrible_1/32/5562_2.png) [@Terrible\_1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Terrible_1)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 9:09am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/4 "2006-06-16T09:09:39Z")

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> [@snowboard\_240sx](#):
>
> ur rotors are gone, time for some new brakes

^^^ yes this used to happen in my old 323 it is rotors for sure

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 9:12am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/5 "2006-06-16T09:12:08Z")

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Thanks, guys.

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### Author: ![bing](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bing/32/7211_2.png) [@bing](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bing)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 12:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/6 "2006-06-16T12:46:55Z")

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if it happens when you are on the brakes then your rotors are warped.

if would be a bigger problem if it stopped when you werent on the brakes because then it could be suspension / tires (flatspots) / balancing of tires / homosexuality

consider yourself lucky that new rotors will fix that shit

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### Author: ![alesserfate](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/f6c823/32.png) [@alesserfate](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/alesserfate)
#### Post date: [June 16, 2006, 11:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/7 "2006-06-16T23:30:33Z")

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> [@bing](#):
>
> homosexuality
> 
> consider yourself lucky that new rotors will fix that shit

thank god

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 18, 2006, 8:59am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/8 "2006-06-18T08:59:38Z")

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i m going to have to check once i switch up all the rotors, and check it the wheeels still shake i believe the they actually did stop when let off the brakes. It’d better not be the problem or the guy that sold me this car is a  
hardcore rippoff.

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### Author: ![Terrible\_1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/terrible_1/32/5562_2.png) [@Terrible\_1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Terrible_1)
#### Post date: [June 18, 2006, 2:26pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/9 "2006-06-18T14:26:27Z")

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just make sure your not hard on the new rotors or they will warp to just take it easy for a bit till they break in nice

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### Author: ![DirrtyDevo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/dirrtydevo/32/5547_2.png) [@DirrtyDevo](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/DirrtyDevo)
#### Post date: [June 18, 2006, 3:56pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/10 "2006-06-18T15:56:27Z")

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Mine do the same when im softly on the brakes…when u push harder it goes away but its very minimal wheel shake. My dads new TL from the dealer did this Farrrr worse than my car. pretty easy fix.

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:19pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/11 "2006-06-19T14:19:04Z")

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yea thas true, when it push hard it does go away. how do you fix that though, just go easy on the new rotors, because they still shake with the new rotors.

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### Author: ![JDMHATER](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/5f9b8f/32.png) [@JDMHATER](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JDMHATER)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:27pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/12 "2006-06-19T14:27:40Z")

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New rotors shouldn’t shake!  
Unless they are of poor quality and have excessive runout right out of the box.  
Rotor warpage is generally due to poor intsall. ie: hubs that still have chunks of rust them, wheels not torqued propely or just plain abuse/neglect.  
Most never take the extra 10-15min to properly sand/clean the hubs before putting on new rotors, hence they warp prematurely.

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### Author: ![JDMHATER](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/5f9b8f/32.png) [@JDMHATER](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/JDMHATER)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:28pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/13 "2006-06-19T14:28:30Z")

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There more to a proper brake job than just slapping on new parts.  
It’s all about the prep work.

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### Author: ![snowboard\_240sx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/snowboard_240sx/32/5519_2.png) [@snowboard\_240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/snowboard_240sx)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:29pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/14 "2006-06-19T14:29:35Z")

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i would break them in…give them about 500 km’s before any real hard braking

where did u get the rotors from? did u get cheap oe replacements? or name brand performance kind?

i would say if u bought cheap ones that they will warp fairly easy

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:30pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/15 "2006-06-19T14:30:10Z")

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interesting i didn’t no that, but yeah i actually did sand it down due to me hating rust and being a prefectionist but i think the problem isn’t the rotors its something to do with the toe on the back tires being so bad, gonna see if fixing that helps it out.

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:32pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/16 "2006-06-19T14:32:13Z")

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yea i got cheaps ones because i was gonna switch to 300zx brakes later on, like a month or two but i have those same rotors on my jeep and they run great.

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### Author: ![snowboard\_240sx](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/snowboard_240sx/32/5519_2.png) [@snowboard\_240sx](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/snowboard_240sx)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 2:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/17 "2006-06-19T14:46:16Z")

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so u did a whole brake job pads and rotors?

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### Author: ![Sasha\_SG](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/sasha_sg/32/5477_2.png) [@Sasha\_SG](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Sasha_SG)
#### Post date: [June 19, 2006, 3:02pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/18 "2006-06-19T15:02:39Z")

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there is a hell of a lot of misinformation in this thread

#1 it could also be your TC rods. Under hard braking there is a lot of flex in that shit stock bushing so there is vibration

#2 if it is only your rotors get new ones, cleaning hte hub isnt a bad idea but it usually isn’t a problem and wouldnt cause the rotors to warp.

#3 rotors dont - or RARELY - warp, pad deposit is left on the rotor when it overheats and that causes the warped feeling.

#4 you do not need 500km to break in brakes. Bed the pads (3-4 hard decelerations from 90km/h - 20km/h WITHOUT coming to a full stop) - this is done on brand new brake pads, to “groove” them into the rotors. let them fully cool off and then they are ready to go. if you arent going to be racing its no huge deal

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### Author: ![Singh](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/43a26b/32.png) [@Singh](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Singh)
#### Post date: [June 22, 2006, 2:07pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/19 "2006-06-22T14:07:46Z")

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already did the sanding, the rotors were new so theres no problem there and i already broke them in with the hard braking thing you were talking about i picked that up on a car show on spike haha. I’ll have to look in to the bushings, i was going to get the front ones replaced i guess i 'll have to get the back ones checked out too. Thanks

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### Author: ![Terrible\_1](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/terrible_1/32/5562_2.png) [@Terrible\_1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Terrible_1)
#### Post date: [June 22, 2006, 10:05pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wheels-shaking/97015/20 "2006-06-22T22:05:29Z")

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> [@Sasha (Turbo)](#):
>
> there is a hell of a lot of misinformation in this thread
> 
> #1 it could also be your TC rods. Under hard braking there is a lot of flex in that shit stock bushing so there is vibration
> 
> #2 if it is only your rotors get new ones, cleaning hte hub isnt a bad idea but it usually isn’t a problem and wouldnt cause the rotors to warp.
> 
> #3 rotors dont - or RARELY - warp, pad deposit is left on the rotor when it overheats and that causes the warped feeling.
> 
> #4 you do not need 500km to break in brakes. Bed the pads (3-4 hard decelerations from 90km/h - 20km/h WITHOUT coming to a full stop) - this is done on brand new brake pads, to “groove” them into the rotors. let them fully cool off and then they are ready to go. if you arent going to be racing its no huge deal

good to know, i was just going on what i thought it could possibly be, but then again i am still learning lol
