# Would You Buy a New Car? **URL:** \ **Category:** NYSpeed Automotive\ **Created:** [December 11, 2009, 10:21am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140 "2009-12-11T10:21:22Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 9
**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 11:13am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/161 "2009-12-28T11:13:34Z")
> [@Fry](#): > > Yep, used is usually the way to go. I’m not arguing that, or at least never intended to. Once in a while it makes sense to buy new, or at least I can find a way to justify new. :lol: > > EDIT: Northtown will give you a loaner if your car is going to be in for a while. It’s not like they’ll do it for an oil change. The situation with my dad’s truck was very memorable to me because I was the one who took it to West Herr and freaked out on them. The ABS light was on and the rear brakes were smoked at ~5K miles. I went in and talked to them about it. The 03 silverado has the rear disc brakes on the z71 that blow goat nuts. I had to argue with the manager about how I realize that brakes are a wear item, but that he needs to realize they shouldn’t need to be changed every 5K miles. Long story short I was there for over 4 hours before they started doing work. The truck needed two wheel bearings and all new rear brakes. The job took that day and 1/2 of the following day and we didn’t get a loaner. My dad paid ~28K for his truck in 2003 and they didn’t give him any car, he took my truck ugh. Our Colorado had leaked water into the cab of the truck when my wife washed it one time. Weird right? The dealer here in Texas had the truck for 5 days, which they found a cracked cowl and 3 missing push pins to be the problem. They replaced that and the third brake light because there was condensation in it. They also washed the truck. Once again no loaner. I didn’t really care though because I have a few cars and my wife doesn’t have to go to work so she was home bare foot and cooking. 😛 I really want my next daily car to be a 60s/70s muscle car with a newer drive train. My goal is a 1969 Chevelle with a 4.8/5.3/6.0 truck motor and either the new 6 speed auto or a t-56. I’m not sure if I’d put the M3 away or sell it to my wife’s brother. ---
**Author:** ![walter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/walter/32/7202_2.png) [@walter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/walter)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 12:14pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/162 "2009-12-28T12:14:12Z")
> [@ultradriver10000](#): > > Or you could man up and buy a real car. > > [http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-SUBARU-LEGACY-GT-SPEC-B-2-5L-TURBO-6MT-NO-RESERVE\_W0QQitemZ130355039364QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS\_Cars\_Trucks?hash=item1e59c40c84](http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-SUBARU-LEGACY-GT-SPEC-B-2-5L-TURBO-6MT-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ130355039364QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item1e59c40c84) > > I’ve had less problems with my M3 from milage 85K-110K then my dad has had with his silverado from 0-25K miles. > > What dealer do you guys use that give you a free loaner car? When my Colorado went in for work they didn’t give me shit, same case for my father’s Silverado. > > I’ll continue to buy used, because I’m never in a hurry to buy a car and can ALWAYS find great deals. > > I’ve owned almost 40 cars in my life now, never lost a dime on one, never lost a job because my cars weren’t reliable. Oh Hai gaiz. My luxury sports car is more reliable than my domestic truck. What do you mean when I buy something other than a Kia I get a loaner? :cjerk: Apples and Oranges much? ---
**Author:** ![ultradriver10000](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/ultradriver10000/32/7397_2.png) [@ultradriver10000](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/ultradriver10000)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 12:38pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/163 "2009-12-28T12:38:17Z")
> [@walter](#): > > Oh Hai gaiz. My luxury sports car is more reliable than my domestic truck. What do you mean when I buy something other than a Kia I get a loaner? :cjerk: > > Apples and Oranges much? I don’t understand why a sub 20K Legacy or a Mazda would get a loaner over two trucks that sticker much higher then both of those cars. I only compared the M3 to a Silverado to compare used car reliability to new car reliability, even though they are vastly different. My dad’s Silverado had many problems out of the box new. Has hasn’t had many since then, but it was in the shop many times when it was new. My mom’s Hyundai Santa Fe has been awesome though. 0-20K miles with 0 problems. My dad’s Chevy S-10 he purchased new never had any problem until I started running n20 on it and I blew the rear end at ~115K miles. I’d say even new cars are hit or miss. I know the odds are you’ll have a good one, but there is still the chance that your car can be in the shop often even when new. I’m not lazy and I have free time, so that is why I have used cars. I’m actually putting in a E46 window regulator this evening for $150. Why? Well because I can. Otherwise I wouldn’t be making money this evening, I’d be spending it or watching movies or some other lazy shit thing lol. Looks like GM, Nissan, Dodge, Ford, Honda, Subaru, VW and Toyota all pretty much follow the following. This is why they mostly use shuttles I suppose, and it is up to each dealer to provide a car if so desired. > The Toyota Transportation Assistance Policy (TTAP) provides a loaner car or alternative transportation (i.e., busfare, cab fare) to the vehicle owner (excluding fleet agency-owned vehicles) if a warrantable condition requires the > customer’s vehicle to be kept overnight at the dealership for one or more of the following reasons: > • The required warranty repairs will take longer than one day to complete. > • The warrantable condition requires extensive diagnosis. > • The parts required for the warrantable condition are not available, and the vehicle is inoperative or unsafe to operate. It looks like Pontiac (did), Mazda, BMW, Infinity, M/B and Lexus all offer loaner cars. ---
**Author:** ![walter](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/walter/32/7202_2.png) [@walter](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/walter)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 12:50pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/164 "2009-12-28T12:50:50Z")
:picard: ---
**Author:** ![91MR2](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/91mr2/32/7217_2.png) [@91MR2](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/91MR2)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 2:11pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/165 "2009-12-28T14:11:37Z")
So far, I haven’t, don’t think I would… ---
**Author:** ![Fry](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/fry/32/7284_2.png) [@Fry](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Fry)\ **Post date:** [December 28, 2009, 9:40pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140/166 "2009-12-28T21:40:51Z")
> [@Fry](#): > > Bump. This is the only used legacy with a stick and under 30k miles within 100 miles of here. > > [http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car\_id=266057783&dealer\_id=917166&car\_year=2008&rdm=1262014756396&lastStartYear=1981&model=LEGACY&num\_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start\_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body\_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search\_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search\_lang=en&showZipError=y&make=SUB&keywords\_display=&color=&page\_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min\_price=&drive=&default\_sort=priceDESC&seller\_type=b&max\_mileage=30000&style\_flag=1&sort\_type=priceDESC&address=14150&advanced=y&end\_year=2011&doors=&transmission=Manual&max\_price=19000&cardist=4&standard=false](http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=266057783&dealer_id=917166&car_year=2008&rdm=1262014756396&lastStartYear=1981&model=LEGACY&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=y&make=SUB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=30000&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=14150&advanced=y&end_year=2011&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=19000&cardist=4&standard=false) > Basil is asking $19k for it. I’ve already been quoted under $21k for a brand new 2.5i Limited with the cold weather package and I haven’t even gotten into playing dealers off each other. So that’s a $3k difference if I get the used car down to $18k. But I’ll write off $1836 in taxes on the new one thanks to the stimulus bill. So that’s a $1164 dollar difference. Plus the interest rate new is 4.9 and used is 5.9, so if I get the used one down to $18k then I pay $81 dollars less interest over 4 years. > > So it will cost me $1083 to buy a newer car with zero miles and no previous owners. Hell that’s not even a premium for the new car, I’ll gladly pay $1k to have a 2.5 year newer car. > > So there you have it. It is cheaper for me to buy a brand new legacy than a 2 year old Legacy with 23k miles. Just to keep the record straight, I made a bit of a mistake. It’s a tax deduction not a tax credit. So I don’t get the full amount of taxes back, I get back the full amount of taxes times my tax rate aka it just reduces my taxable income. So rather than $1800 back I’ll be getting like $1800 x 0.3 = $600. So it’s costing me $2283 for a 2.5 year newer car with 23k fewer miles than the one at Basil I’m using for my example. Still well worth it. Plus the 2010 is a redesign that actually improved on the safety of the previous car. Now the crash test ratings are absolutely perfect. 99.9% odds that I never benefit from this, but should my wife ever get hurt in a wreck I’d never forgive myself for cheaping out a couple thousand. Gotta decide what’s important and where the point of diminishing return is for your own dollar and priorities. Can’t put a price on safety, but she didn’t get the spoiler she wanted. 😛 [Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/would-you-buy-a-new-car/77140.md?page=8)