# wiring amp/painting a spoiler

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682>\
**Category:** Shift518 Automotive\
**Created:** [April 4, 2011, 6:40am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682 "2011-04-04T06:40:25Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 25

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**Author:** ![zREX05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/z/a698b9/32.png) [@zREX05](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/zREX05)\
**Post date:** [April 5, 2011, 10:33am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wiring-amp-painting-a-spoiler/257682/25 "2011-04-05T10:33:09Z")

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> [@Awesome Time Waster](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/awesome-time-waster/40890/5):
>
> Its not the exhaust its the alternator. Clean the terminals, especially the ground on the battery.
> 
> Also never run the RCA wires next to the big ass power cable, or any +DC power cable it picks out electrical noise if the RCA wires are cheap jumpoffs. Good RCA’s are very well shielded and some even have a ground loop spiraled around the insulation that you ground to the frame too. And check the ground still on the strut bar. I assume the strut bar was just bolted to the car also. So right now the ground loop is focused on the 20ga sheet metal and a little nut welded on the back side, where you bolted the strut bar to. While it might turn it on, it might now be as clean as it should be to carry the current. still your best bet is to sand off some paint on the floor of the trunk, zip a sheet metal screw through it, and shoot all the bare metal and terminal with some battery terminal spray to keep from rusting or corroding.

thx KK ill try that…:number1

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