# wiring amp/painting a spoiler **URL:** \ **Category:** Shift518 Automotive\ **Created:** [April 4, 2011, 6:40am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682 "2011-04-04T06:40:25Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![zREX05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/a698b9/32.png) [@zREX05](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zREX05)\ **Post date:** [April 4, 2011, 7:49pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/21 "2011-04-04T19:49:45Z")
so the remote wire i have running from power to amp is blue, what color wire am i splicing that with, since the blue wire on the harness is not for remote…why cant this shit b easier???:wtf ---
**Author:** ![bwe45](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/77aa72/32.png) [@bwe45](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bwe45)\ **Post date:** [April 4, 2011, 8:35pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/22 "2011-04-04T20:35:23Z")
> [@Fuzzy pics of new(ish) whip](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fuzzy-pics-of-new-ish-whip/40868/12): > > so the remote wire i have running from power to amp is blue, what color wire am i splicing that with, since the blue wire on the harness is not for remote…why cant this shit b easier???:wtf Its always best to splice it with your power wire on the harness. IF there is no dedicated remote line coming off the head unit then just snag a positive lead into the HU or get a switch and tap another positive wire elsewhere(this is what I have done since I go through headunits like crazy) ---
**Author:** ![zREX05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/a698b9/32.png) [@zREX05](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zREX05)\ **Post date:** [April 5, 2011, 2:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/23 "2011-04-05T02:43:41Z")
> [@Former Pakistan Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto assassinated](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/former-pakistan-prime-minister-benazir-bhutto-assassinated/40832/31): > > Its always best to splice it with your power wire on the harness. IF there is no dedicated remote line coming off the head unit then just snag a positive lead into the HU or get a switch and tap another positive wire elsewhere(this is what I have done since I go through headunits like crazy) done, thx for your help, it was the ground, for now i am grounding my system through my rear strut arm lol, kinda ghetto but itll work for a few days until i figure out where im relocating it to… sounds nice tho… on another note, when its not loud, it produces a faint humming noise, which progressively gets louder as i speed up, someone told me to insulate the remote wire bc the rca wires run from the head unit to the amp right next to each other and might be picking up the tone of my exhaust and amplifying it… any thoughts? :retardclap :wtf ---
**Author:** ![KrazyKid](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/krazykid/32/6371_2.png) [@KrazyKid](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/KrazyKid)\ **Post date:** [April 5, 2011, 6:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/24 "2011-04-05T06:36:50Z")
Its not the exhaust its the alternator. Clean the terminals, especially the ground on the battery. Also never run the RCA wires next to the big ass power cable, or any +DC power cable it picks out electrical noise if the RCA wires are cheap jumpoffs. Good RCA’s are very well shielded and some even have a ground loop spiraled around the insulation that you ground to the frame too. And check the ground still on the strut bar. I assume the strut bar was just bolted to the car also. So right now the ground loop is focused on the 20ga sheet metal and a little nut welded on the back side, where you bolted the strut bar to. While it might turn it on, it might now be as clean as it should be to carry the current. still your best bet is to sand off some paint on the floor of the trunk, zip a sheet metal screw through it, and shoot all the bare metal and terminal with some battery terminal spray to keep from rusting or corroding. ---
**Author:** ![zREX05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/a698b9/32.png) [@zREX05](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zREX05)\ **Post date:** [April 5, 2011, 10:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/25 "2011-04-05T10:33:09Z")
> [@Awesome Time Waster](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/awesome-time-waster/40890/5): > > Its not the exhaust its the alternator. Clean the terminals, especially the ground on the battery. > > Also never run the RCA wires next to the big ass power cable, or any +DC power cable it picks out electrical noise if the RCA wires are cheap jumpoffs. Good RCA’s are very well shielded and some even have a ground loop spiraled around the insulation that you ground to the frame too. And check the ground still on the strut bar. I assume the strut bar was just bolted to the car also. So right now the ground loop is focused on the 20ga sheet metal and a little nut welded on the back side, where you bolted the strut bar to. While it might turn it on, it might now be as clean as it should be to carry the current. still your best bet is to sand off some paint on the floor of the trunk, zip a sheet metal screw through it, and shoot all the bare metal and terminal with some battery terminal spray to keep from rusting or corroding. thx KK ill try that…:number1 ---
**Author:** ![votblindub](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/votblindub/32/6280_2.png) [@votblindub](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/votblindub)\ **Post date:** [April 9, 2011, 4:44pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/26 "2011-04-09T16:44:53Z")
in for wiring updates ---
**Author:** ![zREX05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/a698b9/32.png) [@zREX05](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zREX05)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2011, 3:20pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/27 "2011-04-11T15:20:27Z")
it was the ground wire…i had to find a spot that was clear from anything important and drive a screw through the trunk bed…then i had to sand the area around it…works like a charm now ---
**Author:** ![offroadzj](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/offroadzj/32/6428_2.png) [@offroadzj](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/offroadzj)\ **Post date:** [April 11, 2011, 3:51pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/28 "2011-04-11T15:51:42Z")
Seat belt bolts are the BEST grounding locations. Make sure to get all the paint off. What size wiring are you using? What size amp is it? What size fuse is in the power line? And finally, how did you route the power wire into the engine bay? Although I have done my fair share of driving a sheet metal screw through the metal, they will loosen up over time unless you are going through some thick metal. Seat belt bolts usually have a lot of surface area for grounding and don’t come loose. [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682.md?page=1)