# Why is mah car twitchy

**URL:** https://forums.speedlife.net/t/why-is-mah-car-twitchy/253735
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive
**Created:** [August 5, 2010, 2:07pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/why-is-mah-car-twitchy/253735 "2010-08-05T14:07:57Z")
**Posts on this page:** 1
**Showing post:** 32

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### Author: ![kramerbuccs24](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/kramerbuccs24/32/6397_2.png) [@kramerbuccs24](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/kramerbuccs24)
#### Post date: [August 7, 2010, 4:23pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/why-is-mah-car-twitchy/253735/32 "2010-08-07T16:23:19Z")

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> [@8/25/07 Daryll's Car Audio summer sound off](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/8-25-07-darylls-car-audio-summer-sound-off/34150/2):
>
> That’s not bump steer, that’s a bad alignment.
> 
> Bump = suspension compression, not a bump in the road. Cornering load causes suspension compression which changes toe (steer) PER corner.
> 
> **If the car is twitchy, usually your alignment is screwed up, bushings are worn, or you put on some dumb ass tuner suspension and drive around all hellaflushpoke or all 3**.
> 
> Rarely do the rear ends of modern cars (insert 1st gen MR2 joke here) exhibit true bump steer when lowered.
> 
> **Krammer more likely has worn bushings that are allowing the suspension geom to change under load**. Early 2nd gen MR2s had this from the factory, so I wouldnt rule it out, and his is like 30 years old.

More detailed suspension component list:  
-4 brand new ball joints  
-2 brand new rear tie rods  
-2 brand new front outer tie rod ends (inner and boots are fine)  
-Polyurethane steering rack, sway bar (if/when I put it back on), control arm, trailing arm, etc. etc. etc. bushings (no rubber bushings in the car, they’re all new polyurethane either this year or last year)  
-Whiteline “G4” coilovers with front camber plates \<–the only cheap parts on the car  
-Front tie rod flip kit (flips the front outer tie rod to go “up” through the hub rather than “down”, you can see this in the front suspension pic)  
-Front and rear roll center adjusters (installed these via recommendation of autoXers on the MR2 forums, they “raise” the whole hub up from the lower control arms, you can kind of see them in between the ball joints and hubs front and rear)

According to your list, it looks like I bought the dumb ass tuner suspension :thumbup

> [@Bleeding?](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/bleeding/31075/68):
>
> He doesn’t care about handling, he just wants to be HELLAFlush yo.

Riiiiight, if I did that I wouldn’t have dropped money on the above parts, I would have just cut my springs.

> [@FS: 1995 TURBO HATCH](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-1995-turbo-hatch/34103/31):
>
> “Some truly awesomely stupidly badly incorrect information in this thread” \<-----To say the least
> 
> The car is a mid engined car, twitcy is in it’s nature. MR2’s, nsx’s, 986/987. Hell even the ultima is a bit washy at elevated speeds. We won’t even get into the realm of actual MERWD race cars.
> 
> One needs to step back as stated and explain in greater detail where the car is twitchy. IE straight line stability, high speed maneuvering, corner entry, under braking, etc, etc, etc.
> 
> Before you go screwing around with factory suspension geometry, you need to know where your car is acting up(see above) and know why. Then attack the relevant areas. Be forewarned…you are diving into a world of complication and car REALLY screw shit up if you don’t take it one step at a time.
> 
> We’ll save the techno mumbo jumbo for if/when you come back with some better characteristic information on the cars handling.
> 
> Carry on.

The next time I post in this thread it will have details as specific as I can get in regards to the driving characteristics of the car, as of now all I really think of it as is “bumpsteer” which isn’t going to help any third party figure out what the problem is or how to fix it. Thanks for setting aside the time to point me in the right direction, Jclark and boxersix :thumbup

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